(with out zip ties)

I am going to show you how to modify replacement brake pads that come with the wrong clips to use the correct clip so you don't have rattling calipers or zip ties.

I performed this on my Hawk HP Plus pads that I ordered and come with the wrong clip for the outboard pad. Do this at your own risk.

Example replacement (Hawk, ect) pad on the left. Factory OE pad on the right.




Tools required:
1. Safety Glasses
2. leather gloves
3. Dremel or other rotary tool
4. Fiber glass reinforced cut off wheels for said rotary tool
5. Grinding stone for said rotary tool
6. BFH (Big #@!% Hammer)
7. Center punch
8. Power drill
9. 1/8" drill bit
10. 8mm socket
11. 1/4 drive ratchet
12. 1/4 drive handle or 8MM nut driver
13. Vice or vice grips

Parts required:
1. One .89 cent package of #10x1/2 Hex head self drilling sheet metal screws.

I suggest trying this out on old pads first before you ruin a set of $140 pads if you are uncomfortable with this.

Let's begin!

1. Grind off clip from OE pads. (notice the hole that is drilled from my own practice ;)


2. Next grind off the clip on the new pads. Notice I didn't grind away too much. You need to leave some paint so you can identify the center of the square left behind.


3. Line up your center punch.


4. Then use your BFH!


5. Time for power tools! Get out the drill with the 1/8th inch bit and drill a hole in the center of the square where you marked with the center punch. You can measure by putting tape on the drill bit so you know where to stop. Once the hole was drilled I used one of the self tapping screws and a 8mm socket with handle to drive it. I turned it in to make sure the hole was the right size since the drill bit was slightly smaller. I did not go past that self tapping part into the threads. Just used for sizing the hole.

6. Get out the sheet metal screws.


7. Lock the screws in a vice or vice grips and cut off the self tapping ends of two of them with the rotary tool.


They should end up at the perfect length!


8. Use the 8mm socket with the driver handle or a nut driver, line up the old (proper) clip over the hole on the new pad and start driving the screw. Once it's started I switched to a ratchet as it was pretty hard to turn and required some leverage. Tighten down and your done!





I was able to complete both pads in about 45 minutes. And after driving on the track today for four 20 minute sessions, they held up beautifully!

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Current:
2004 S4
No Warranty:
66K Fuel filter $45
67K Motor mount $200
67K Coil pack(s) $40*2
67K Window regulator $100

2003 TT 1.8T
No Warranty:
50K Hazard Switch $50

Past:
1998 A4 1.8TQMS

B6/7 S4 Hawk Pad part number update!
Should no longer need to do the below anymore:
How to modify C5 A6 Hawk pads for use in the B6/B7 S4 or B7 A4