How to modify replacement brake pads to use the proper clips so you can lock in the caliper spring
07-21-2007, 07:42 PM
#1
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How to modify replacement brake pads to use the proper clips so you can lock in the caliper spring
(with out zip ties)
I am going to show you how to modify replacement brake pads that come with the wrong clips to use the correct clip so you don't have rattling calipers or zip ties.
I performed this on my Hawk HP Plus pads that I ordered and come with the wrong clip for the outboard pad. Do this at your own risk.
Example replacement (Hawk, ect) pad on the left. Factory OE pad on the right.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36175/mattb93-img_0253.jpg">
Tools required:
1. Safety Glasses
2. leather gloves
3. Dremel or other rotary tool
4. Fiber glass reinforced cut off wheels for said rotary tool
5. Grinding stone for said rotary tool
6. BFH (Big #@!% Hammer)
7. Center punch
8. Power drill
9. 1/8" drill bit
10. 8mm socket
11. 1/4 drive ratchet
12. 1/4 drive handle or 8MM nut driver
13. Vice or vice grips
Parts required:
1. One .89 cent package of #10x1/2 Hex head self drilling sheet metal screws.
I suggest trying this out on old pads first before you ruin a set of $140 pads if you are uncomfortable with this.
Let's begin!
1. Grind off clip from OE pads. (notice the hole that is drilled from my own practice
<img src="http://lh4.google.com/mattb93/RqLEb4zWj7I/AAAAAAAAB2E/ZQ28i4HOZ2g/s800/IMG_0988.JPG" />
2. Next grind off the clip on the new pads. Notice I didn't grind away too much. You need to leave some paint so you can identify the center of the square left behind.
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLEuYzWj-I/AAAAAAAAB2Q/xfrsvAFw3PU/s800/IMG_0991.JPG" />
3. Line up your center punch.
<img src="http://lh3.google.com/mattb93/RqLFOozWkFI/AAAAAAAAB2o/BLb6s5t9YrE/s800/IMG_0998.JPG" />
4. Then use your BFH!
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLFXYzWkHI/AAAAAAAAB2w/BZaTUjoJmPI/s800/IMG_1000.JPG" />
5. Time for power tools! Get out the drill with the 1/8th inch bit and drill a hole in the center of the square where you marked with the center punch. You can measure by putting tape on the drill bit so you know where to stop. Once the hole was drilled I used one of the self tapping screws and a 8mm socket with handle to drive it. I turned it in to make sure the hole was the right size since the drill bit was slightly smaller. I did not go past that self tapping part into the threads. Just used for sizing the hole.
6. Get out the sheet metal screws.
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLFlYzWkKI/AAAAAAAAB24/toD5MKqGMWU/s800/IMG_1003.JPG" />
7. Lock the screws in a vice or vice grips and cut off the self tapping ends of two of them with the rotary tool.
<img src="http://lh4.google.com/mattb93/RqLGP4zWkTI/AAAAAAAAB00/fo0VLdErD2M/s800/IMG_1012.JPG" />
They should end up at the perfect length!
<img src="http://lh3.google.com/mattb93/RqLG8ozWkcI/AAAAAAAAB18/XttNNNi3oUo/s800/IMG_1021.JPG" />
8. Use the 8mm socket with the driver handle or a nut driver, line up the old (proper) clip over the hole on the new pad and start driving the screw. Once it's started I switched to a ratchet as it was pretty hard to turn and required some leverage. Tighten down and your done!
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLGaYzWkVI/AAAAAAAAB1E/fpxIL1eTHVc/s800/IMG_1014.JPG" />
<img src="http://lh5.google.com/mattb93/RqLGkIzWkXI/AAAAAAAAB1U/J_qtLZEj9_Y/s800/IMG_1016.JPG" />
I was able to complete both pads in about 45 minutes. And after driving on the track today for four 20 minute sessions, they held up beautifully!
I am going to show you how to modify replacement brake pads that come with the wrong clips to use the correct clip so you don't have rattling calipers or zip ties.
I performed this on my Hawk HP Plus pads that I ordered and come with the wrong clip for the outboard pad. Do this at your own risk.
