Is there a good write-up for 02 sensor install?
#7
just did this the other day... Here you go
step 1: make sure you have the right tools. My list was as follows:
7/8" crow foot socket
20" 1/2 drive extension
1/2" 14" breaker bar
1/2" universal joint
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
a couple other 3/8" extensions (6" and 3")
Phillips screwdriver
Flashlight (very useful without direct lighting in the workspace)
LOTS OF TAPE preferably electrical.
long sleeve shirt, rubber banded at the wrists, unless u wanna cut the crap outta your arm.
Of course new O2's + thread grease
Basically you will need about 2 feet total of extension, however i found it easiest when there was some extension after the U-join, just before the crow foot.
Step 2: Move junk outta the way
unscrew the 3 phillips screws on the coolant expansion tank. You shouldnt need to remove the tank or unplug any lines, just unscrew it and move it off to the side. This will allow better access to the O2's
Step 3: Get to crackin
Now finally take your 3+ feet of metallic robot arm and tape every joining point, i know it sounds dumb, but you will kick yourself if you get the crow foot stuck or drop an extension into the depths. Now snake the bar down to the driverside O2. The angle you attack with the extension is important, try to keep the angle of the u-joint less than 45 degrees, otherwise the transmission angle of the force will be very awkward. You do not need to remove the heat shield. (Do the drivers side first because its the hardest) Use your other hand to reach down and guide the crow foot onto the O2. Give the bar a tap to make sure its on there good. Now crank dat back 3 times. Remember lefty loosely. Give the breaker impact, don't put a continual load, you might cause too much torsion on the smaller extension. After fighting it a bit it will break loose, be patient.
Passenger side is easier because there is sooo much extra room to work with.
Once you've cracked the O2's you can loosen by hand. But first follow the wires to the connector on the firewall. Unclip. Now as you loosen the O2's the wires shouldn't tangle up and make it harder to unscrew.
Step 3.5: inspection
Now take out the defeated O2's and gloat... until you realize they are as white as a dry erase board, and you wonder how long you have been running lean. sigh.
Step 4: install new O2's
Take your new O2's grease the threads, and install by hand, one hand tightening the O2 and the other twisting the sensor wires so they dont tangle. Then take your robot arm and give each sensor a good amount of tightening. Now route the sensor wires back to the connectors in the same the path of the old wires. Put the heat wrap around the passenger side wires.
Put the expansion tank back in. Done. whew.
enjoy your better gas mileage and smoother performance.
7/8" crow foot socket
20" 1/2 drive extension
1/2" 14" breaker bar
1/2" universal joint
1/2" to 3/8" adapter
a couple other 3/8" extensions (6" and 3")
Phillips screwdriver
Flashlight (very useful without direct lighting in the workspace)
LOTS OF TAPE preferably electrical.
long sleeve shirt, rubber banded at the wrists, unless u wanna cut the crap outta your arm.
Of course new O2's + thread grease
Basically you will need about 2 feet total of extension, however i found it easiest when there was some extension after the U-join, just before the crow foot.
Step 2: Move junk outta the way
unscrew the 3 phillips screws on the coolant expansion tank. You shouldnt need to remove the tank or unplug any lines, just unscrew it and move it off to the side. This will allow better access to the O2's
Step 3: Get to crackin
Now finally take your 3+ feet of metallic robot arm and tape every joining point, i know it sounds dumb, but you will kick yourself if you get the crow foot stuck or drop an extension into the depths. Now snake the bar down to the driverside O2. The angle you attack with the extension is important, try to keep the angle of the u-joint less than 45 degrees, otherwise the transmission angle of the force will be very awkward. You do not need to remove the heat shield. (Do the drivers side first because its the hardest) Use your other hand to reach down and guide the crow foot onto the O2. Give the bar a tap to make sure its on there good. Now crank dat back 3 times. Remember lefty loosely. Give the breaker impact, don't put a continual load, you might cause too much torsion on the smaller extension. After fighting it a bit it will break loose, be patient.
Passenger side is easier because there is sooo much extra room to work with.
Once you've cracked the O2's you can loosen by hand. But first follow the wires to the connector on the firewall. Unclip. Now as you loosen the O2's the wires shouldn't tangle up and make it harder to unscrew.
Step 3.5: inspection
Now take out the defeated O2's and gloat... until you realize they are as white as a dry erase board, and you wonder how long you have been running lean. sigh.
Step 4: install new O2's
Take your new O2's grease the threads, and install by hand, one hand tightening the O2 and the other twisting the sensor wires so they dont tangle. Then take your robot arm and give each sensor a good amount of tightening. Now route the sensor wires back to the connectors in the same the path of the old wires. Put the heat wrap around the passenger side wires.
Put the expansion tank back in. Done. whew.
enjoy your better gas mileage and smoother performance.
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#8
Thanks alot for taking the time to write that up,.appreciate it..Couple Qs
Where are the Egts? Last i had the coolant tank/ acordian hose off, i saw probes into the dps, without paying attention i just figured they were egts. Would you def recomend 1/2in drive and what not? I know i don't have enough extensions to get down there,have enough 3/8s. Thanks again for the help.
#9
Answers
What you saw were probably the O2 sensors not EGT sensors. Reference the link below for pics you will get it. They are easy to see once you get the coolant tank outta the way. I would recommend 1/2" drive tools simply because i've sheared 3/8" tools in the past way to easily. But im sure 3/8" extensions will work. The crow foot is the bulkiest item, so after that fits in there everything should as well. Make sure you use a breaker bar, dont use a ratcheting socket, you will need to put alot of torque to crack the sensors. Good luck.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2563834.phtml">Reference *click*</a></li></ul>