Here it is! My write up on my Aquamist 2d install / experience / results... (long & BWW)
08-25-2004, 11:44 AM
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AudiWorld Expert
Thread Starter
Here it is! My write up on my Aquamist 2d install / experience / results... (long & BWW)
.
<b>OVERVIEW</b>
Below is information related to the install of a water injection system onto my car, and the results I have viewed. Still with me? Here goes...
<b>WHAT? and WHY?</b>
Water Injection is the process of injecting water (or a water/alcohol mix) into your engine. It is introduced in a very fine mist into the air flow upstream of the intake manifold. Especially on forced induction (turbocharged/supercharged) cars, this process is designed to abosorb heat that is created when that air is compressed. This creates lower Intake Air Temperatures, which can also result in running advanced timing, having lower EGTs, etc.
Note: This process is not to be confused with Intercooler Misting which is the process of spraying the exterior of your intercooler(s) with water.
<b>THE CAR</b>
2002 Audi S4 Avant
APR Stg3 Turbo Kit (K04s, RS4 injectors, etc)
AWE Intercoolers
<b>THE SYSTEM</b>
I chose the Aquamist 2d system. The Aquamist 1s system uses only a single pressure switch to determine when to inject water, and thus it is merely on or off. Thus, the same volume of water is being injected regardless of RPM, or more specifically regardless of the amount of Air or Fuel the car is consuming. In the Aquamist 2d system, there is also a pressure sensor, so you can control a limit that the system will not operate below. Once you are above that set point, this system reads your fuel injector duty cycle and injects water at a fixed ratio to your fuel. This method can ensure that you don't inject too much water at lower RPMs or too little at higher RPMs. With either system, you can still change the size of the injection jet, which will scale the amount of water injected.
Aquamist Website: <a href="http://www.aquamist.co.uk" target="_blank">http://www.aquamist.co.uk</a>
Aquamist 2d System: <a href="http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/806-009/806-009.html" target="_blank">http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/806-009/806-009.html</a>
I purchased the system from my local Aquamist Distributor:
Jason Hassinger - <a href="http://www.hassauto.com" target="_blank">http://www.hassauto.com</a>
In addition to the 2d system, I also purchased the following from Aquamist:
- (2) 0.8mm jets
- 4mm splitter
- 2 meters of 4mm tubing
<b>THE MECHANICS </b>
I did the install myself, with a lot of help from Dave (DAP).
<b>THANKS</b>
- Dave (<a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/users/6924.phtml" target="_blank">DAP</a>) - I'm definitely on the hook to help Dave install his system if he decides to get one, as he was a major help during the entire install process.
- Jason Leone from <a href="http://streetwerke.com" target="_blank">http://streetwerke.com</a>, formally from <a href="http://newdimensions.com" target="_blank">http://newdimensions.com</a> - Jason was a major contributor into making this happen. Between meeting with him while I was out on business in the San Jose CA area seeing systems he had installed, phone conversations, emails, and AW posts (<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1648138.phtml" target="_blank">such as this great one on how to propertly tap the bi-pipe</a>), he promted a lot of my desire to do this as well as a lot of the instruction on how to install it successfully.
- Tony Chick (<a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/users/16886.phtml" target="_blank">nerdhotrod</a>) - Friend and 2003 1.8T Challenge Winner, I tapped Tony's brain for knowledge on various aspects of the project. He's the go-to guy for larger turbo applications, especially for the proper encorporating the rest of the engine's systems.
- Jay Hassinger - Jay was very easy to deal with and got me the system very quickly with no issues. He also had a lot of experience with these systems and shared some tips and various results. If I had run into any install issues, etc, he was one of the guys I'd surely go to for help.
- Audiworld and all of the contributors that have posted their experiences with Aquamist, which helped me through my install. Hopefully this post will likewise help someone else.
- APR ECU Explorer - For allowing me the ability to log my selected 37 variables at once with high sampling rate and thus be able to quantify the results of this project.
