I think it's time to start building some issue-specific FAQs - let's start with brakes.

[O.W. Kenobi]

Then we can move on to suspension, exhaust, etc.

Anyway, post up some questions and answers, and I'll incorporate them into a single post. Maybe LI-S4 can link to it in his n00b guide or we can just bookmark it. Better yet, we can tag it with all sorts of buzzwords to that people SingTFA find it.

Anyway, here's a few to start:

Q: My breaks aren't working.
A: One of two things: (1) broken keyboard or (2) limited education. It's spelled "brake," not "break." If you spell it wrong on the forum, you will be crucified.

Q: Sorry. A bit hard on me, aren't you? Anyway, my BRAKES aren't working. They don't stop well enough anymore.
A: You may need to re-bed your pads. That's usually a good first step in any brake diagnosis, as it surprisingly fixes many problems.

Q: My brakes shudder a lot when I use them. Are my rotors warped?
A: It might just be uneven pad transfer. Again, try re-bedding the pads. If you want more info on the subject, check this writeup by Stoptech.

Q: Thanks. How do I bed my pads, and why do I need to do it?
A: Stoptech has a nice discussion about it here.

Q: What's a BBK?
A: A "big brake kit."

Q: Are my stock calipers fixed or floating?
A: Floating.

Q: How many pistons are my stock brakes front and rear?
A: Two pistons up front, one piston in the rear.

Q: My trip computer is displaying "(0)". Besides making me think of a vagina, what does this mean?
A: It means that your brake pad sensor has been tripped.

Q: Do I have brake pad sensors on the rear?
A: No, only on the front.

Q: What happens to the brake pad sensor when I install a BBK or use pads that don't have pad sensor wires?
A: Unless you short the wires, the vagina light will be on all the time.

Q: How do I short the pad sensor wires?
A: (1) clip the connector off and solder the wires together, (2) clip the wire from an old pad, couple the connectors, and solder the wires, (3) shove a single u-shaped piece of wire in the terminals of the connector. #2 and 3 allow you to keep your stock wiring intact should you ever want to use the sensors again. Check this tech article for more information

Q: Why do I need a BBK?
A: (1) You're all show, no go, and you want to make your car look good, (2) you drive aggressively and fade the stock brakes, or (3) you want increased pad selection.

Q: Is a BBK install a DIY job?
A: It can be. It helps to observe one first, but it's pretty straightforward. Just realize that if you screw up, you likely won't know it until you really need to stop, at which point you might wish that you paid a professional. Most BBKs come with detailed install instructions, but go here for a brief overview of what's involved.

Q: Will my car stop shorter with a BBK?
A: If you're using comparable pads in both setups, probably not. BBKs are all about fade resistance and pad selection (and bling for some people). When compared to the stock brakes, stopping distances are usually longer by a foot or two. However, under repeated applications, the stock brakes will fade quickly, increasing stopping distance. Buy a BBK because you need repeated stopping consistency. A BBK will resist fading longer. However, a BBK with street pads will still fade, so the proper pads for the intended use are important. Don't worry if you fade your BBK street pads on a bedding run - that's an abnormal use for street pads, and they'll work fine on the street under street conditions.

Q: What are the best pads?
A: For what type of use? Street or track? No single pad is going to work well on the street and track. What's quiet on the street and works when cold won't hold up to increased heat on the track. Track pads are extremely noisy and abrasive on the street, but once they warm up, they stop very well. Plan to have a set of street pads for the street, and a set of track pads for the track.

Q: How do I change the pads in my stock brakes?
A: The fronts are extremely easy. Morgan's writeup. The rears are a bit more difficult, but both are DIY jobs. It's for an A8, and the only difference is the shape of the spring tensioners on the pads. On the S4 rear pads, the springs are shaped like a V and fit against the caliper (pushing the pad towards the hub) - look at the stock pads before you remove them, and it will make sense.

Q: How do I cycle the ABS pump with a VAG when flushing/bleeding brake fluid?
A: [03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 002
[Go!]

Q: I installed a BBK or I am running non-Audi pads. I no longer have pads that use the sensor, and I don't want to rig up any jumpers. How do I get rid of the vagina light using VAG?

Note - this may not work on some model years (2000 and 2001). In that case, you may have to cut & solder the wires or jump the terminals on the sensor harness.

A: [Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Recode - 07]
Write down the existing coding for future reference.
Enter 5-digit code from below
[Do It!]

Look at the first two digits in the coding. Add the values for the options together to get the correct coding.

