Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ), Procedures and Resources
#101
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
An excellent source of G70 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor info including cleaning
<ul><li><a href="http://s2central.net/ds_G70.html">Click for more info</a></li></ul>
#102
Walbro 255LPH GSS341 - Fuel Pump DIY & Other Fuel pump options
If you're on a tight budget and need to replace your fuel pump, here is the Walbro 255 GSS341 installation made easy. It is a $100ish option and can be considered an "upgrade" from stock. The numbers put this pump in between the Bosch 005 and 044 units, however let it be known that many have reported Walbro as "across the board" lifespan and quality wise.
YMMV, so I recommend at the very least purchasing the Walbro from a reputable reseller who backs their products with some type of warranty.<ul><li><a href="http://www.justfourrings.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1022">Walbro 255LPH GSS341 // Fuel Pump DIY & Other Fuel pump options</a></li></ul>
YMMV, so I recommend at the very least purchasing the Walbro from a reputable reseller who backs their products with some type of warranty.<ul><li><a href="http://www.justfourrings.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1022">Walbro 255LPH GSS341 // Fuel Pump DIY & Other Fuel pump options</a></li></ul>
#103
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Engine Bay Device Location Map
This should help finding and understanding some of the devices that the AAN 20vt needs to run.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/222453.phtml">Click here for diagram and hyperlinks to device information</a></li></ul>
#104
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Allston, MA
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Wiring photo of ECU (easy to read) and all its fuses and sensors...
From alpinab7's post
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46176/motronic_schematic.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/46176/motronic_schematic.jpg">
#105
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Upgrading Head Unit with Bose Soundsystem
I didn't write, but thought it would make an excellent reference guide.
Follow the link below:<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/232119.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/232119.phtml</a</li></ul>
Follow the link below:<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/232119.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/s4s6/msgs/232119.phtml</a</li></ul>
#106
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
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Frugal Mechanic ---- auto parts comparison shopping engine
Compare prices across many different retailers<ul><li><a href="http://frugalmechanic.com">http://frugalmechanic.com</a</li></ul>
#107
Re: Ultimate VIN Decoder
Well that one is dead. Try this <A HREF="http://www.bitnet.ro/vw/vindecoder">Audi VIN Decoder</A>:
<A HREF="http://www.bitnet.ro/vw/vindecoder">http://www.bitnet.ro/vw/vindecoder</A>
<A HREF="http://www.bitnet.ro/vw/vindecoder">http://www.bitnet.ro/vw/vindecoder</A>
#108
Sunroof issue
Recently my sunroof would only open a little way then stop. Then to close, it would go through the close cycle, open the back, then close again, then shut down.'
I tried disconnecting the battery, tried cleaning the switch, but to no avail.
The next thing I did was to remove the motor assembly.
First, pull the switch cover off, unplug the switch plate.
Then get the torx bit #25 and remove the three screws.
The motor will then come out in your hand easily.
Replug your switch and cycle the motor with it resting in your hand, the smaller drive gear should rotate constantly for about 5 seconds then click off, the bigger timing sprocket should turn in jumps with every one revolution of the main gear, this is the timing gear, if it stops or is stuck then the drive will stop as well.
Mine had a bunch of crap laying around the drive gear and timing wheel and I suspect that the junk was interfering with the timing wheel.After cleaning the housing out I then sprayed a lubricant ( NOT WD 40 ) on the timing wheel and under the drive gear, cycled it a couple more times, then reinstalled the motor.Then ran the sunroof back and forth, happy with my success, I reinstalled the switch gear and cover plate.
On a side note, I noticed that nowhere is it mentioned that when operating the sunroof manually, you should pull out the red drive connector part way (Don't pull it out all the way, you will have to re-time the driver ), this disengages the motor from the drive mechanism, you can strip out the allen driver if you don't disengage the the driver.
Lincoln
I tried disconnecting the battery, tried cleaning the switch, but to no avail.
The next thing I did was to remove the motor assembly.
First, pull the switch cover off, unplug the switch plate.
Then get the torx bit #25 and remove the three screws.
The motor will then come out in your hand easily.
Replug your switch and cycle the motor with it resting in your hand, the smaller drive gear should rotate constantly for about 5 seconds then click off, the bigger timing sprocket should turn in jumps with every one revolution of the main gear, this is the timing gear, if it stops or is stuck then the drive will stop as well.