Example replacement (Hawk, ect) pad on the left. Factory OE pad on the right.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36175/mattb93-img_0253.jpg">
Tools required:
1. Safety Glasses
2. leather gloves
3. Dremel or other rotary tool
4. Fiber glass reinforced cut off wheels for said rotary tool
5. Grinding stone for said rotary tool
6. BFH (Big #@!% Hammer)
7. Center punch
8. Power drill
9. 1/8" drill bit
10. 8mm socket
11. 1/4 drive ratchet
12. 1/4 drive handle or 8MM nut driver
13. Vice or vice grips
Parts required:
1. One .89 cent package of #10x1/2 Hex head self drilling sheet metal screws.
I suggest trying this out on old pads first before you ruin a set of $140 pads if you are uncomfortable with this.
Let's begin!
1. Grind off clip from OE pads. (notice the hole that is drilled from my own practice
<img src="http://lh4.google.com/mattb93/RqLEb4zWj7I/AAAAAAAAB2E/ZQ28i4HOZ2g/s800/IMG_0988.JPG" />
2. Next grind off the clip on the new pads. Notice I didn't grind away too much. You need to leave some paint so you can identify the center of the square left behind.
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLEuYzWj-I/AAAAAAAAB2Q/xfrsvAFw3PU/s800/IMG_0991.JPG" />
3. Line up your center punch.
<img src="http://lh3.google.com/mattb93/RqLFOozWkFI/AAAAAAAAB2o/BLb6s5t9YrE/s800/IMG_0998.JPG" />
4. Then use your BFH!
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLFXYzWkHI/AAAAAAAAB2w/BZaTUjoJmPI/s800/IMG_1000.JPG" />
5. Time for power tools! Get out the drill with the 1/8th inch bit and drill a hole in the center of the square where you marked with the center punch. You can measure by putting tape on the drill bit so you know where to stop. Once the hole was drilled I used one of the self tapping screws and a 8mm socket with handle to drive it. I turned it in to make sure the hole was the right size since the drill bit was slightly smaller. I did not go past that self tapping part into the threads. Just used for sizing the hole.
6. Get out the sheet metal screws.
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLFlYzWkKI/AAAAAAAAB24/toD5MKqGMWU/s800/IMG_1003.JPG" />
7. Lock the screws in a vice or vice grips and cut off the self tapping ends of two of them with the rotary tool.
<img src="http://lh4.google.com/mattb93/RqLGP4zWkTI/AAAAAAAAB00/fo0VLdErD2M/s800/IMG_1012.JPG" />
They should end up at the perfect length!
<img src="http://lh3.google.com/mattb93/RqLG8ozWkcI/AAAAAAAAB18/XttNNNi3oUo/s800/IMG_1021.JPG" />
8. Use the 8mm socket with the driver handle or a nut driver, line up the old (proper) clip over the hole on the new pad and start driving the screw. Once it's started I switched to a ratchet as it was pretty hard to turn and required some leverage. Tighten down and your done!
<img src="http://lh6.google.com/mattb93/RqLGaYzWkVI/AAAAAAAAB1E/fpxIL1eTHVc/s800/IMG_1014.JPG" />
<img src="http://lh5.google.com/mattb93/RqLGkIzWkXI/AAAAAAAAB1U/J_qtLZEj9_Y/s800/IMG_1016.JPG" />
I was able to complete both pads in about 45 minutes. And after driving on the track today for four 20 minute sessions, they held up beautifully!
07-23-2007, 06:35 PM
#7
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I know, you've mentioned that to me before. But Hawk does not sell pads with the proper clips
They use these as the S4 part number.
Do you sell something more aggressive than the Carbotech Bobcats with the proper clips?
Do you sell something more aggressive than the Carbotech Bobcats with the proper clips?
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07-23-2007, 07:26 PM
#9
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ECS does yes, but they've been on backorder on the HP Plus
They charge more than normal ($150 vs.$133 at tirerack), and I'd put money on the fact they put the clips on the same way I did.
Hawk does not manufacture them with the clip.
I don't feel we should be stuck with one vendor to get Hawk pads, I like to have options.
See the bolt similar to what I used...
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/brakes/pads/ECSB7A4Pads-600x450.jpg">
Hawk does not manufacture them with the clip.
I don't feel we should be stuck with one vendor to get Hawk pads, I like to have options.
See the bolt similar to what I used...
<img src="http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/images/product/brakes/pads/ECSB7A4Pads-600x450.jpg">