J.Moss@TorqueFactory

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/kitdetailoneside.jpg">

This shows one side of the kit(L to R):
-Goodridge DOT brake line with red sleeve. The sleeve keep dirt and grime from getting between the braided stainless sleeve and the Teflon tube.
-StaSis floating mounting hat and endurance racing rotor. For this car we used the 14" monster! This is the same quality rotor that you would see on 24 hour endurance racing cars!
-Alcon MonoBlock six piston caliper. Hard to see but this caliper has dual built in bridges and dust seals(more on this later).
-High Quality street able pads. IMO with such a big rotor you do not have to run a very aggressive pad. i.e. if you had OEM rotors you would have to run a very aggressive pad that operates at very elevated temps. In this case a less radical pad can be used due to the better cooling on the mango 14."
-Two high grade Allen headed bolts with "Schnor" locking washers.
-Two spacers(used with the 14" kit).
-Sexy StaSis caliper bracket.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/allbrakesoff.jpg">
This shows hub area with all factory brake hardware removed. (This car had a popular stage 3 Porsche based kit... Was removed for better performance-nuff said.)

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/vaccap.jpg">
I have found that using vacuum caps to keep the fluid from leaking out really helps to keep the mess to a minimum.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/splashsheild.jpg">
To install the big rotors you will need to remove the snow/splash shield. Due to the slotted rotors this shield has minimal functionality. The slots allow the water/snow to escape easily, not to mention that the rotor will run cooler.
If this rotor was not slotted the braking would be a bit scary whenever the rotors got wet. At least until they were wiped clean.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/cu800forhub.jpg">
The rust should be removed to give a nice flat surface. Than I like to use some anti-seize paste like this excellent product. This will make future service very easy.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/loctiteonthreads.jpg">
I like to use Loctite on all threaded fastener for 2 reasons.
1. It is a locking feature. Not important here as the bolt has a built in locking feature.
2. It seals the thread against water and corrosive brake dust. It will be easier to remove down the road.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/sexytqwrench.jpg">
Installing and torquing on the StaSis caliper mounting bracket. Check out my sexy torque wrench!

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/floatingpict.jpg">
The beauty is in the details. This is a really nice and simple floating rotor and hat assembly. Much time and development went into making this package vibration free at ANY reasonable temp.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/cu1100onpad.1.jpg">
cu1100(good for 2000 degrees F) Anti-seize on the back of the pads. Learned this trick from some Volvo techs as a way to stop Volvo brakes from squealing!... Make sure not to get this on any of the friction surfaces!
Have seen some techs use CV grease, this will work short term, but has a low temperature threshold relative to use on brakes.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/mono6inst14rtr.jpg">
Mount the rotor. I use a couple of lugs to hold it in place. Than mount the calipers using the spacers, bolts and locking washers.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/shotofpistons.jpg">
Six piston money shot. These calipers have a very interesting and unique AFAIK dust shield system. There is the main piston seal that works with the hydraulic pressure to allow piston movement. There is another low tension o-ring dirt/dust scraper that keeps dirt away from the main seal. This system is superior to a conventional dust boot in a few ways:
1. Seal is located within caliper to prevent heat from pads from damaging it.
2. Dust boots have been know to become brittle and torn within a year if the pads temperature are high enough

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/oembracket.1.jpg">
Mounted the brake hose with the bracket this way. When I turned the wheel from lock to lock was not able to get a comfortable distance from the drive-shaft.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/bracketmoded.jpg">
Found that I could loosen the 10mm headed bolt, and bend the bracket to give a better angle. Please try to turn the steering from lock to lock to ensure no binding and clearance on ALL parts. THESE ARE YOUR BRAKES!

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/bleedmono6.jpg">
Bleeding mono6 Alcon caliper is like any 4 or six piston caliper. There is an inner and outer bleed valve per caliper. I use a pressure bleeder, as I am not happy with the old pump method. Pumping the pedal beyond normal travel can hurt the piston seal in the master cylinder.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/mono6bhinds8.jpg">
This car had factory S8 wheels for a stealthy look. Compared to the previous "Stage 3" brake kit that was on the car this system has MUCH better feedback for the driver. No pedal pulsation when hot. And gets the babes.

Feel free to email me with any questions as I am very happy to offer to our community this excellent product.

Jeff Moss

Attn: Brake Gurus, If I have missed anything please email me. I will edit this to include any relevant details or information missed!

Edit-
Please take note that w/o the splash sheild the wheel speed sensor is close to the rotor. For almost all sane use this does not seem to be a problem. If the car is a serious track car 4-6 inches of Goodridge TEXTALU or FLAMEGUARD should be used to protect from heat.
Please let me know at the time of purchase and I can arrange to have it included.

J4SON

Dust boots got very brittle and crumbled away on my stock calipers.

MelloYelloS4:Indkted

Also, how much is the kit?

Thanks. =)

bugzy SoCalEuro.com

is this kit dyno tested? should i see any hp increase? would you think 15 whp is possible?

r1eater

Like Whoa!

ryoung

One difference between my Alcon TA-6 monoblock and your Alcon Mono-6 is the dust seals. The TA-6 has none.

TA-6 caliper
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/alconta6_b.jpg">

Mono-6 caliper
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/15175/shotofpistons.jpg">

I've seen the dust boots on some calipers not just get brittle, but actually burn away on the track. I was a little worried about the lack of dust boots on the TA-6, but I've had zero problems with these calipers in 3 years, including 3 salty Pennsylvania winters. I am careful, though, to wash away any dust on the pistons with brake cleaner before I push the pistons back in when changing pads. With the design of the dust seals on the Mono-6, it looks like they have a good chance to survive track use.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/alconta6_a.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/alconta6_c.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/Alcon_new.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/s8_hre_9.jpg">

Note that the TA-6 has no bridge, and I asssume that the Mono-6 requires pulling the caliper to change pads. Also, what pad does the Mono-6 use? The TA-6 uses either the Pagid 1903 or the Ferodo FRP3014.

Audis or VWs 4Life

I assume your using stock hydralic components (mastercylender etc)

Any brake bias adjustment issues now that you have a really strong set up front, versus the rear?

ryoung

Brake bias definitely is an issue, especialy with a 14" rotor. Note that I installed the Stasis Track Sport rear rotors (for an S4!) on my S8 to avoid a major change in bias.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/rotors_rear.jpg">

Even going from a 280 to a 298mm rotor, they still look tiny in a 20" wheel.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/acid1b.jpg">

You could also experiment with different pads front and rear. For the track, perhaps the Pagid RS4-4 Orange in the front and the Pagid RS19 Black in the rear. Finding suitable street pads would probably be more difficult.

Pagid Compounds: cf vs temp
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/17157/pagidcompounds.jpg">

O.W. Kenobi

My grandfather gave it to me, and I used it for many years until just recently, when I got a new Craftsman one for Christmas. I don't know how many people asked me, "what the hell is that thing?" LOL

WindyCityS4

Did you follow them verbatim? I like the idea of tilting the brake line bracket. I adjusted the banjo fitting to achieve the same result, but my guess is your way is faster and cleaner. I found golf tees plug the brake lines very well.

Note to others, the 332mm kit fits without having to remove the brake shield. Also, I have not had any brake squeak and I did not add anything to the back of the pads.