<b>SYSTEM CONTENTS</b>
The connection diagram is shown below:
<img src="http://www.aquamist.co.uk/press/806-441/instruction.PNG">
The left side of the diagram begins the system with a water tank (I chose to use my washer fluid resevoir). Aquamist supplies a threaded tubing connector for this connection. Water flows through the 6mm tubing to the next item, the Water Filter. After that, it connects to the input of the pump. The outlet side of the pump has 4mm tubing which goes to a Water Pressure Switch. This switch tells the pump when it needs to operate in order to maintain the desired water pressure in the line. After this, more 4mm tubing connects to the High Speed Solenoid Valve. It is this valve that controls when water is injected into the system. This valve is controlled by the Fuel Injection Amplifier circuit which uses the Fule Injector and the Boost Pressure Switch to determine when to inject water (as descibed above in "THE SYSTEM"). After this valve, tubing connects to a Jet. In this section, I have inserted a Splitter to provide water to both halves of the bi-pipe. There is also a Yellow LED included which connects to alert of a blocked water jet (or other flow obstruction).
Below are some shots of the actual parts.
Everything, including addtional items (jets/splitter/tubing):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00779.jpg">
Water Pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00782.jpg">
Extra Jets and Splitter:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00783.jpg">
Included Jets (Note: Aquamist website states it includes 0.5mm. 0.6mm, and 0.7mm, but as you can see, that's not what came in the package. If I had known that, I would not have needed to purchase two 0.8mm jets)
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00786.jpg">
Boost Pressure Switch:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00788.jpg">
Fuel Injection Amplifier (brains) and Yellow LED:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00789.jpg">
Water Pressure Switch and High Speed Solenoid Valve:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00790.jpg">
Wiring, Relay, Water Filter, Tap for Jets, etc:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00791.jpg">
<b>THE INSTALL</b>
Ok, let's get to work! The install was not quick, but a lot of the time spent was in various prep work, removing/installing the front of the car, lunch, internet, a trip to Home Depot, and of course taking these pictures. Including all of that, we worked for about 9hrs on Sat and 11 on Sun, at which point we had everything together (including bumper) except the wiring - that was done Monday night. Ok, here goes...
We layed everything out in the order it would be connected to get familar with the parts:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00805.jpg">
Removed some parts from the car to get the bi-pipe off:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00806.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00807.jpg">
The Bi-pipe:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00811.jpg">
With the help from Bentley and a DVM, we identified one of the signal wires (White/Yellow) to a fuel injector (#6) at the ECU harness. This is the Ground wire that signals the injector to operate. Thus it connects to the Green wire in the wiring diagram above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00808.jpg">
Here was a 12V wire (black/blue) that tied into the common side of the injectors, and thus the Red wire in the wiring diagram above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00809.jpg">
We removed the Washer Fluid Resevoir after removing the wheel well liner:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00810.jpg">
Here's where we connected to the tank - a 23/64" drill bit worked well for the threads. I chose this location as it was below the "low level" sensor, so I would get a warning to refill, before causing damage to the pump. Also, it was high enough that it provided a gravity feed to where I decided to mount the pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00812.jpg">
Here's a zoomed-out view on where exactly that is located:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00813.jpg">
I had previously scuffed up the surface of the tank so that some epoxy could adhere and ensure a water-tight fiting:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00815.jpg">
Here are 3 shots showing where this connection is located relative to the car, etc:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00820.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00821.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00822.jpg">
I originally planned to connect the tubing like below, but the water filter pressed against the car. The elbows are from Home Depot and are 1/4" which sufficiently fits the 6mm tubing. Doing this again, I would have bought a few elbows for 6mm and a few for 4mm in advance of install, as they're not that readily available (ie not on a Sunday evening after 6PM)
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00826.jpg">
This config worked out better:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00828.jpg">
Here's the bracket I made for the pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00824.jpg">
And the bracket mounted and the pump in it's location:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00827.jpg">
In addition to the bolts, we also ran two strips of 3M Acrylic Plus double sided adhesive to the mounting surface. We figured this would help absorb some vibrations:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00829.jpg">
With the Intercooler removed, here is the setup viewed from the front of the car:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00837.jpg">
Ok, now on to tackle the Bi-pipe. I had already decided I wasn't going to mess around and screw this up, so I went to Sears and picked up a Drill Press. I had always looked at it in the past, but now finally could justify the purchase. This was one of their "Special Purchase" items where they include a drill press vise, as well as some sanding bits - all for $99!
