want to buy S6 , like to get some tips and advice
#1
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want to buy S6 , like to get some tips and advice
Hi
i went to test drive the new C63s , they have policy not to offer test drives for AMG cars
then i test the BMW M4 , nice car but the suspension very stiff for everyday.
i tried the S6 , i think it's a great car.
what options do you guys think important to add?
lease prices you got?
thanks
i went to test drive the new C63s , they have policy not to offer test drives for AMG cars
then i test the BMW M4 , nice car but the suspension very stiff for everyday.
i tried the S6 , i think it's a great car.
what options do you guys think important to add?
lease prices you got?
thanks
#2
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All just personal preference really. Most S6s that I came across when I was shopping around had the following options, at least here in SoCal: Sport Pkg, Drivers Assist Pkg, Black Optic Pkg, and Bose Surround sound (included in the Prestige). If you want the HUD, get the Prestige. The Prestige has some other nice little features but nothing major, at least for me. I do miss the interior LED lighting. I do not like that big ugly HUD unit on the dash so the Prestige was out for me. I guess I'm a little weird that way. HUDs are only useful on jets but cool to have on cars too, I guess.
There are options if you live in extreme temperature regions. You can play around with the Audi website and/or visit a local dealership to checkout the different options.
As for me I absolutely had to have the Sport Pkg, Black Optic Pkg, Drivers Assist Pkg, and LED headlights. The Bose is worthless IMO. The stock stereo sounds better to my ears but then, I'm half deaf. I can't help you with the lease question since I just buy my cars. Have fun. The S6 rocks!
There are options if you live in extreme temperature regions. You can play around with the Audi website and/or visit a local dealership to checkout the different options.
As for me I absolutely had to have the Sport Pkg, Black Optic Pkg, Drivers Assist Pkg, and LED headlights. The Bose is worthless IMO. The stock stereo sounds better to my ears but then, I'm half deaf. I can't help you with the lease question since I just buy my cars. Have fun. The S6 rocks!
#3
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I agree with Luv2sleep, Mostly. At one point I was looking at an S6 without the Sports Package. I don't know what I was thinking. I'd say the most important options are:
1.) Sport Package.
2.) Drivers Assistance package.
3.) Black Optic package
4.) Cold Weather package (I live in the North East) Note: Deletes Flat bottom Steering
A la carte' options:
1.) LED Headlights (I thought this gives you interior LED lighting?)
2.) BOSE Surround Sound system (B & O is very expensive, and like 10% better)
3.) Sunshades
4.) Carbon Fiber Inlays (it's so dam cool)
Small Adds:
1.) Cargo Net
2.) The S6 specific All weather mats
3.) Wheel guard lock kit
I've heard on a lot of forums that the Contour Seating is like the most comfortable seating set up. But I have to admit the Audi Recaro-like sport seats and very comfortable, and that Diamond-Comp Stitching looks so dam nice.
As far as a Lease goes, I buy cars all the time, I'm not rich by any means. Once you get a lot of experience buying cars you can usually negotiate a buy-finance very close to a lease price payment. Regardless of what any "experts" tell you; Leasing gives you only one thing; and thats a lower monthly payment (and not by a lot, like $50-70) I buy a new car ever 3 years, and at that point I have had anywhere from $5,000, - $9,000 in "equity" That you control and use at the end of that 3 year cycle, I can't list all the benefits here. So buying is the way to go, just stretch the payments to 72 Months if you want a lease like payment, as a buy-finance.
1.) Sport Package.
2.) Drivers Assistance package.
3.) Black Optic package
4.) Cold Weather package (I live in the North East) Note: Deletes Flat bottom Steering
A la carte' options:
1.) LED Headlights (I thought this gives you interior LED lighting?)
2.) BOSE Surround Sound system (B & O is very expensive, and like 10% better)
3.) Sunshades
4.) Carbon Fiber Inlays (it's so dam cool)
Small Adds:
1.) Cargo Net
2.) The S6 specific All weather mats
3.) Wheel guard lock kit
I've heard on a lot of forums that the Contour Seating is like the most comfortable seating set up. But I have to admit the Audi Recaro-like sport seats and very comfortable, and that Diamond-Comp Stitching looks so dam nice.
