4.2 V8 Chip?
08-30-2006, 02:33 PM
#3
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Here's some more....
This was what I posted a little further down...
I/E/Dp is Intake, Exhaust, and down pipes it's usually the first step in performing your basic performance upgrades; (BPU) from there is a chip. APR is about $500 you want to call them to find a local distro.
Once you've done all the above you can focus on doing the light weight mods..I've removed the spare tire and bought a super light odyssey battery. Since I had to do engine work I'm doing the head work. But I would recommend some light wheels, suspension, and brakes which for me personally I have experienced to be the biggest bang for my buck, BUT they cost the BIGGEST BUCKS. Something like a 17x7 Velox PG-Rev10 that are 11.5lbs per wheel, with lighter suspension and brakes make a huge difference in ALL depts. acceleration, handling, stopping and of course weight.
Timing is handled by the chip, now the cam was the only item I changed my mind on because after installing the cam the ECU would need to be tuned and you're opening a whole new can of worms. better to say on the path than blaze a new one. (none of the chip manuf. have a program for the cam) The piston and valve paths "interfere" with one another (known are an "interference head") so having a cam that had a longer lift or duration may cause a catastrophic engine failure when the chip advances the timing.
I'm having trouble finding the lighter clutch flywheel...when I got it over to the shop the stock unit was completly different from what they thought. So i'm exploring other options. as for a rear limited diff...I would probably not do anything with it unless you've done everything else (including a supercharger) and you're really tracking the car and you can get any speed out of the corners.
I/E/Dp is Intake, Exhaust, and down pipes it's usually the first step in performing your basic performance upgrades; (BPU) from there is a chip. APR is about $500 you want to call them to find a local distro.
Once you've done all the above you can focus on doing the light weight mods..I've removed the spare tire and bought a super light odyssey battery. Since I had to do engine work I'm doing the head work. But I would recommend some light wheels, suspension, and brakes which for me personally I have experienced to be the biggest bang for my buck, BUT they cost the BIGGEST BUCKS. Something like a 17x7 Velox PG-Rev10 that are 11.5lbs per wheel, with lighter suspension and brakes make a huge difference in ALL depts. acceleration, handling, stopping and of course weight.
Timing is handled by the chip, now the cam was the only item I changed my mind on because after installing the cam the ECU would need to be tuned and you're opening a whole new can of worms. better to say on the path than blaze a new one. (none of the chip manuf. have a program for the cam) The piston and valve paths "interfere" with one another (known are an "interference head") so having a cam that had a longer lift or duration may cause a catastrophic engine failure when the chip advances the timing.
I'm having trouble finding the lighter clutch flywheel...when I got it over to the shop the stock unit was completly different from what they thought. So i'm exploring other options. as for a rear limited diff...I would probably not do anything with it unless you've done everything else (including a supercharger) and you're really tracking the car and you can get any speed out of the corners.
12-14-2006, 02:19 PM
#5
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I was under the impression the stock flywheel is lightweight......
I would talk to the STASiS guys about the rear LSD. They seem to believe they make a difference even on the street.
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