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00830.jpg">
Following Jason's <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1648138.phtml" target="_blank">post</a> referenced above, I decided where the jets would go and drilled through my Bi-pipe. I'll have to look back at my drill bit case to see which size I ultimately used as the final bit (and update this post). I figured this out by drilling and tapping a piece of test metal first. I also chamfered the top edge of the hole with a larger bit for the jet's o-ring to seat against properly.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00834.jpg">
And after tapping (likewise, I bought a tap wrench to properly support the tap):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00835.jpg">
The tubing from the pump comes up to the Water Pressure Switch, and then contnues around...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00840.jpg">
...to the High Speed Solenoid Valve, and then to the Splitter...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00842.jpg">
...one side goes to the driver's side of the Bi-pipe where a jet is installed...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00839.jpg">
...and one side goes to the passenger's side of the Bi-pipe to the other jet:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00844.jpg">
Here some wiring is added as well as the rubber boot on the pressure switch contacts:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00845.jpg">
The Boost Pressure Switch is mounted with the provided bracket (but purchased bolts and nylon-insert lock nuts instead of the screws provided) just inside secondary firewall:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00847.jpg">
All wires are coverd with either the provided shielding or I added shrink tubing (without shrinking it) to give a clean, stock appearance. I drilled a hole to bring the wiring through the secondary firewall and finished it off with a grommet to protect the wires. I clipped off the rubber tip to use that passageway into the ECU box:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00848.jpg">
I will also take pics and update this post with:
- The FIA unit inside the car as well as the yellow LED and switch that I added (to turn the system off). They will reside on the the lower left section of the driver's knee bolster.
UPDATE 8/30/04 - Here they are:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00910.JPG">
The Yellow LED and Swith are mounted in a modified Radio Shack project box, and that unit and the FIA unit are mounted on either side of the OBDII port. I can see all 3 LEDs from the driver's position through the steering wheel:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00908.JPG">
- The engine bay with all covers in their proper locations.
UPDATE 8/30/04 - Here it is, looks mostly stock:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00904.JPG">
<b>OPERATION</b>
There's not much documentation on how the system should operate, so I figured I'd add some items here so you know if yours is working properly:
- When you first start the car or apply power, the yellow LED lights up for a few seconds then turns off.
- When you first start the car or apply power, the pump will run until it pressurizes the water line to the set point of the Water Pressure Sensor. It will then turn off until needed.
- When you start the engine, the Green LED will flicker corresponding to the fuel injector duty cycle.
- Once you boost pressure goes above the boost pressure switch setting, the Red LED will come on solid to indicate that water injection is occuring. (Note: If you'd like to see how much water is being injected, as it varies with the fuel injection, Aquamist sells the DDS2 display which uses a flow sensor and bar graph to show the actual flow).
<b>THE RESULTS</b>
Currently the temperature in my area is rather cool for August. This is not the weather that I bought the system for. I eagerly await some 90+ degree days to fully test this out. That being said, in the past two days I took two sets of logs, and here's what they show...
My standard test location:
3rd Gear
45mph (3200 RPMs) cruise control then WOT
2 logs of each in opposite direction on same stretch.
RED: Aquamist Off
BLUE: Aquamist On
Temp: 71F
Note 1: Aquamist has ~20 degree lower IAT temps at ~6800 RPMs.
Note 2: The Aquamist run has IAT ending up less than 10 degrees more than at the start of the WOT 3rd gear run - It's as if the turbos are not adding any heat to the system!
