Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure. Follow this now and NEVER post a failure "Whine"
10-09-2005, 08:39 PM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure. Follow this now and NEVER post a failure "Whine"
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/61424/fuelpumpcarrier.jpg"></center><p>
If you don't heed my advice and replace your fuel pump if it is the original and you have over 100,000 miles on your S-car, PLEASE don't post to the forum that your fuel pump failed. Of course it did. There was no doubt that it would fail. When was the question and you didn't take matters into your own hands. Don't whine about it to the list. (Please).
Here is the procedure (Note: all the usual YMMV, caveats, no responsibility for errors or omissions, etc. Use your head. Don't smoke, Wear sunscreen. Floss, etc.):
1. Obtain a new fuel pump (the last numbers are "091 G") and a new fuel filter (complete with two new copper crush washers). The replacement fuel pumps are either VDO (typical OEM supplier), Bosch (sometimes the OEM supplier) or Pierburg (a reasonably reputable aftermarket supplier). Sources of these fuel pumps include, S-cars.org, SJM Autotechnik, Blaufuernuegen, the Parts Connection, FAP99, Arizona Autohauz, Bimmerparts, VM Autohaus, etc. and the stealerships.
2. If the car is still running, get the fuel level down until the 15 L "Reserve" warning light comes on, and then some. Otherwise, siphon the tank as dry as possible (save the fuel).
3. Run the engine and pull Fuse No. 17 (in the drivers side dash end panel) while it is running. That should help to empty the fuel lines.
4. Change the fuel filter. Crack open the two connections slowly. Drain whatever fuel comes out into something safe (I used a plastic container). Use the new copper crush washers when installing the new filter.
5. Empty your trunk, including the carpet on the hump (leave the main bottom carpet in - you will be living in here for a few hours).
6. Remove the three screws in the cover plate and remove the cover plate.
7. Disconnect the wire connections (NOTE: FUSE 17 should still be out of the fuse panel)..
8. Remove the retaining ring. Either use the correct VAG tool or a piece of wood and a rubber or plastic mallet. DO NOT USE METAL THINGS. They may cause a spark and you may burn yourself to death (not pretty). If this scares you, stop and let a trained mechanic do the job.
9. Disconnect the fuel banjo line. You need two wrenches to do this. One to hold the fitting and one to turn the banjo nut (anti clockwise). IF you HAVEN'T followed the procedures above, the lines will still be pressurized and you will get fuel in your face. IF you have followed the above procedures, you still might get some dripping. Blot these up ASAP and get the cloths or papertowels out of the car ASAP.
10. Pull the fuel level sender assembly out. PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION as to the orientation of everything: The upper plastic plate, the hoses, the wires, etc. You need to be able to get this back in without hanging the fuel level float up in either the fuel hoses or the wires to the fuel pump.
11. Lay the sender assemby close by.
12. Reach in, to the fuel tank and either use the VAG tool to loosen (anticlock wise) the fuel pump retaining basket OR unclip the fuel pump from the basket. Remember how everything is oriented. See photo. There are two clips one at 6 oclock and one at 12 oclock. You can only get one arm in the hole so do one clip at a time, eg. back and then front, lifting/twisting the fuel pump a bit, and then the other clip.
13. Revove the fuel pump and/or basktet from the tank,
14. Disconnect all the fuel pump wires and hoses and install them on the new fuel pump. The Bosch fuel pump will require cutting off the existing ring terminals and crimping on the Bosch clip-in connectors (actually a better system).
15. Reinstall the fuel pump in the basket (it should "click" in. Install the basket (clockwise) IF you removed it.
16. Resinstall the sender unit making sure that all the wires and hoses are not going to hang up the wire sender arm.
17. Reinstall the banjo fitting. Use a new crush washer.
18. Reinstall the retaining ring.
19. Reinstall the wiring connections on the top plate (if removed).
20. Reinstall Fuse 17.
21. Start the car (it will take a bit of cranking to fill the fuel lines again, don't panic).
22. If everything works, then reinstall the cover plate, etc. If there are problems, you will need to go back in and re-check your steps.
