Cam tensioner seal leak and vacuum booster failure summary post.

JimR · 02-13-2005, 08:59 AM

o Why?: I saw a need for a consolidation of available information on this issue, so that newbies asking about it could be referred to one post that would answer most questions with links to appropriate posts. And I had a pile of links on the topic bookmarked.

o What?: Cam tensioner seal (and sometimes valve cover seal) oil leaks on 30V 2.8 and 2.7t engines are fairly common, and have been determined to be primarily caused by the failure of a device called the "vacuum booster" (official ETKA name). This part is also called the "suck pump" or the "breather pump valve".

The root-cause of this cam seal failure mode was first identified by Jon/2.7tDallas (who is not bitter). Jon's conversation at a Dallas dealership was confirmed to me by a long-time Audi mechanic, who's also a personal friend, at my Atlanta dealership. Here is a nicely-done view of the guts of one of these vacuum boosters, so you engineer-types can really see what's happening.

There also appears to be a green check valve, that's in the vicinity of the vacuum booster, that should also be replaced.

o Which?: Need some help on this one. I'm thinking the answer is all 30V 2.8L A6s, and early model 2.7ts. At some point, I think the 2.7ts got a different vacuum system design, that eliminated the vacuum booster. Comments on this welcome. Really, comments on anything here are welcome, and I will edit this post to reflect them as appropriate.

o Where?: See here for where this thing lives on a 2.8. I believe it's in the same vicinity on a 2.7t. Here is a really good pic of just the vacuum booster and the check valve in place in the car.

You can also see the green check valve, that should also be replaced, in several of the pics there.</a>

o What?: Part numbers for the vacuum booster and the check valve are here. You'll also need a pile of small hose clamps. Five, in fact. You can either buy the Audi crimp-type ones (1x N 905 618 01; 4x N 102 582 01; make sure you have a crimp tool), or just use standand screw-type hose clamps, as many have done.

o Who?: Here is a horror story about how this problem can manifest itself. A key point is that once your seals have blown, they remain blown once the vacuum booster is replaced, and just leak more slowly. Here is another report of that.

o What else?: If you get to the point where the cam seals leak
here's some advice on replacement. Here's another thread worth looking at on the subject.

o When?: I'm thinking the vacuum booster and check valve should be replaced every 30k-40k miles. Anyone want to make a case for shorter/longer?

o How?: It now appears Audi has a TB on this issue. See this thread.

PepeA6 · 02-13-2005, 10:35 AM

Backordering,VIN and all that.Dealer says that they simply cannot stock the part and replace it when we get in for regular maintenance.I know now that is smart to replace them at the intervals suggested by JimR or at TB& seals replacement.

por911 · 02-13-2005, 10:57 AM

I replaced ours on our 30v , early on at 52k. When I removed the hose assembly that is attached to it, the valve was filled with debris even though the car had religous M1 oil changes every 3-4k, "scary".

not.bitter · 02-13-2005, 11:11 AM

with mobile 1 every 5k miles from 5k

Eric 2.7 · 02-13-2005, 04:41 PM

My original one caused the leaks in its 4th winter so to be safe, I'm going to cut that time in half.

OOOOya · 02-13-2005, 05:13 PM

SteveFJ60 · 12-20-2005, 08:10 PM

Thanks for the detailed post--very helpful.
I had the "breather valve" on my 98 A4 30v replaced today.

mustbeaudi · 02-27-2006, 05:41 PM

StuffedShark · 04-16-2009, 12:07 PM

Hello
First of all, i'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. As i don't know much about Audi's, this thread completely made me understand the problem on my 98 Audi A6q 2.8. Very good job.

I have a question. I have the same oil burning smell and i can see the smoke coming out of the passenger side. I just ordered the valve cover gasket kit from blaufergnugen with the cam adjuster seals also... yesterday, my dad (since he knows about german cars) and i replaced the valve cover gasket on the passenger side, but didn't do the cam adjuster seal, didn't have the tool 3366, and thought the valve cover gasket repair just might do it. After we put all back together it still smells and still smokes on the pass side. I read it can take a couple of days to burn all that oil on the exhaust pipe. But now i'm thinking we have to do the cam adjuster seal also, since i read about the suck pump failure. I just saw this thread... i little bit too late. I'm gonna have to replace that one too.