00 - No available equipment
+01 - Brakepad wear sensor warning active
+02 - Seatbelt warning active
+04 - Washer fluid level warning active (may only work with pre-2000 models)
+16 - Navigation System (non-USA models)

Q: How do I bleed my brakes?
A: Two good references here: Stoptech's white paper and From a 1.8T, but the process is the same. FYI, the S4 uses an 11mm bleed fitting.

Q: What are some of the common BBKs that fit under stock wheels?
A: Stoptech, STaSIS (Alcon), ECS stage 3 (Porsche Big Red)

Q: Where can I read more about brake technology?
A: This is a good start.

Q: What is brake bias?
A: Stoptech has a nice writeup on the subject.

Q: What are the various biases of my brake options?
A: ECS created a nice chart here.

Q: What are there so many different choices of brake fluid, and which one should I use in my S4?
A: Review Stoptech's brake fluid discussion. Many S4 owners who track their cars opt for Motul RBF600. Otherwise, any DOT5.1 fluid should be fine. Some people have reported problems with ATE Super Blue in the B5 S4.

Q: What do I need to know about stainless steel brake lines?
A: Stoptech has a good writeup here.

Q: Do I need to upgrade my rear brakes?
A: That depends. If you just drive on the street, the OEM rears (and fronts, to be honest) are usually fine. If you upgrade only the rears, you risk moving the brake bias rearward, which is not good if you are starting with a balanced system. Most people consider upgrading the rears only after upgrading the fronts. Some people still just go for some slotted rotors in the rear and call it a day. There are many options to choose from, including Stoptech, ECS, and STaSIS for size upgrades, and there are several vendors of slotted OEM style rear rotors, such as ECS and DBA.

[Captain Matt, I be]

cause i dont know how

on a sidenote, are the AP racing brakes in that writeup still available? i havent heard anything about them recently.

[85-4kq-girl]

Here's a post with pics that Sharon posted a while back. I used this when I changed my fronts the first time. Maybe I'll try to take pics of my process when I change out my pads in 2 weeks for a track event.

--morgan

• Pics of changing stock front pads:

[O.W. Kenobi]

I'll be happy to include it. Good idea.

It's pretty easy, BTW.

[O.W. Kenobi]

Specific pics of opening the spring clip, retracting the pistons, etc. If not, and if you want to create one yourself, go for it. Just be sure to put the pics somewhere where they won't be disturbed, or (better yet) have the AW staff formalize it as a writeup. I was surprised not to find it in there already.

[85-4kq-girl]

Looked high and low trying to find one before I did it on mine. I'll take pics, do a formal write up, and either host it on s4girl.com or give it to AW to put in the tech section.

--morgan

['Nova more S4]

Quick tips:

-If you can, put the car up on 4 stands, or lift the rears, then the fronts.

- Always work from the furthest caliper to the closest to the master cylinder. On the S4, this is Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear, Passenger Front, Drivers Front.

- If you have a power bleeder, fill that with a couple bottles of your preferred high temp brake fluid. This will allow you to flush / bleed the system by yourself.
- Never store open bottles of brake fluid. Use it then safely dispose of any remaining fluid.
- NEVER Touch your paint with brake fluid on your hands! It's bad, m'kay?
- Make sure you fill the reservoir no more than the fill line as brake fluid will expand / contract somewhat with temperature.
- Handy stuff to have on hand: Turkey Baster (to remove excess fluid from reservoir), 10mm (iirc) open box wrench, clear hose to drain fluid into bottle.

Steps:

- Fill bleeder with your new fluid. For a full flush, it's helpful to alternate Motul (yellow) with a blue fluid (I think AP Racing, or something).
- Pressurize the bleeder up to around 10 PSI.
- Start in the pass. rear, open the drain valve with the clear tube attached. The fluid comes out the top of the "screw". The screw is covered by a black rubber cap.
- open the valve, keep draining until you see no air bubbles coming from the caliper for a bleed, or until you see the different color fluid for a full flush
- If you don't have a power bleeder, you will need someone to pump the brakes. You slowly depress the pedal and then open the valve. When the pedal reaches the end of the travel, close the valve before removing pressure from the pedal. Repeat a ton of times, depending on how bad they are.
- repeat the above working closer to the master cylinder as described above.
- drain any excess fluid from the reservoir, close it.
- remember to toss any remaining fluid. Never reuse an open bottle.

[Captain Matt, I be]

• http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel24.shtml

[O.W. Kenobi]

[S4Rye]