Got the car back together this weekend. MLS and ARP head studs. Head repaired.
01-19-2009, 06:55 AM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got the car back together this weekend. MLS and ARP head studs. Head repaired.
Here are some pictures of the before & after:
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/32fbUsMKlLdLL3YJaL43mg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SWj-n8yorKI/AAAAAAAAClg/pcohEicWBJw/s400/DSC00241.JPG" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qa58ndnAUYycaUoiDfL3zQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SXShLHrKNXI/AAAAAAAACpo/3ybtZbeBzJs/s400/DSC00242.JPG" /></a>
Machine shop welded and then decked the head .006". Replaced all the (less than 1 yr old) valve seals and performed a valve job on it. Apparently bits of the fire-ring had gotten blown back through the intake and had lodged on some of the valve seats.
Reassembled w/ ARP head studs and a multi layer steal (mls) head gasket, new intake & exhaust gaskets and other odds & ends.
So after about $346 for the head work & $200 in parts (I did the labor) It fired right up after making oil pressure.
Went back together nicely.
Interesting find. A while back I posted about large amounts of mist/oil coming from breather.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gRS1nu2yCpFeYXRs03o1fg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SXSl7F24XKI/AAAAAAAACrI/HB0NXTZPMB0/s400/check-valve%20or%20bleeder%20valve.JPG" /></a>
I found the check-valve(or bleeder-valve as ETKA labels is) -#10 in picture- was so gummed up and nasty that it never would seal under boost.
After removing it, and cleaning it, it works 100%.
So "GOOD BYE" nasty oil mist!
Went with the 65ft/lbs quote on the ARP head studs -following factory tightening sequence.
Using 35-50-65 increments.
After it's first full heat cycle I'll check and re-torque as needed.
Thanks everyone for your help!
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/32fbUsMKlLdLL3YJaL43mg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SWj-n8yorKI/AAAAAAAAClg/pcohEicWBJw/s400/DSC00241.JPG" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qa58ndnAUYycaUoiDfL3zQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SXShLHrKNXI/AAAAAAAACpo/3ybtZbeBzJs/s400/DSC00242.JPG" /></a>
Machine shop welded and then decked the head .006". Replaced all the (less than 1 yr old) valve seals and performed a valve job on it. Apparently bits of the fire-ring had gotten blown back through the intake and had lodged on some of the valve seats.
Reassembled w/ ARP head studs and a multi layer steal (mls) head gasket, new intake & exhaust gaskets and other odds & ends.
So after about $346 for the head work & $200 in parts (I did the labor) It fired right up after making oil pressure.
Went back together nicely.
Interesting find. A while back I posted about large amounts of mist/oil coming from breather.
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gRS1nu2yCpFeYXRs03o1fg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_mcJPpNXvKjo/SXSl7F24XKI/AAAAAAAACrI/HB0NXTZPMB0/s400/check-valve%20or%20bleeder%20valve.JPG" /></a>
I found the check-valve(or bleeder-valve as ETKA labels is) -#10 in picture- was so gummed up and nasty that it never would seal under boost.
After removing it, and cleaning it, it works 100%.
So "GOOD BYE" nasty oil mist!
Went with the 65ft/lbs quote on the ARP head studs -following factory tightening sequence.
Using 35-50-65 increments.
After it's first full heat cycle I'll check and re-torque as needed.
Thanks everyone for your help!