What should i do now? On the driver's side, we didn't start working yet. Should i get the tool 3366 and start doing everything again left and then right side? and then replace the suck pump? Or just the valve cover gaskets might do it? the left side was leaking kinda bad... I just don't want the oil smoke and smell anymore... i just bought the car. Is there any risk of fire?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

AUDIctivo · 04-16-2009, 12:51 PM

I bought the part a long time ago, but I never got to find the location. The pic of the 2.7t posted here is a '00 so I think my 2002 is different.. It is a tiptronic...any input?

02-13-2005, 08:59 AM	#1
JimR Member Account #: 1018 Join Date: Mar 2000 Posts: 46,942	Cam tensioner seal leak and vacuum booster failure summary post. o Why?: I saw a need for a consolidation of available information on this issue, so that newbies asking about it could be referred to one post that would answer most questions with links to appropriate posts. And I had a pile of links on the topic bookmarked. o What?: Cam tensioner seal (and sometimes valve cover seal) oil leaks on 30V 2.8 and 2.7t engines are fairly common, and have been determined to be primarily caused by the failure of a device called the "vacuum booster" (official ETKA name). This part is also called the "suck pump" or the "breather pump valve". The root-cause of this cam seal failure mode was first identified by Jon/2.7tDallas (who is not bitter). Jon's conversation at a Dallas dealership was confirmed to me by a long-time Audi mechanic, who's also a personal friend, at my Atlanta dealership. Here is a nicely-done view of the guts of one of these vacuum boosters, so you engineer-types can really see what's happening. There also appears to be a green check valve, that's in the vicinity of the vacuum booster, that should also be replaced. o Which?: Need some help on this one. I'm thinking the answer is all 30V 2.8L A6s, and early model 2.7ts. At some point, I think the 2.7ts got a different vacuum system design, that eliminated the vacuum booster. Comments on this welcome. Really, comments on anything here are welcome, and I will edit this post to reflect them as appropriate. o Where?: See here for where this thing lives on a 2.8. I believe it's in the same vicinity on a 2.7t. Here is a really good pic of just the vacuum booster and the check valve in place in the car. You can also see the green check valve, that should also be replaced, in several of the pics there.</a> o What?: Part numbers for the vacuum booster and the check valve are here. You'll also need a pile of small hose clamps. Five, in fact. You can either buy the Audi crimp-type ones (1x N 905 618 01; 4x N 102 582 01; make sure you have a crimp tool), or just use standand screw-type hose clamps, as many have done. o Who?: Here is a horror story about how this problem can manifest itself. A key point is that once your seals have blown, they remain blown once the vacuum booster is replaced, and just leak more slowly. Here is another report of that. o What else?: If you get to the point where the cam seals leak here's some advice on replacement. Here's another thread worth looking at on the subject. o When?: I'm thinking the vacuum booster and check valve should be replaced every 30k-40k miles. Anyone want to make a case for shorter/longer? o How?: It now appears Audi has a TB on this issue. See this thread. __________________ JimR '07 A3 3.2q Lava Gray '99 A8 4.2q Pearl White '99 A6 Avant 2.8q Silver (My old car, son now drives) '06 Boxster S Guards Red (wife's wheels) Support the troops "Over the years, I have come to understand a critical difference between the world of fear and the world of freedom. In the former, the primary challenge is finding the inner strength to confront evil. In the latter, the primary challenge is finding the moral clarity to see evil."