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_3rdgear.gif">
Today I tried to capture 4th gear, expecting to see difference magnified due to longer log time. Likewise, multiple gear runs would really show this off. Consider if I had started this 4th gear run at the end of the previous 3rd gear run. My starting temps of this run would already be 20F cooler, and by the end of this run I could be up to 40F cooler than a 3rd & 4th run without Aquamist. Now continue that thought and add in 1st and 2nd gears, and the difference gets bigger. (UPDATE 8/30/04 - I logged and added these results below) And today the temp was a chilly 61F - imagine on a hot day:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_4thgear.gif">
I didn't use cruise control above to start the runs at the same speed, so one starts to heat up earlier in the RPM range than the other. Below, I subtracted 2.9 degrees so that both graphs would line up at the beginning (~3200-3800 RPMs):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_4thgear_adjusted.gif">
UPDATE 8/30/04 - I logged a pair of 1st-4th gear runs (10mph-120mph) in 87F weather. I did this with Aquamist off, then again with it on, both times starting at the exact same location. Below are the results, once graphed with time as the x-axis and the other time with MPH. Notice the extrem difference - across this range, IAT increases by ~50F (127F to 177F) without Aquamist, but with Aquamist IAT only increases by ~20F (126F to 146F). As early as 40mph, there begins a drastic difference in the Intake Air Temperature.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_10-120mph_vsTime.gif">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_10-120mph_vsMPH.gif">
Also, it should be noted that these IAT reductions are compounded on top of the reductions I already had gained by changing out my Stock Intercoolers for a set of AWE Intercoolers. Here was the difference I saw when I made that change. The Blue below is the AWE ICs, which is the same as the Red above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/ic/iat_ic.gif">
<b>MISC NOTES</b>
- The immediate impact to other variables was not as obvious in the graphs, but I expect to capture this better in warmer days
- Since the 2d system works off of Fuel Injector duty cycle, it is important to analyze the duty cycle of your injectors running in your car. If you have large injectors, they may only be running at lower duty cycles to supply the required fuel, and thus that could impact your volume of water injected. Jasone Leone has <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1723468.phtml" target="_blank">posted</a> that he may have something to address this in the future.
- The Purple wire outputs the Fuel Injector duty cycle where 0-5V corresponds to 0-100%. I might use this signal and make some sort of display to monitor my injectors. I was thinking about about an analog to digital converter with a pair of 7-segment displays and drivers so I could read out 00-99%. We'll see.
- I'm currently using standard blue washer fluid (water/methonal). I may investigate variations of pure water to water/methonal mixes. I believe Aquamist suggests 70%/30% Water/Methonal, with a max of 50%/50%.
- I am currently using a pair of 0.8mm jets. This is based off of other's experiences posted here with this system and K04s / RS4 injectors. The flow calculations suggest that these jets might be too large for what the pump can supply, so for now there is no reason to go any bigger, as I believe my current limitation is the pump.
<b>GOOFS</b>
- I was unfamilar with how fuel injectors are typically driven, so when I saw in the Bentley that all 6 had one common connection, and 6 individual connections, I assumed that the common one was the ground. Well it wasn't, it was the other way around. Testing the Purple wire (as well as observing the Green LED) showed that the system thought the fuel injectors were doing something they obviously were not, such as being on constant when the car was in ACC mode.
- The MAP sensor threads in the Bi-pipe became stripped, so we had to go out and buy a tap and slightly larger screws and retap them - luckily I just had a good amount of practice tapping
<b>WHAT's NEXT?</b>
- I still need to mount the FIA, Yellow LED, and override switch to the knee bolster.
- My switch currently only removes power to the pump, however if the pump has already pressurized the line, then when the sensors dictate, the circuitry still opens the solenoid and injects water until that built up pressure is relieved - so I might change how my switch is implemented. I need to take into consideration the winter and what precautions I should take. I could just put a switch in parallel with the boost sensor so it would be as if I never reached the boost set point, but if I only do that, then the pump will still maintain the desired pressure, which I want to control as well. We'll see.
- Capture some more performance data. I may dyno it with and without the aquamist on, but not so sure if the gains will be as obvious as with a multi-gear run, such as at the drag strip - so perhaps I will log there instead / in addition.
- I will see if I can add any more timing if the cooling allows that.
- Consider adding accumulator(s) or another pump if needed as the flow numbers suggest this pump is maxed out with these jets at higher RPMs (higher fuel injector duty cycle).
- The Water Pressure sensor/switch is adjustable and preset to 6bar, per the docs. I may check this and see if I can increase it a tad as the pump is rated at 7bar.
