Performance coatings, Part Deux....
#1
Performance coatings, Part Deux....
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/87069/swaintech_tbc.jpg"></center><p>This is SwainTech's exhaust coating. From their website: "The theory of insulating the exhaust system to retain heat is commonly overlooked by most racers. After heat has performed its function in the combustion chamber, it travels out the exhaust port to the header. If the Gases are allowed to cool, they lose velocity and the scavenging effect is reduced. If by insulating the exhaust system, gases inside are kept at the highest possible temperature, the resulting effect is a greater exhaust gas velocity and higher efficiency. Each gas pulse moves through the pipe faster, making room for the next and pulling it along. This reduces back pressure and increases the "super-charging" effect created by the now of high velocity gases.
Insulated headers also reduce radiant heat and lower underhood and cockpit temperature. By reducing air intake temperature 10?F, a horsepower increase of 1% results, a 30?F drop equates to a 3% horsepower increase. This is inexpensive horsepower.
Swain Tech engineers have developed several heat management products for use on headers and exhaust systems. Swain Tech Thermal Barrier Coating, TBC-EX is a 3-layer .015-.020" thick permanent coating. The coating is pearl white in color and extremely durable. It reduces radient heat by more than 50%."
And the pearl color even matches the car...what more could you ask for. Considering doing the turbo housing also, but have reservations over dismantling a brand new RS2 unit. Should I be concerned over this, or is reassembly monkey proof? Anyway, posted this in case anyone was interested.
Insulated headers also reduce radiant heat and lower underhood and cockpit temperature. By reducing air intake temperature 10?F, a horsepower increase of 1% results, a 30?F drop equates to a 3% horsepower increase. This is inexpensive horsepower.
Swain Tech engineers have developed several heat management products for use on headers and exhaust systems. Swain Tech Thermal Barrier Coating, TBC-EX is a 3-layer .015-.020" thick permanent coating. The coating is pearl white in color and extremely durable. It reduces radient heat by more than 50%."
And the pearl color even matches the car...what more could you ask for. Considering doing the turbo housing also, but have reservations over dismantling a brand new RS2 unit. Should I be concerned over this, or is reassembly monkey proof? Anyway, posted this in case anyone was interested.
#2
BTDT . . . (edit)
B5 S4
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_0536.jpg">
C4 S4
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2066.jpg">
Got polish ?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2424.jpg">
Only I didn't coat my DP because <a href="http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/11001/11001.html">this </a> + <a href="http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/12001/12001.html">this</a> is much more cost-effective
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2510.jpg">
Coating the Turbine requires removing the Exducer wheel - I wouldn't do it.
Easier just to wrap with a <a href="http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/turbo_heat_shield_kit.php">Turbo Blanket</A>
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_0536.jpg">
C4 S4
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2066.jpg">
Got polish ?
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2424.jpg">
Only I didn't coat my DP because <a href="http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/11001/11001.html">this </a> + <a href="http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/12001/12001.html">this</a> is much more cost-effective
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/58573/img_2510.jpg">
Coating the Turbine requires removing the Exducer wheel - I wouldn't do it.
Easier just to wrap with a <a href="http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/turbo_heat_shield_kit.php">Turbo Blanket</A>
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Questions????????
Not to be discounting the Swain tech and various wraps displayed above but I thought that by coating the outside of the Ex mani and DP that you are in effect "baking" the metal underneath these coatings or wraps? I certainly understand the "thermal theories" behind such coatings but wouldn't it be more prudent to coat the interior of such peices versus the exterior? This way the actual metal of the pieces wouldn't get so heat soaked and retain such heat that could lead to cracks and failure? Has anyone heard of this or am I way off base here?
Looks awsome although how does the coating stand up to greasy hands during install? Does it permantly smudge or can you wipe them clean after their installed?
Looks awsome although how does the coating stand up to greasy hands during install? Does it permantly smudge or can you wipe them clean after their installed?
#4
Answers !!!!!
In general yes, coating the inside is best. In fact the Porsche 944 had ceramic inserts in the exhaust flow from valve -> EM -> Turbine to insulate from exhaust gas temps.
But coating the inside of the IM or EM is <B>NOT</B> a good idea. It will peel and then hit the Turbine causing FOD - foreign obect damage, turbine wheel rips itself apart.
Coating the inside of the DP may be feasible - if you don't mind crap in the Cats - but you'd need to use a different material than this "white lightning" coating. For exhaust gasses the idea is to smooth the flow in every way possible. This white coating is a very rough composite of Sand and Ceramic. There is a better one e.g. "jet black ceramic" that may work.
Yes the header can crack if they get too hot and are then rapidly cooled.
This white coating will "weap" after it get very hot, and turns a little orange-ish around the hotest areas. Finger/oil marks are not visible.
But coating the inside of the IM or EM is <B>NOT</B> a good idea. It will peel and then hit the Turbine causing FOD - foreign obect damage, turbine wheel rips itself apart.
Coating the inside of the DP may be feasible - if you don't mind crap in the Cats - but you'd need to use a different material than this "white lightning" coating. For exhaust gasses the idea is to smooth the flow in every way possible. This white coating is a very rough composite of Sand and Ceramic. There is a better one e.g. "jet black ceramic" that may work.
Yes the header can crack if they get too hot and are then rapidly cooled.
This white coating will "weap" after it get very hot, and turns a little orange-ish around the hotest areas. Finger/oil marks are not visible.
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