Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ), Procedures and Resources
01-11-2007, 06:40 PM
#53
AudiWorld Super User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Torsen Differential Swap
From my Audifans post in Sept 2006:
- remove rear wheels
- remove exhaust at double clamps, support exhaust, remove hangers
and pull out exhaust
- remove plastic tray under gas tank
- remove bolts attaching trapezoidal arm to subframe, this allows
clearance between the inner CV joints and the axle flanges
- remove cover plate on left side of axle
- remove left handbrake cable bracket to diff
- unbolt right handbrake cable bracket from diff (one of the bolts
is obstructed, I used vice-grips)
- remove handbrake cable brackets holding to body (near driveshaft)
- remove triple square bolts from inner CV joints to the axle
flanges
- remove driveshaft CV joint to input flange bolts
- remove single nut holding the rear diff mount to the subframe
- remove muffler support cross member
- remove diff front cross member and support diff
- lower front of diff down slightly
- remove diff cross member from diff bracket
- remove diff bracket from front of diff and slide bracket over
input flange
- lower the front down farther and when at about a 30 degree angle,
lift the rear up allowing the rear mount bolt to clear the subframe
- lower diff to floor and remove
- remove rear mount bracket and install on new diff
As they say, installation is the reverse of removal, a few tips.
It's easier to lift the diff into position manually without a jack, although
its pretty heavy (~100 lbs). It took me a while to figure this out after
several fruitless attempts to use a floor jack that I have outfitted with a
12x12 square piece of 1 inch plywood bolted to the saddle. I did this by
lying on the garage floor and angled the rear up at the same 30 degrees and
guided the rear mount bolt into the upper hole on the subframe. Once it's in
there, you can jack up the front and install all the brackets and cross
member. Be careful to makes sure the handbrake cables don't get caught.
If you have the car on a lift, I'd suggest two people lift the diff and have a
transmission jack handy to support the front once the rear mount bolt is
engaged in the subframe.
- remove rear wheels
- remove exhaust at double clamps, support exhaust, remove hangers
and pull out exhaust
- remove plastic tray under gas tank
- remove bolts attaching trapezoidal arm to subframe, this allows
clearance between the inner CV joints and the axle flanges
- remove cover plate on left side of axle
- remove left handbrake cable bracket to diff
- unbolt right handbrake cable bracket from diff (one of the bolts
is obstructed, I used vice-grips)
- remove handbrake cable brackets holding to body (near driveshaft)
- remove triple square bolts from inner CV joints to the axle
flanges
- remove driveshaft CV joint to input flange bolts
- remove single nut holding the rear diff mount to the subframe
- remove muffler support cross member
- remove diff front cross member and support diff
- lower front of diff down slightly
- remove diff cross member from diff bracket
- remove diff bracket from front of diff and slide bracket over
input flange
- lower the front down farther and when at about a 30 degree angle,
lift the rear up allowing the rear mount bolt to clear the subframe
- lower diff to floor and remove
- remove rear mount bracket and install on new diff
As they say, installation is the reverse of removal, a few tips.
It's easier to lift the diff into position manually without a jack, although
its pretty heavy (~100 lbs). It took me a while to figure this out after
several fruitless attempts to use a floor jack that I have outfitted with a
12x12 square piece of 1 inch plywood bolted to the saddle. I did this by
lying on the garage floor and angled the rear up at the same 30 degrees and
guided the rear mount bolt into the upper hole on the subframe. Once it's in
there, you can jack up the front and install all the brackets and cross
member. Be careful to makes sure the handbrake cables don't get caught.
If you have the car on a lift, I'd suggest two people lift the diff and have a
transmission jack handy to support the front once the rear mount bolt is
engaged in the subframe.
01-13-2007, 01:30 PM
#58
Audiworld Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: After market chip suppliers
GTQuattro has several Do It Yourself Performance Kits now available for the earlier Quattro's. New kits continue to be added to provide easy and inexpensive modifications by providing instructions and components in a "DIY" Do It Yourself Kit.
http://www.gtquattro.com<ul><li><a href="http://www.gtquattro.com/GTQKITS.html">Do It Yourself Performance Kits by GTQuattro</a></li></ul>
http://www.gtquattro.com<ul><li><a href="http://www.gtquattro.com/GTQKITS.html">Do It Yourself Performance Kits by GTQuattro</a></li></ul>
