OKMike

Just installed a Kicker SubStation all in one enclosure/sub/amp in the trunk. Part # PES10C. I have a 2013 S6 with the factory Bose system. I researched quite a bit and picked this product for the following reasons:

1. All in one sub/amp/enclosure
2. Sealed enclosure
3. Class D Amplifier
4. High quality sub
5. High level inputs
6. Easily removable with quick cable attachment couplers
7 Automatic on/off (eliminates the need for a remote power on wire)

The downside is the price. About $500.

Instillation was extremely easy. I am a novice-intermediate mechanic at best. I purchased the amplifier instillation kit from Kicker as well that contained everything I needed for the install except for basic hand tools. Here is a brief outline of the instillation process:

-Removed the spare tire
-Disconnected the negative battery terminal
-Connected the positive power cable to the positive terminal of the battery with an inline fuse close to the battery (included in kit)
-Connected the negative power cable to an existing ground bolt in the trunk
-There is a connector about 4 inches from the existing sub on the driver’s side. You can reach it through a hole in the bottom of the rear deck. Disconnect this. There are three wires. The brown with blue stripe is + and the brown with white stripe is -. You can find these wires coming directly from the Bose amp as well. Using the speaker cables in the instillation kit I spliced the brown/blue + wire to the two + wires on the high level inputs on the sub and spliced the brown/white - wire to the two - wires on the high level input connector on the amp.
-Trimmed and connected the power cables to the amp.
-Reconnected the negative battery cable.

That’s it. I put some Velcro strips on the bottom of the box so it would not slide around. Spent about 30 minutes tuning the amp according to the instructions. I can't say enough how much this improves the sound of this audio system. There is also a remote bass boost module that I have not installed yet. Still trying to find the right location. I will try to get some pics uploaded tonight.

kcbonedoc

Pictures!!

///M Traitor

I'm curious, do you hear any unwanted noise from the subwoofer due to the Active Noise Cancellation system? There have been many discussions about the low-frequency noise that is purposefully generated by the ANC system and pumped into the subwoofer.

Obviously the noise is tuned to cancel out the unwanted intrusive cabin noise. This tune is based on the OEM subwoofer, and adding a "louder" subwoofer may cause the noise to become noticeable instead of just canceling out the unwanted noise.

Some people have complained about large humming noises from aftermarket subs when rolling to a stop at idle. Undoubtedly this is the ANC system trying to cancel out the noises of the V8 at idle for a noise free cabin.

The self-study guide indicates that the individual door woofers are used to cancel noise at each passenger location. I can't remember reading if the main subwoofer is also used in the ANC or not - but based on other anecdotal comments of unwanted noise in aftermarket subs, I believe it is also used.

Can you comment on this in depth based on your setup?

OKMike

I have experienced no unwanted noise from the ANC system through the new subwoofer. I have listened to several music types at various sound levels and driving conditions with no evidence of interference from the ANC system. I have read a few threads on this site and audizine that have described some difficulty with aftermarket subwoofer noises on the B&O system. Anyone here have experience with these problems?

S4thrills

Thanks for posting this. I was on the fence about getting a sub, but now that you have done it with Bose with no issues, I am going to move forward.

Just curious, did you remove the existing subwoofer or just leave it in place?

OKMike

I kept the factory sub in place. I saw no reason to remove it other than saving a few pounds. I can take care of that by skipping desert for a few weeks! I simply unplugged the sub and tapped into the wires. It would take me 5 minutes to remove everything and return the system to stock.

OKMike

the cover to the spare tire/battery will open with the sub in place





8 gauge power cable to positive battery terminal








ground connection on upper right of photo








speaker wire connection





bose speaker wire connection to high level input speaker wire

S4thrills

Thanks for posting all the pics.

I heard a couple of different arguments from a couple of different installers about keeping vs. removing the existing sub. One said it should be removed and the hole should be covered in dynamat. To create a better seal in the trunk for the new sub. Another said the sub should be ported to a hole in the rear deck in order to get better sound output.

I was looking for simplest option.

mikec7s6

is the amp built in to your box? I have a bunch of old speaker stuff but my amp is separate. can I just do what you did for the signal to the amp/sub? and im assuming that you left the factory bose unplugged?