Ok, that's about all. If I decided to reread what I wrote, I'll add anything I noticed that I missed. Hope you enjoyed the reading.
<b>OVERVIEW</b>
Below is information related to the install of a water injection system onto my car, and the results I have viewed. Still with me? Here goes...
<b>WHAT? and WHY?</b>
Water Injection is the process of injecting water (or a water/alcohol mix) into your engine. It is introduced in a very fine mist into the air flow upstream of the intake manifold. Especially on forced induction (turbocharged/supercharged) cars, this process is designed to abosorb heat that is created when that air is compressed. This creates lower Intake Air Temperatures, which can also result in running advanced timing, having lower EGTs, etc.
Note: This process is not to be confused with Intercooler Misting which is the process of spraying the exterior of your intercooler(s) with water.
<b>THE CAR</b>
2002 Audi S4 Avant
APR Stg3 Turbo Kit (K04s, RS4 injectors, etc)
AWE Intercoolers
<b>THE SYSTEM</b>
I chose the Aquamist 2d system. The Aquamist 1s system uses only a single pressure switch to determine when to inject water, and thus it is merely on or off. Thus, the same volume of water is being injected regardless of RPM, or more specifically regardless of the amount of Air or Fuel the car is consuming. In the Aquamist 2d system, there is also a pressure sensor, so you can control a limit that the system will not operate below. Once you are above that set point, this system reads your fuel injector duty cycle and injects water at a fixed ratio to your fuel. This method can ensure that you don't inject too much water at lower RPMs or too little at higher RPMs. With either system, you can still change the size of the injection jet, which will scale the amount of water injected.
Aquamist Website: <a href="http://www.aquamist.co.uk" target="_blank">http://www.aquamist.co.uk</a>
Aquamist 2d System: <a href="http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/806-009/806-009.html" target="_blank">http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/806-009/806-009.html</a>
I purchased the system from my local Aquamist Distributor:
Jason Hassinger - <a href="http://www.hassauto.com" target="_blank">http://www.hassauto.com</a>
In addition to the 2d system, I also purchased the following from Aquamist:
- (2) 0.8mm jets
- 4mm splitter
- 2 meters of 4mm tubing
<b>THE MECHANICS </b>
I did the install myself, with a lot of help from Dave (DAP).
<b>THANKS</b>
- Dave (<a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/users/6924.phtml" target="_blank">DAP</a>) - I'm definitely on the hook to help Dave install his system if he decides to get one, as he was a major help during the entire install process.
- Jason Leone from <a href="http://streetwerke.com" target="_blank">http://streetwerke.com</a>, formally from <a href="http://newdimensions.com" target="_blank">http://newdimensions.com</a> - Jason was a major contributor into making this happen. Between meeting with him while I was out on business in the San Jose CA area seeing systems he had installed, phone conversations, emails, and AW posts (<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1648138.phtml" target="_blank">such as this great one on how to propertly tap the bi-pipe</a>), he promted a lot of my desire to do this as well as a lot of the instruction on how to install it successfully.
- Tony Chick (<a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/users/16886.phtml" target="_blank">nerdhotrod</a>) - Friend and 2003 1.8T Challenge Winner, I tapped Tony's brain for knowledge on various aspects of the project. He's the go-to guy for larger turbo applications, especially for the proper encorporating the rest of the engine's systems.
- Jay Hassinger - Jay was very easy to deal with and got me the system very quickly with no issues. He also had a lot of experience with these systems and shared some tips and various results. If I had run into any install issues, etc, he was one of the guys I'd surely go to for help.
- Audiworld and all of the contributors that have posted their experiences with Aquamist, which helped me through my install. Hopefully this post will likewise help someone else.
- APR ECU Explorer - For allowing me the ability to log my selected 37 variables at once with high sampling rate and thus be able to quantify the results of this project.
