wibs

My brake pads are rubbing against the rotor after my new brake job. I'm not sure if I tightened the carrier bolts unevenly or the caliper bolts or what but my outside (closest to you/outside of the car) pads (and maybe the insight too, I can't see it) are rubbing against the rotor without any braking force being applied right now. Infact, there was even some rubbing before I pumped the brakes to release the retracted piston.

Help? What should I be expecting/not expecting at this point? The lug nuts are all back on the car and wheel is in place again.

wibs

*maybe the inside

wibs

Between when I tested the wheel (rotating) and when I posted that, four or five hours last night passed. I just went out there and the wheel turns more freely now but rubs a little still. Is this normal? The old pads were worn down to nubs basically so it's probably been when the car came off the assembly line since there were pads "this" full on the car.

wibs

Since my last post, I completed the front passenger side and was able to turn the wheel with no friction whatsoever. I'm a bit confused though as I recall some rubbing on the other wheel even before I released the piston.

Perhaps when I add more brake fluid and release the other piston it'll rub as well until I get the car out and the pats properly seated (with the force of the piston+car)

Just Me

it really hard to follow exactly what's happening. My advice is as follows. New pads can grb a little. if they generate excess heat, you'll know after a mile or so. Then stop. Else, a little drag cna be ok.

Open it up, and look carefully. Is everythign straight? Can you push the pistons back easily? You wont hurt anythign doign it 1/3 inch.

G

ChipB

I wonder if perhaps one of the pads isn't properly seated in the caliper, and so isn't sitting flat? Just a thought.

wibs

Hey Chip, you're basically my neighbor, I live a mile from Naperville in Woodridge.

So... After two weeks and a lot of money and time, I got my car out of the garage today and bedded in/burnished the rotors. I did 10 stops from 30-35 (well, down to 10 mph or so) then I did 3 from ~50 or so... I thought I heard something dragging on the front passenger wheelwell but I couldn't tell. I did feel some pull to the right at first but near the end I didn't feel the pull anymore or as much. I pulled into my garage and looked at the wheels and my front passenger brake was smoking (barely could see it but it was for sure). My front right wheel turned freely when it was on jacks.

I have other issues related to the stopping power (lack of resistance) but I'll put that in the appropriate thread, please see that thread for that issue. If the problems are related somehow please let me know.

ChipB

Wibs: Couple of thoughts/questions for you:

1. You have after-market rotors - how thick are they, and how does that thickness compare to stock?
2. What pads are you running? How do they compare to stock?
3. Do you have stock calipers?
4. You say the driver's side wheel turns freely when up on jacks - what about the passenger side?
5. What is your car? If Quattro, I wouldn't expect any wheel to turn "freely"!
6. It may be toime to take the car to a pro. I would say any project that results in yor wheel smoking definetely qualifies for someone with experience to take a look.

Good luck!

wibs

I'll have to check on the sizes compared to factory

1. Yes, I have aftermarket slotted rotors from frozenrotors.
2. Hawk HPS

3. Yes
4. Both front wheels turned freely (or at least turned without rubbing on the pads).
5. Quattro (my tagline)
6. I had already planned to do this once I got it out of the garage and verfied sufficiently I could drive more than five miles without brake failure. My buddy does a lot of work with CPT for his audi's/S5 so I'll prob take it over there and have them look at it.

I was just chatting with my neighbor's son who flew in today for the Holiday and he said his car had similar symptoms but over a couple days it went back to normal (though I didn't ask what type of car or if he knew the mechanics behind why it didn't happen sooner).

audi777tom

Dragging rotors would lead me to suspect a bad caliper or a sticking caliper. If there is a nick in the cylinder bore it can cause the piston to drag or not release. This would be bad, as you would need a new piston/caliper assembly. The more likely culprit is that the carrier is not adjusting correctly on the guide bolts. There are two bolts that have a long smooth length that the caliper will self adjust on. I would suggest getting two new bolts and replacing the old ones. These can get grooved over time an not allow the proper amount of float, causing a dragging rotor. Also, get some high temperature grease and lube them up during installation. If one side is bad, you might want to consider replacing the ones on the other side as well.