kgorman

After a few track events on my b6, I had problems with warped (actually deposits I think) rotors. Basically the stock rotors suck. I was having bad vibrations under hard braking. After two visits and two times having the rotors turned under warranty from the dealer, a new solution had to be found.

I didn't want a BBK mainly because of cost and warranty issues. I wanted a simpler solution. If I decide to stick with my b6, then I might go BBK later, but for now, I just wanted reliable track-capable stopping power.

I STFA and found two basic choices. <A href="http://www.ecstuning.com">ECS</a> or <a href="http://www.frozenrotors.com">Frozen Rotors</a>. Looking at cost, and <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/brakes/msgs/586.phtml">feedback from the forum</a> <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4b6/msgs/264256.phtml"> here too</a> and <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4b6/msgs/242891.phtml">here</a>, I chose the Frozen Rotors. I ordered a full set in order to keep a balanced setup. I was worried (perhaps wrongly) that different braking characteristics front to rear might change the bias. In fact, I felt this at Fernley when running xp8's in front only. The guys at Frozen Rotors recommended this as well (why wouldnt they..). My normal setup for the track will be <a href="http://www.carbotecheng.com/main.htm">Carbotech's</a> not the stock pads. I know ECS would have saved some weight, but I wanted reliability over anything else.

I received my packages, and decided to perform the install myself. I decided to create a simple HOWTO because there is no good guide when STFA that I could find (or google either).

1) do the front rotor install
2) do the rear rotor install
3) bed in the pads
4) drink a beer

<B>Tools:</B>
15mm socket
Torque wrench that can do 195Nm of torque.
Breaker bar that fits 15mm socket.
8mm allen socket (or key)
Smaller ratchet handle
Flat blade screwdrivers (2) medium sized
Mallet (rubber or hammer w/ block of wood)
Jack &amp; jack stands
Socket Cap that fits 8mm allen socket
15mm open end wrench
13mm open end wrench

<B>Parts:</B>
New Front Rotors
New Rear Rotors
front carrier bolts x 4 (N-908-768-01)
rear carrier bolts x 4 (N-910-369-01)

<B>Starting with the FRONT:</B>

Basic steps for front:

1) use Alan L's guide to remove calipers
2) remove the rotor and carrier
3) put rotor back on, replace carrier
4) use Alan L's guide to reassemble calipers

Start off by following this guideline to get the calipers off. This guide is helpful:
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4b6/msgs/142884.phtml">Alan L's guide to brake pad replacement</a>.

Now, you only need to follow as far as getting the caliper off. At this point I also put 1 lugnut back in to hold the rotor in place. Once the caliper is off you need to remove the bolts for the carrier. This requires some torque. I used a breaker bar with a 15mm socket (I think 15mm) and have the car on the jack-stands up enough to get some leverage with the breaker under the car some. You have to lean on it a bit.

Here is a shot of the bolts in question:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0284.jpg">


Once this bolt is loose, remove the carrier, remove the 1 lugnut, and slide off the rotor.

Me holding the carrier:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0286.jpg">

With the caliper, carrier, and rotor removed:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0287.jpg">

After speaking to the Audi service tech, they mentioned that the carrier bolts are supposed to be replaced each time they are loosened. This is because of the extreme torque they are under. Replace the carrier w/ new bolts (see Parts above) and torque to 195Nm.

Now you can put the new rotor on. Be sure to have clean hands and not get a bunch of grease all over the rotor. Follow the direction for the vaning from the included mounting instructions sheet. Once the rotor is in place, put the lugnut back in. Now go ahead and put the carrier back on. Reverse the process for removal. I used 90ft/lbs of torque when re-tightening the carrier bolts. I have no idea if that is the correct torque. Follow Alan L's guide and put the caliper back on. Be sure not to hit the rotor with anything and keep it nice and neat. Repeat for the other side.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0290.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0292.jpg">



<B>Now for the REAR:</B>

The basic steps for the rear are:
1) use Pauls Audipages guide for s8 rears to remove caliper
2) loosen carrier bolts
3) remove rotor
4) put new rotor on, replace carrier
5) reassemble per Pauls Audipages guide.

Using <a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/susp_whls_brake_steer/rearbrakes.html"> Pauls AudiPages Guide</a> to rear brake removal is helpful. Even though it's designed for an s8, most of the Audi rear brakes are similar (including my b6s4). Follow up until you have removed the caliper, and slide out the outside pad.

See here with the caliper removed:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0089.jpg">

Now comes the hard(er) part. Per Pauls guide you need to remove the 8mm allen head bolts on the backside in order to pull out the rotor. This requires either an 8mm allen key and some open ended wrench or pipe for leverage or a allen socket with a hex stud in it so you can use an open ended wrench. This sucker is tight! You will have to alternate between having the key access via the top and the bottom to get the job done. Just be patient. If you use the key, don't strip it. Get a good key. The socket is a better way to go, I have tried both.

Here is a picture of the allen socket + stud:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0003.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0001_3.jpg">

You can see in the above picture how to use a hex stud + socket allen to get at the bolts.

Remove the bolts, you can slide out the old rotor, and slide in the new rotor. If the rotor is stuck, whack it from behind with the mallet once. Replace the bolts with the new ones (see Parts at top) the 8mm allen back up. Torque is 90Nm.

Rotor installed, carrier tightened, caliper ready to be replaced.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/86187/dscn0001_2.jpg">

Follow Pauls Audipages guide to putting the caliper back on. Mount the wheel, etc.

I kept stock pads for all of this, so no need to worry about compressing the pistons, etc. It just all fit back together.

Repeat for the other side. Swig of beer about now.

Get in and pump the brake pedal a couple times.

<b> Bedding the pads</b>

Here is some <a href="http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm">Stoptech Brake Info</a> about bedding, warping, etc.

Now, I am no expert on this, so I called the dudes at Frozen Rotors, Carbotech, and the dealer to get some thoughts. The concensus is basically to do some normal city driving with sporadic stops letting brakes remain fairly cool. Remember, this is the process for STOCK PADS. For track pads, follow the instructions with the pads.

First I went around the block to make sure I didn't leave myself with some braking problem. Once satisfied, I went a drove around a bit, probably 15 or 20 miles with some stop and go and some fwy. I tried to be very linear and smooth with braking to get a good film on the rotors.

Once home, you can now finish that beer.

Hope this helps someone. ;-).

DeutschDriver

they look awfuly purdy now though

Reg Dunlop

The pics suggest that you mounted the rotors such that the slotting for the rears go in the opposite direction from the slotting of the fronts. Is that how they are designed? Or am I misinterpreting your pics?

[edited to use the right terminology - can't really see the vaning from the pics - slotting is what looks backwards]

JDBlueAudiS4

ill take some pics tonight.... i have 5k on mine

Stoodo

It would have been nice for the OEM calipers to be in the Brembo class though.

kgorman

good point about jackstands.

kgorman

take a picture after the bedding process, I will do that tonight. They just look more like regular rotors after that, it's no biggie. People seem to say they wear well.

kgorman

but honestly, I did the change more for reliability and longevity than looks. But good looks are nice too for sure. ;-).

jpc-S4

At least this is what mine are. They buy them from Audi, slot them, then freeze them.

The vaning should be the same as the rotors that are removed...

-JPC

kgorman

I read this and went down there worried about them being backwards. I followed the writing printed on the rotors, but looking at them now, and looking at the printing sheet, they appear to need reversing to fit the 'recommended' direction. I am going to double check the writing on them to make sure.

Good catch Reg.