As far as a Lease goes, I buy cars all the time, I'm not rich by any means. Once you get a lot of experience buying cars you can usually negotiate a buy-finance very close to a lease price payment. Regardless of what any "experts" tell you; Leasing gives you only one thing; and thats a lower monthly payment (and not by a lot, like $50-70) I buy a new car ever 3 years, and at that point I have had anywhere from $5,000, - $9,000 in "equity" That you control and use at the end of that 3 year cycle, I can't list all the benefits here. So buying is the way to go, just stretch the payments to 72 Months if you want a lease like payment, as a buy-finance.
#4
As far as a Lease goes, I buy cars all the time, I'm not rich by any means. Once you get a lot of experience buying cars you can usually negotiate a buy-finance very close to a lease price payment. Regardless of what any "experts" tell you; Leasing gives you only one thing; and thats a lower monthly payment (and not by a lot, like $50-70) I buy a new car ever 3 years, and at that point I have had anywhere from $5,000, - $9,000 in "equity" That you control and use at the end of that 3 year cycle, I can't list all the benefits here. So buying is the way to go, just stretch the payments to 72 Months if you want a lease like payment, as a buy-finance.
I'm not trying to tell you how to use your money, but leasing isn't as bad as some make it out to be, particularly if you do go through cars often.
I don't lease either, but I tend to keep my cars for a while. The exception, oddly enough, was the Audi S5 I bought and then traded after a year. It wasn't the right car for me, and I paid dearly, because at trade-in time a nearby dealer had an almost identical car sitting on the lot for less than KBB value, so the Porsche dealer really screwed me on the trade-in. Like $5-6k less than what I was expecting. Since I had custom ordered the Porsche with a perfect configuration, I had to take it on the chin.
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@blinsc
I'm not trying to argue semantics here, but typically "total cost of ownership" includes a lot more than just paying for the car. (comparing buy vs lease = just paying for the car) If someone is considering a lease, which Pelo911 was asking about. They are planning on driving the car at a minimum of usually 3 years by contract of course(3 years = most common lease term). I've found so many "experts" as said before saying "well if you like to drive a new car more often leasing is right for you" and I just don't agree with that at all, for so many reasons, one of them the myth of saving money (long term). I'm not really sure what you mean about having an established cost up front. Your paying for the car with a speculated deprecating schedule, with multiple strings attached like your before mentioned mileage, and excessive wear and tear, among other things. I don't see how that provides peace of mind, because your car will depreciate regardless of how you've purchased it, if you trade it in after 3 years, having financed it (buy) it will be worth, roughly the same amount.
Also just to mention, putting more money down on a lease is something called "cap cost reduction) It does in no way, provide you any equity in the car. If fact this is one of the other points that I feel is a total myth by "experts". Theres almost no way to have equity at the end of a lease if your a typical car owner, with typical driving habits. The two BIG reason you might have equity is usually milage (you used WAY less that the lease aloted at lease end) or the RV or Residual Value was speculated in your favor at the time of lease end (the bank projected a lower RV and market conditions, etc. culminates a Higher RV) Banks(Leasing is done mostly by the brands themselves) almost always air on the side of over-speculating RV's (predicting higher). And Lastly now you have to negotiate with the dealer for that "supposed equity". The point really is "equity" in a lease is a "myth" or at the very least is like one of those things that all the stars have to align on for you to potentially profit on. It's Definitely NOT how much money you put down on the car, that's not how leases work. In fact you want to put ZERO down on a lease. Don't let the dealership tell you otherwise.
Also with a Finance-buy you hit positive equity (like a good peak) at Approx. 3 years, So yea if you traded a car in after 1 year of payments the car dips into negative equity (unless you put like 30%+ down at signing) That's the worst time to trade in a Vehicle. It's funny on these Luxury brands it is also generally dumb imho to buy a car that's about 1 or 1.5 years old (used, specifically CPO's) because they are just about the same price as the new ones on the lot of the same type.