23. Enjoy some peace of mind
If you don't heed my advice and replace your fuel pump if it is the original and you have over 100,000 miles on your S-car, PLEASE don't post to the forum that your fuel pump failed. Of course it did. There was no doubt that it would fail. When was the question and you didn't take matters into your own hands. Don't whine about it to the list. (Please).
Here is the procedure (Note: all the usual YMMV, caveats, no responsibility for errors or omissions, etc. Use your head. Don't smoke, Wear sunscreen. Floss, etc.):
1. Obtain a new fuel pump (the last numbers are "091 G") and a new fuel filter (complete with two new copper crush washers). The replacement fuel pumps are either VDO (typical OEM supplier), Bosch (sometimes the OEM supplier) or Pierburg (a reasonably reputable aftermarket supplier). Sources of these fuel pumps include, S-cars.org, SJM Autotechnik, Blaufuernuegen, the Parts Connection, FAP99, Arizona Autohauz, Bimmerparts, VM Autohaus, etc. and the stealerships.
2. If the car is still running, get the fuel level down until the 15 L "Reserve" warning light comes on, and then some. Otherwise, siphon the tank as dry as possible (save the fuel).
3. Run the engine and pull Fuse No. 17 (in the drivers side dash end panel) while it is running. That should help to empty the fuel lines.
4. Change the fuel filter. Crack open the two connections slowly. Drain whatever fuel comes out into something safe (I used a plastic container). Use the new copper crush washers when installing the new filter.
5. Empty your trunk, including the carpet on the hump (leave the main bottom carpet in - you will be living in here for a few hours).
6. Remove the three screws in the cover plate and remove the cover plate.
7. Disconnect the wire connections (NOTE: FUSE 17 should still be out of the fuse panel)..
8. Remove the retaining ring. Either use the correct VAG tool or a piece of wood and a rubber or plastic mallet. DO NOT USE METAL THINGS. They may cause a spark and you may burn yourself to death (not pretty). If this scares you, stop and let a trained mechanic do the job.
9. Disconnect the fuel banjo line. You need two wrenches to do this. One to hold the fitting and one to turn the banjo nut (anti clockwise). IF you HAVEN'T followed the procedures above, the lines will still be pressurized and you will get fuel in your face. IF you have followed the above procedures, you still might get some dripping. Blot these up ASAP and get the cloths or papertowels out of the car ASAP.
10. Pull the fuel level sender assembly out. PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION as to the orientation of everything: The upper plastic plate, the hoses, the wires, etc. You need to be able to get this back in without hanging the fuel level float up in either the fuel hoses or the wires to the fuel pump.
11. Lay the sender assemby close by.
12. Reach in, to the fuel tank and either use the VAG tool to loosen (anticlock wise) the fuel pump retaining basket OR unclip the fuel pump from the basket. Remember how everything is oriented. See photo. There are two clips one at 6 oclock and one at 12 oclock. You can only get one arm in the hole so do one clip at a time, eg. back and then front, lifting/twisting the fuel pump a bit, and then the other clip.
13. Revove the fuel pump and/or basktet from the tank,
14. Disconnect all the fuel pump wires and hoses and install them on the new fuel pump. The Bosch fuel pump will require cutting off the existing ring terminals and crimping on the Bosch clip-in connectors (actually a better system).
15. Reinstall the fuel pump in the basket (it should "click" in. Install the basket (clockwise) IF you removed it.
16. Resinstall the sender unit making sure that all the wires and hoses are not going to hang up the wire sender arm.
17. Reinstall the banjo fitting. Use a new crush washer.
18. Reinstall the retaining ring.
19. Reinstall the wiring connections on the top plate (if removed).
20. Reinstall Fuse 17.
21. Start the car (it will take a bit of cranking to fill the fuel lines again, don't panic).
22. If everything works, then reinstall the cover plate, etc. If there are problems, you will need to go back in and re-check your steps.
23. Enjoy some peace of mind
10-09-2005, 09:27 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Brrrrrrr. We found our "poster boy", Its Forrest. Imagine his mournful face, with just a...
small tear running down his left check and the caption "Forrest replaced his fuel pump at the side of the road at 14 deg F. Forrest says "Don't be like me. Replace your fuel pump while there is still time."
Or something like that.
Dave F.
Or something like that.
Dave F.
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