Brake rotor questions
#11
LOL, 1/4 i'm with ya. You gonna make me go back out there and take those rotors off aren't you?
Well the best I can do now is say that 1/2 of the picture is painted because RF rotor looks exactly the same as the LF.
#12
Negative on torque specs. I put them at 89 every time I remove and replace wheels.
I'm religious about this because my fronts during track days loosen after every session. They are to spec right now.
#13
do you torque opposing lugs, or in a circle?
if you torque them one by one in a circle, like clockwise, that could be bad.
Better to go opposing lugs while torquing.
Assuming you do that, I'd say your rotors are warped. The grooves are pretty normal as the OEM rotors are soft.
Give me a call/email and I can tell you about some options.
Better to go opposing lugs while torquing.
Assuming you do that, I'd say your rotors are warped. The grooves are pretty normal as the OEM rotors are soft.
Give me a call/email and I can tell you about some options.
#14
Those rotors look fine, except --->
---> you probably did some max braking without prior warm-up or pad bedding. Now you have uneven pad material transfer to the rotors. Three ways to overcome this:
1) Wait until normal traffic use eventually grinds the uneven deposit off, or
2) Have the rotors <b>ground</b> (not machined), or
3) Bed in the pads by gradually warming the brakes with increasing, gradual application until they reach high temperature. Then perform several max brake applications by gradual, increasing pedal pressure (don't "hit" the pedal) to onset of ABS. This will transfer an even coat of pad material to the rotors. The shudder may become even worse during this process, but it will ultimately (and rather suddenly) disappear. It feels like abuse of the brakes. Now drive home with, if possible, no brake application until the brakes are cool and let them sit overnight with e-brake off.
Rotors rarely warp, but uneven pad transfer is very common with spirited drivers, particularly with aggressive pads. You can easily check for warp:
Put car on jack stands, all wheels off. Start engine, put into second, let idle. --->
Hold small screw driver to caliper so tip just touches rotor friction surface lightly. You can detect minute run-out that way.
1) Wait until normal traffic use eventually grinds the uneven deposit off, or
2) Have the rotors <b>ground</b> (not machined), or
3) Bed in the pads by gradually warming the brakes with increasing, gradual application until they reach high temperature. Then perform several max brake applications by gradual, increasing pedal pressure (don't "hit" the pedal) to onset of ABS. This will transfer an even coat of pad material to the rotors. The shudder may become even worse during this process, but it will ultimately (and rather suddenly) disappear. It feels like abuse of the brakes. Now drive home with, if possible, no brake application until the brakes are cool and let them sit overnight with e-brake off.
Rotors rarely warp, but uneven pad transfer is very common with spirited drivers, particularly with aggressive pads. You can easily check for warp:
Put car on jack stands, all wheels off. Start engine, put into second, let idle. --->
Hold small screw driver to caliper so tip just touches rotor friction surface lightly. You can detect minute run-out that way.
#15
Re: Brake rotor questions
You toasted your brakes. They look exactly like mine after 4 - 30 minute sessions at the track.
Try watering the rotors (when cold) and letting them sit overnight or longer. The pad material that has built up will get undermined at the edges as the rust starts on the rotor surface.
The next time you brake, some will come off and the feel of braking improves. Hopefully the process continues until it feels normal again.
Look at the edges of your pads though, chunks are missing - mine are the same. I'm putting track pads on the next time.
Try watering the rotors (when cold) and letting them sit overnight or longer. The pad material that has built up will get undermined at the edges as the rust starts on the rotor surface.
The next time you brake, some will come off and the feel of braking improves. Hopefully the process continues until it feels normal again.
Look at the edges of your pads though, chunks are missing - mine are the same. I'm putting track pads on the next time.
#18
AudiWorld Super User
Yeah, just a thought.
If you have a sticking caliper, then the side you can't see could be totally destroyed since that is the piston side.
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