Lastly, yea if you order a car, your never going to get a "good deal" well at least imo (the deals that I get). The Dealers have no incentive to order custom optioned cars, except to make money upfront on the deal. So you got raped on both sides of the deal.
I'm not trying to argue semantics here, but typically "total cost of ownership" includes a lot more than just paying for the car. (comparing buy vs lease = just paying for the car) If someone is considering a lease, which Pelo911 was asking about. They are planning on driving the car at a minimum of usually 3 years by contract of course(3 years = most common lease term). I've found so many "experts" as said before saying "well if you like to drive a new car more often leasing is right for you" and I just don't agree with that at all, for so many reasons, one of them the myth of saving money (long term). I'm not really sure what you mean about having an established cost up front. Your paying for the car with a speculated deprecating schedule, with multiple strings attached like your before mentioned mileage, and excessive wear and tear, among other things. I don't see how that provides peace of mind, because your car will depreciate regardless of how you've purchased it, if you trade it in after 3 years, having financed it (buy) it will be worth, roughly the same amount.
Also just to mention, putting more money down on a lease is something called "cap cost reduction) It does in no way, provide you any equity in the car. If fact this is one of the other points that I feel is a total myth by "experts". Theres almost no way to have equity at the end of a lease if your a typical car owner, with typical driving habits. The two BIG reason you might have equity is usually milage (you used WAY less that the lease aloted at lease end) or the RV or Residual Value was speculated in your favor at the time of lease end (the bank projected a lower RV and market conditions, etc. culminates a Higher RV) Banks(Leasing is done mostly by the brands themselves) almost always air on the side of over-speculating RV's (predicting higher). And Lastly now you have to negotiate with the dealer for that "supposed equity". The point really is "equity" in a lease is a "myth" or at the very least is like one of those things that all the stars have to align on for you to potentially profit on. It's Definitely NOT how much money you put down on the car, that's not how leases work. In fact you want to put ZERO down on a lease. Don't let the dealership tell you otherwise.
Also with a Finance-buy you hit positive equity (like a good peak) at Approx. 3 years, So yea if you traded a car in after 1 year of payments the car dips into negative equity (unless you put like 30%+ down at signing) That's the worst time to trade in a Vehicle. It's funny on these Luxury brands it is also generally dumb imho to buy a car that's about 1 or 1.5 years old (used, specifically CPO's) because they are just about the same price as the new ones on the lot of the same type.
Lastly, yea if you order a car, your never going to get a "good deal" well at least imo (the deals that I get). The Dealers have no incentive to order custom optioned cars, except to make money upfront on the deal. So you got raped on both sides of the deal.
#6
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I'm no "expert" but another thing leasing does is it establishes the total cost of ownership for the duration at the very beginning of the transaction, assuming you don't grossly exceed the miles or trash the vehicle. For some that provides peace of mind - there shouldn't be surprises 2-3 years down the road, as there inevitably is when trading in a car you have financed. Also, if you have any "equity" it is because of the down payment you made, not because the car held its value any better.
I'm not trying to tell you how to use your money, but leasing isn't as bad as some make it out to be, particularly if you do go through cars often.
I don't lease either, but I tend to keep my cars for a while. The exception, oddly enough, was the Audi S5 I bought and then traded after a year. It wasn't the right car for me, and I paid dearly, because at trade-in time a nearby dealer had an almost identical car sitting on the lot for less than KBB value, so the Porsche dealer really screwed me on the trade-in. Like $5-6k less than what I was expecting. Since I had custom ordered the Porsche with a perfect configuration, I had to take it on the chin.
I'm not trying to tell you how to use your money, but leasing isn't as bad as some make it out to be, particularly if you do go through cars often.