<b>SYSTEM CONTENTS</b>
The connection diagram is shown below:
<img src="http://www.aquamist.co.uk/press/806-441/instruction.PNG">
The left side of the diagram begins the system with a water tank (I chose to use my washer fluid resevoir). Aquamist supplies a threaded tubing connector for this connection. Water flows through the 6mm tubing to the next item, the Water Filter. After that, it connects to the input of the pump. The outlet side of the pump has 4mm tubing which goes to a Water Pressure Switch. This switch tells the pump when it needs to operate in order to maintain the desired water pressure in the line. After this, more 4mm tubing connects to the High Speed Solenoid Valve. It is this valve that controls when water is injected into the system. This valve is controlled by the Fuel Injection Amplifier circuit which uses the Fule Injector and the Boost Pressure Switch to determine when to inject water (as descibed above in "THE SYSTEM"). After this valve, tubing connects to a Jet. In this section, I have inserted a Splitter to provide water to both halves of the bi-pipe. There is also a Yellow LED included which connects to alert of a blocked water jet (or other flow obstruction).
Below are some shots of the actual parts.
Everything, including addtional items (jets/splitter/tubing):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00779.jpg">
Water Pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00782.jpg">
Extra Jets and Splitter:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00783.jpg">
Included Jets (Note: Aquamist website states it includes 0.5mm. 0.6mm, and 0.7mm, but as you can see, that's not what came in the package. If I had known that, I would not have needed to purchase two 0.8mm jets)
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00786.jpg">
Boost Pressure Switch:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00788.jpg">
Fuel Injection Amplifier (brains) and Yellow LED:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00789.jpg">
Water Pressure Switch and High Speed Solenoid Valve:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00790.jpg">
Wiring, Relay, Water Filter, Tap for Jets, etc:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00791.jpg">
<b>THE INSTALL</b>
Ok, let's get to work! The install was not quick, but a lot of the time spent was in various prep work, removing/installing the front of the car, lunch, internet, a trip to Home Depot, and of course taking these pictures. Including all of that, we worked for about 9hrs on Sat and 11 on Sun, at which point we had everything together (including bumper) except the wiring - that was done Monday night. Ok, here goes...
We layed everything out in the order it would be connected to get familar with the parts:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00805.jpg">
Removed some parts from the car to get the bi-pipe off:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00806.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00807.jpg">
The Bi-pipe:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00811.jpg">
With the help from Bentley and a DVM, we identified one of the signal wires (White/Yellow) to a fuel injector (#6) at the ECU harness. This is the Ground wire that signals the injector to operate. Thus it connects to the Green wire in the wiring diagram above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00808.jpg">
Here was a 12V wire (black/blue) that tied into the common side of the injectors, and thus the Red wire in the wiring diagram above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00809.jpg">
We removed the Washer Fluid Resevoir after removing the wheel well liner:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00810.jpg">
Here's where we connected to the tank - a 23/64" drill bit worked well for the threads. I chose this location as it was below the "low level" sensor, so I would get a warning to refill, before causing damage to the pump. Also, it was high enough that it provided a gravity feed to where I decided to mount the pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00812.jpg">
Here's a zoomed-out view on where exactly that is located:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00813.jpg">
I had previously scuffed up the surface of the tank so that some epoxy could adhere and ensure a water-tight fiting:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00815.jpg">
Here are 3 shots showing where this connection is located relative to the car, etc:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00820.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00821.jpg">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00822.jpg">
I originally planned to connect the tubing like below, but the water filter pressed against the car. The elbows are from Home Depot and are 1/4" which sufficiently fits the 6mm tubing. Doing this again, I would have bought a few elbows for 6mm and a few for 4mm in advance of install, as they're not that readily available (ie not on a Sunday evening after 6PM)
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00826.jpg">
This config worked out better:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00828.jpg">
Here's the bracket I made for the pump:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00824.jpg">
And the bracket mounted and the pump in it's location:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00827.jpg">
In addition to the bolts, we also ran two strips of 3M Acrylic Plus double sided adhesive to the mounting surface. We figured this would help absorb some vibrations:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00829.jpg">
With the Intercooler removed, here is the setup viewed from the front of the car:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00837.jpg">
Ok, now on to tackle the Bi-pipe. I had already decided I wasn't going to mess around and screw this up, so I went to Sears and picked up a Drill Press. I had always looked at it in the past, but now finally could justify the purchase. This was one of their "Special Purchase" items where they include a drill press vise, as well as some sanding bits - all for $99!