02-13-2005, 10:35 AM	#2
PepeA6 Junior Member Account #: 54346 Join Date: Apr 2003 Posts: 774	Good work! Takes the dealer about two weeks to get the parts. Backordering,VIN and all that.Dealer says that they simply cannot stock the part and replace it when we get in for regular maintenance.I know now that is smart to replace them at the intervals suggested by JimR or at TB& seals replacement. __________________

02-13-2005, 10:57 AM	#3
por911 Junior Member Account #: 53556 Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,892	Nice write-up JimR.... I replaced ours on our 30v , early on at 52k. When I removed the hose assembly that is attached to it, the valve was filled with debris even though the car had religous M1 oil changes every 3-4k, "scary".

02-13-2005, 11:11 AM	#4
not.bitter New Member Account #: 83840 Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 141	My 2003 a6 2.7t is leaking from the drivers VC and CC at 35k with mobile 1 every 5k miles from 5k

02-13-2005, 04:41 PM	#5
Eric 2.7 Member Account #: 61325 Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 2,808	I decided to go with a 2 year replacement interval which pretty much matches your 30k - 40k. My original one caused the leaks in its 4th winter so to be safe, I'm going to cut that time in half. __________________ Eric 2000 A6 2.7T DIY Mule: Full Timing Belt Replacement, Cam Seals & Cam Tensioner Gaskets, Engine Mounts (TWICE! Thanks Hamburg-Technic/ECS), O2 Sensors, 2ndary Coolant Pump, '03 OEM Sport Suspension, H-Sport Sway Bars, Control Arms, Tie Rod Ends, CV Joint Boots & All Kinds of Maintenance Stuff. Retired: 1996 A4 2.8 2wd 12v 1987 4000CS Quattro 1980 4000 2door (not even an "S")

02-13-2005, 05:13 PM	#6
OOOOya Junior Member Account #: 74843 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 2,027	THANK YOU! __________________ present: 2002 S6 Avant (his) 1999 A6 Avant (hers) past: green 1999 A6 Avant - total loss

12-20-2005, 08:10 PM	#7
SteveFJ60 New Member Account #: 101853 Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 1	Re: Cam tensioner seal leak and vacuum booster failure summary post. Thanks for the detailed post--very helpful. I had the "breather valve" on my 98 A4 30v replaced today.

02-27-2006, 05:41 PM	#8
mustbeaudi AudiWorld Senior Member Account #: 63325 Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 4,100	Thanks much! __________________ mustbeaudi's rings: 07 Lava A3 2.0t DSG Prem OpenSky Tech Audio SOLD - 01 allroad (hers) - to a new member of the Audi fold. SOLD - 02 S6 (his) - now with a fellow AW'er in CO. mustbeaudi AT yahoo DOT

04-16-2009, 12:07 PM	#9
StuffedShark New Member Account #: 160145 Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 4	Hello First of all, i'd like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. As i don't know much about Audi's, this thread completely made me understand the problem on my 98 Audi A6q 2.8. Very good job. I have a question. I have the same oil burning smell and i can see the smoke coming out of the passenger side. I just ordered the valve cover gasket kit from blaufergnugen with the cam adjuster seals also... yesterday, my dad (since he knows about german cars) and i replaced the valve cover gasket on the passenger side, but didn't do the cam adjuster seal, didn't have the tool 3366, and thought the valve cover gasket repair just might do it. After we put all back together it still smells and still smokes on the pass side. I read it can take a couple of days to burn all that oil on the exhaust pipe. But now i'm thinking we have to do the cam adjuster seal also, since i read about the suck pump failure. I just saw this thread... i little bit too late. I'm gonna have to replace that one too. What should i do now? On the driver's side, we didn't start working yet. Should i get the tool 3366 and start doing everything again left and then right side? and then replace the suck pump? Or just the valve cover gaskets might do it? the left side was leaking kinda bad... I just don't want the oil smoke and smell anymore... i just bought the car. Is there any risk of fire? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

04-16-2009, 12:51 PM	#10
AUDIctivo Audiworld Junior Member Account #: 114870 Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 540	Does anyone have a pic of the suction pump on a 2002 A6 2.7T. I bought the part a long time ago, but I never got to find the location. The pic of the 2.7t posted here is a '00 so I think my 2002 is different.. It is a tiptronic...any input? __________________

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