I don't lease either, but I tend to keep my cars for a while. The exception, oddly enough, was the Audi S5 I bought and then traded after a year. It wasn't the right car for me, and I paid dearly, because at trade-in time a nearby dealer had an almost identical car sitting on the lot for less than KBB value, so the Porsche dealer really screwed me on the trade-in. Like $5-6k less than what I was expecting. Since I had custom ordered the Porsche with a perfect configuration, I had to take it on the chin.
for example:
i have BMW 335i , the MSRP was $50,000 when new
i lease it for 545$ for 36 month , $0 down.
in this case i think it's better to lease compare to finance.
i have also 2016 Macan Turbo . i'm paying $1200 for 39 month
the MSRP $87,000.
in this case i'm not sure i chose right.
anyone here know what the lease price for the S6 in the market right now?
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@Pelo911,
MSRP has nothing to do with a buy or a lease price. The price that you negotiate is what the numbers would be based off of.
If you can manage to put money down on a buy, lets say $5,000 or $8,500. You can start yourself off in a cycle every three years where that money is yours to use every three years in trade value. And in my/most state(s) a tax savings. But you can find out what the money factor & RV is on Edmunds. If your talking about the S6 That I optioned out at the start of the thread, that's about MSRP $84,120, (Negotiate a minimum of -8% off)
MSRP has nothing to do with a buy or a lease price. The price that you negotiate is what the numbers would be based off of.
If you can manage to put money down on a buy, lets say $5,000 or $8,500. You can start yourself off in a cycle every three years where that money is yours to use every three years in trade value. And in my/most state(s) a tax savings. But you can find out what the money factor & RV is on Edmunds. If your talking about the S6 That I optioned out at the start of the thread, that's about MSRP $84,120, (Negotiate a minimum of -8% off)
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#8
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Get the seating upgrade (I forgot what the pkg is called) if you want ventilated seats. I opted out of it because: 1) I like the standard diamond stitching seats in the S6 and 2) The ventilated seats in the A6/S6 are worthless since it just puts out ambient air.
As for leasing vs. buying, I think the biggest factor would be if you have a business. If not, it's best to do a spread sheet and figure out which route results in the least amount of loss. For me (and I'm not rich by any measure), I don't like to be kept on a leash so I just purchase my cars.
Last edited by luv2sleep; 02-14-2016 at 02:52 PM.
#9
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Its called: "Individual Contour Seating package"
I have to admit I had Ventilated seats on my last car, but they ventilated air conditioning through the seat, not ambient air. Not sure if Audi is different in that respect. They are also fully adjustable (18-ways) with massage functions. Which I have to admit I used on my SHO all the time. But I rarely used the ventilated seats for what ever reason.
I have to say I have no issue spending money on options that also conveys it's value at the asked for price. In this case the cost of the Seating package is $2000! And it has the down side of completely deleting the sports-style seats, completely deleting the S6 badging and completely deleting the Diamond stitching, which is an iconic stylistic marvel in these cars. The S6 Sport seats are still 12-way adjustable, and also have 4-way Lumbar adjustment, still all Valcona leather, are Still Heated, and still have the leg extension support. Now that I've gotten to sit and drive in them, they are so comfortable and supportive.
I feel that I'd totally pass on the Contour Seating, you loose too much don't gain much, and it costs $2000.
I have to admit I had Ventilated seats on my last car, but they ventilated air conditioning through the seat, not ambient air. Not sure if Audi is different in that respect. They are also fully adjustable (18-ways) with massage functions. Which I have to admit I used on my SHO all the time. But I rarely used the ventilated seats for what ever reason.
I have to say I have no issue spending money on options that also conveys it's value at the asked for price. In this case the cost of the Seating package is $2000! And it has the down side of completely deleting the sports-style seats, completely deleting the S6 badging and completely deleting the Diamond stitching, which is an iconic stylistic marvel in these cars. The S6 Sport seats are still 12-way adjustable, and also have 4-way Lumbar adjustment, still all Valcona leather, are Still Heated, and still have the leg extension support. Now that I've gotten to sit and drive in them, they are so comfortable and supportive.
I feel that I'd totally pass on the Contour Seating, you loose too much don't gain much, and it costs $2000.