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00830.jpg">
Following Jason's <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1648138.phtml" target="_blank">post</a> referenced above, I decided where the jets would go and drilled through my Bi-pipe. I'll have to look back at my drill bit case to see which size I ultimately used as the final bit (and update this post). I figured this out by drilling and tapping a piece of test metal first. I also chamfered the top edge of the hole with a larger bit for the jet's o-ring to seat against properly.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00834.jpg">
And after tapping (likewise, I bought a tap wrench to properly support the tap):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00835.jpg">
The tubing from the pump comes up to the Water Pressure Switch, and then contnues around...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00840.jpg">
...to the High Speed Solenoid Valve, and then to the Splitter...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00842.jpg">
...one side goes to the driver's side of the Bi-pipe where a jet is installed...
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00839.jpg">
...and one side goes to the passenger's side of the Bi-pipe to the other jet:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00844.jpg">
Here some wiring is added as well as the rubber boot on the pressure switch contacts:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00845.jpg">
The Boost Pressure Switch is mounted with the provided bracket (but purchased bolts and nylon-insert lock nuts instead of the screws provided) just inside secondary firewall:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00847.jpg">
All wires are coverd with either the provided shielding or I added shrink tubing (without shrinking it) to give a clean, stock appearance. I drilled a hole to bring the wiring through the secondary firewall and finished it off with a grommet to protect the wires. I clipped off the rubber tip to use that passageway into the ECU box:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/dsc00848.jpg">
I will also take pics and update this post with:
- The FIA unit inside the car as well as the yellow LED and switch that I added (to turn the system off). They will reside on the the lower left section of the driver's knee bolster.
UPDATE 8/30/04 - Here they are:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00910.JPG">
The Yellow LED and Swith are mounted in a modified Radio Shack project box, and that unit and the FIA unit are mounted on either side of the OBDII port. I can see all 3 LEDs from the driver's position through the steering wheel:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00908.JPG">
- The engine bay with all covers in their proper locations.
UPDATE 8/30/04 - Here it is, looks mostly stock:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/DSC00904.JPG">
<b>OPERATION</b>
There's not much documentation on how the system should operate, so I figured I'd add some items here so you know if yours is working properly:
- When you first start the car or apply power, the yellow LED lights up for a few seconds then turns off.
- When you first start the car or apply power, the pump will run until it pressurizes the water line to the set point of the Water Pressure Sensor. It will then turn off until needed.
- When you start the engine, the Green LED will flicker corresponding to the fuel injector duty cycle.
- Once you boost pressure goes above the boost pressure switch setting, the Red LED will come on solid to indicate that water injection is occuring. (Note: If you'd like to see how much water is being injected, as it varies with the fuel injection, Aquamist sells the DDS2 display which uses a flow sensor and bar graph to show the actual flow).
<b>THE RESULTS</b>
Currently the temperature in my area is rather cool for August. This is not the weather that I bought the system for. I eagerly await some 90+ degree days to fully test this out. That being said, in the past two days I took two sets of logs, and here's what they show...
My standard test location:
3rd Gear
45mph (3200 RPMs) cruise control then WOT
2 logs of each in opposite direction on same stretch.
RED: Aquamist Off
BLUE: Aquamist On
Temp: 71F
Note 1: Aquamist has ~20 degree lower IAT temps at ~6800 RPMs.
Note 2: The Aquamist run has IAT ending up less than 10 degrees more than at the start of the WOT 3rd gear run - It's as if the turbos are not adding any heat to the system!
