Any of you guys have experience with this?
#1
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Any of you guys have experience with this?
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/23372/02-16-06_1614.jpg"></center><p>This bolt will not come out for anything! The middle one on the strut mount.
I tried everything, sprayed it with Valvoline something-or-other that "outperforms WD-40"...more like DOUSED IT, and the bolt will not come loose at all. Used pipes for more "leverage/strength" but it will not come loose!
I'm even thinking about somehow cutting the nut, bolt etc. but the middle part of the nut is the strut no?
The rubber part under it is worn out and I have the part to replace it, I just can't seem to get it off...grrrrrr
thanks guys, maybe you can help me
I tried everything, sprayed it with Valvoline something-or-other that "outperforms WD-40"...more like DOUSED IT, and the bolt will not come loose at all. Used pipes for more "leverage/strength" but it will not come loose!
I'm even thinking about somehow cutting the nut, bolt etc. but the middle part of the nut is the strut no?
The rubber part under it is worn out and I have the part to replace it, I just can't seem to get it off...grrrrrr
thanks guys, maybe you can help me
#3
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it moves with the strut shaft....
I have the allen key (with a pipe next to it) going one way, and a wrench on the nut (also with a pipe on it) going the other...
Nothing...
Nothing...
#4
Re: it moves with the strut shaft....
Is that the only bolt keeping the spring on. I haven't done much work yet on my 200 suspension but i know with my 240sx that bolt was to the cap keeping the spring on the strut. If not try loosening the other three bolts. And go from there.
#5
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Birdman's correct: air powered impact wrench. (paging Tom Serrago)
You may need a fairly large one. (Mine's abt 700 lb-ft and works on this nut.)
Tom Serrago and I both replaced ours last year. Tom had problems because a Sears mechanic had munged his Allen socket. (I *think* that he used a strap wrench of some sort to hold the strut insert shaft still while we attemped to remove the nut.) Mine was still intact, and I was able to just use hand tools (I think) to remove the nut.
It's worth it. Replacing worn out / torn / perished strut mounts will dramatically improve the car's ride.
Be sure to mark the position of the mount first, so that you can position the new mount identically.
Tom Serrago and I both replaced ours last year. Tom had problems because a Sears mechanic had munged his Allen socket. (I *think* that he used a strap wrench of some sort to hold the strut insert shaft still while we attemped to remove the nut.) Mine was still intact, and I was able to just use hand tools (I think) to remove the nut.
It's worth it. Replacing worn out / torn / perished strut mounts will dramatically improve the car's ride.
Be sure to mark the position of the mount first, so that you can position the new mount identically.
#6
Re: Any of you guys have experience with this?
I would do: impact airgun first if I would have one, otherwise I would take out shock together with shock mount and try to remove nut on the bench.
Do you use proper socket (22mm Special Tube Socket)?
Do you use proper socket (22mm Special Tube Socket)?
#7
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Sounds like Allen socket may be stripped
The Allen socket IS the top of the strut shaft. If your Allen key is firmly planted in it then the strut shaft cannot turn.
As I mentioned, Tom Serrago's Allen sockets were munged by a hamfisted Sears mechanic who'd installed new struts. The shaft rotated despite the Allen key.
As I mentioned, Tom Serrago's Allen sockets were munged by a hamfisted Sears mechanic who'd installed new struts. The shaft rotated despite the Allen key.
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#8
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drill it out
you are replacing he strut right? the nut is frozen to the shaft? i assume the hex is worn to the point where the allen wrench just makes the hole rounder. use a drill and go right into the middle of the strut where the hex hole is. Keep graduating to larger drilles until you at the nut thread. the nut may start to go around, but hold it with a wrench.
there is a special tool to turn the nut because it is recessed down in there. i have always usd a very offset box end. i've never seen one in sears of other tool places. mine came from my grandfather who passes away years ago. i think it is a 13/16 or other american size and it workd perfectly.
oh, and if you are actually using an "L" shaped allen wrench, get a good set of socket drive hexes. in this case and when ever you remove any hex socket bolt on the car make damn sure the tool is all the way into the hex socket. clean out any crap and rust in the hole and whack in in tight.
there is a special tool to turn the nut because it is recessed down in there. i have always usd a very offset box end. i've never seen one in sears of other tool places. mine came from my grandfather who passes away years ago. i think it is a 13/16 or other american size and it workd perfectly.
oh, and if you are actually using an "L" shaped allen wrench, get a good set of socket drive hexes. in this case and when ever you remove any hex socket bolt on the car make damn sure the tool is all the way into the hex socket. clean out any crap and rust in the hole and whack in in tight.
#10
Re: it moves with the strut shaft....
i'd try hitting it with an air gun. that has worked for me in the past.
but you're still gonna have a helluva time with reinstalling it if that allen is stripped!
but you're still gonna have a helluva time with reinstalling it if that allen is stripped!