Mine had a bunch of crap laying around the drive gear and timing wheel and I suspect that the junk was interfering with the timing wheel.After cleaning the housing out I then sprayed a lubricant ( NOT WD 40 ) on the timing wheel and under the drive gear, cycled it a couple more times, then reinstalled the motor.Then ran the sunroof back and forth, happy with my success, I reinstalled the switch gear and cover plate.
On a side note, I noticed that nowhere is it mentioned that when operating the sunroof manually, you should pull out the red drive connector part way (Don't pull it out all the way, you will have to re-time the driver ), this disengages the motor from the drive mechanism, you can strip out the allen driver if you don't disengage the the driver.
Lincoln
#109
Reformat repost of Dave's original old procedure
Cleaned up icky formatting on S-cars.org doc and reposted...<ul><li><a href="http://www.j2c3.com/misc/UrS4-S6%20Headlight%20cleaning%20procedure.htm">Headlig ht lens cleaning & replacement repost</a></li></ul>
#110
Rear subframe parts diagram and torque specs
<img src="http://edsaudi12v.com/audi/rearsusp.jpg">
1 - Crossmember II - Note different types - Mount on differential
2 - Gasket - Always replace - Remove protective backing and install on CV joint
3 - Crossmember I - Note different types - Continuously angled edge points toward front of vehicle
4 - Bonded rubber bushing
5 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 60 Nm (44 ft lb)
6 - Driveshaft - Before disconnecting, check colored markings and/or put mark on flange shaft and driveshaft
7 - 55 Nm (41 ft lb) - Always replace
8 - Crossmember - Note different types - Provided with bonded rubber bushing - When mounting the crossmember, make sure the four holes in the crossmember are aligned as concentrically as possible to the stay bolts. - Align the rear axle after repairs.
9 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
10 - Wiring harness bracket - Connect to trapezoidal arm
11 - Wiring harness For ABS wheel speed sensor - Install in bracket - Do not pinch when mounting on trapezoidal arm
12 - Trapezoidal arm - After removing, installing or replacing: check toe and camber
13 - Hex nut - 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
14 - Bolt - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
15 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
16 - Bracket - Welded onto floor
17 - Bonded rubber bushing - Coat first with acid-free lubricant - Press into bracket by hand
18 - Transverse link - Left and right sides different - Check camber after replacing
19 - ABS wheel speed sensor Press into wheel bearing housing to stop
20 - Wheel bearing housing
21 - Bracket for ABS wheel speed sensor wire
22 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 40 Nm (30 ft lb)
23 - Washer
24 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
25 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 85 Nm (63 ft lb) - Tighten with vehicle standing on wheels
1 - Crossmember II - Note different types - Mount on differential
2 - Gasket - Always replace - Remove protective backing and install on CV joint
3 - Crossmember I - Note different types - Continuously angled edge points toward front of vehicle
4 - Bonded rubber bushing
5 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 60 Nm (44 ft lb)
6 - Driveshaft - Before disconnecting, check colored markings and/or put mark on flange shaft and driveshaft
7 - 55 Nm (41 ft lb) - Always replace
8 - Crossmember - Note different types - Provided with bonded rubber bushing - When mounting the crossmember, make sure the four holes in the crossmember are aligned as concentrically as possible to the stay bolts. - Align the rear axle after repairs.
9 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
10 - Wiring harness bracket - Connect to trapezoidal arm
11 - Wiring harness For ABS wheel speed sensor - Install in bracket - Do not pinch when mounting on trapezoidal arm
12 - Trapezoidal arm - After removing, installing or replacing: check toe and camber
13 - Hex nut - 10 Nm (7 ft lb)
14 - Bolt - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
15 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
16 - Bracket - Welded onto floor
17 - Bonded rubber bushing - Coat first with acid-free lubricant - Press into bracket by hand
18 - Transverse link - Left and right sides different - Check camber after replacing
19 - ABS wheel speed sensor Press into wheel bearing housing to stop
20 - Wheel bearing housing
21 - Bracket for ABS wheel speed sensor wire
22 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 40 Nm (30 ft lb)
23 - Washer
24 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 45 Nm (33 ft lb)
25 - Self-locking nut - Always replace - 85 Nm (63 ft lb) - Tighten with vehicle standing on wheels