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_3rdgear.gif">
Today I tried to capture 4th gear, expecting to see difference magnified due to longer log time. Likewise, multiple gear runs would really show this off. Consider if I had started this 4th gear run at the end of the previous 3rd gear run. My starting temps of this run would already be 20F cooler, and by the end of this run I could be up to 40F cooler than a 3rd & 4th run without Aquamist. Now continue that thought and add in 1st and 2nd gears, and the difference gets bigger. (UPDATE 8/30/04 - I logged and added these results below) And today the temp was a chilly 61F - imagine on a hot day:
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_4thgear.gif">
I didn't use cruise control above to start the runs at the same speed, so one starts to heat up earlier in the RPM range than the other. Below, I subtracted 2.9 degrees so that both graphs would line up at the beginning (~3200-3800 RPMs):
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_4thgear_adjusted.gif">
UPDATE 8/30/04 - I logged a pair of 1st-4th gear runs (10mph-120mph) in 87F weather. I did this with Aquamist off, then again with it on, both times starting at the exact same location. Below are the results, once graphed with time as the x-axis and the other time with MPH. Notice the extrem difference - across this range, IAT increases by ~50F (127F to 177F) without Aquamist, but with Aquamist IAT only increases by ~20F (126F to 146F). As early as 40mph, there begins a drastic difference in the Intake Air Temperature.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_10-120mph_vsTime.gif">
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/aquamist/iat_10-120mph_vsMPH.gif">
Also, it should be noted that these IAT reductions are compounded on top of the reductions I already had gained by changing out my Stock Intercoolers for a set of AWE Intercoolers. Here was the difference I saw when I made that change. The Blue below is the AWE ICs, which is the same as the Red above.
<img src="http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/ic/iat_ic.gif">
<b>MISC NOTES</b>
- The immediate impact to other variables was not as obvious in the graphs, but I expect to capture this better in warmer days
- Since the 2d system works off of Fuel Injector duty cycle, it is important to analyze the duty cycle of your injectors running in your car. If you have large injectors, they may only be running at lower duty cycles to supply the required fuel, and thus that could impact your volume of water injected. Jasone Leone has <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/1723468.phtml" target="_blank">posted</a> that he may have something to address this in the future.
- The Purple wire outputs the Fuel Injector duty cycle where 0-5V corresponds to 0-100%. I might use this signal and make some sort of display to monitor my injectors. I was thinking about about an analog to digital converter with a pair of 7-segment displays and drivers so I could read out 00-99%. We'll see.
- I'm currently using standard blue washer fluid (water/methonal). I may investigate variations of pure water to water/methonal mixes. I believe Aquamist suggests 70%/30% Water/Methonal, with a max of 50%/50%.
- I am currently using a pair of 0.8mm jets. This is based off of other's experiences posted here with this system and K04s / RS4 injectors. The flow calculations suggest that these jets might be too large for what the pump can supply, so for now there is no reason to go any bigger, as I believe my current limitation is the pump.
<b>GOOFS</b>
- I was unfamilar with how fuel injectors are typically driven, so when I saw in the Bentley that all 6 had one common connection, and 6 individual connections, I assumed that the common one was the ground. Well it wasn't, it was the other way around. Testing the Purple wire (as well as observing the Green LED) showed that the system thought the fuel injectors were doing something they obviously were not, such as being on constant when the car was in ACC mode.
- The MAP sensor threads in the Bi-pipe became stripped, so we had to go out and buy a tap and slightly larger screws and retap them - luckily I just had a good amount of practice tapping
<b>WHAT's NEXT?</b>
- I still need to mount the FIA, Yellow LED, and override switch to the knee bolster.
- My switch currently only removes power to the pump, however if the pump has already pressurized the line, then when the sensors dictate, the circuitry still opens the solenoid and injects water until that built up pressure is relieved - so I might change how my switch is implemented. I need to take into consideration the winter and what precautions I should take. I could just put a switch in parallel with the boost sensor so it would be as if I never reached the boost set point, but if I only do that, then the pump will still maintain the desired pressure, which I want to control as well. We'll see.
- Capture some more performance data. I may dyno it with and without the aquamist on, but not so sure if the gains will be as obvious as with a multi-gear run, such as at the drag strip - so perhaps I will log there instead / in addition.
- I will see if I can add any more timing if the cooling allows that.
- Consider adding accumulator(s) or another pump if needed as the flow numbers suggest this pump is maxed out with these jets at higher RPMs (higher fuel injector duty cycle).
- The Water Pressure sensor/switch is adjustable and preset to 6bar, per the docs. I may check this and see if I can increase it a tad as the pump is rated at 7bar.
Ok, that's about all. If I decided to reread what I wrote, I'll add anything I noticed that I missed. Hope you enjoyed the reading.
)
