Cerveza

The sensor is on the drivers side differential housing. $43 seems high, but I guess it is all about supply. This is not the ABS speed sensor.

My wires were severd. I don't know how exactly but it may have happened during a O2 sensor or Piggie Pipe install. Apparently these wires run on top of the tranny bell housing? Anyway, it was a very painful process to isolate my problem. Took it to 4 different people and they all had different diagnosis.

Good luck.

AC

Funkdariaa

Having a hard time remembering what it looks like there. It's been a while since I've been in there, CV boots was the last time, last summer.

The bolts for the axle were really easy to get off.

I'll cross check with PureMS and see how their price and availability is. I'm in Ohio so ECS is next day shipping with regular shipping. PureMS is a few days.

Nigel (no more S4)

It is held in by 3 6mm allens. If you remove that, the sensor should be easily accessible. It's on the left side of this picture. This is passenger side, but it's the same for drivers

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/77913/dscf0546.jpg">

PlumSmuggler

guard. You can do it!

Good luck!

Funkdariaa

Like I said, couldn't remember what was in there exactly and I was worried that the said shield would be much harder to get off (i.e. larger and non-removable while tranny is in the car, or maybe some heat shields from the exhaust poking down in that area).

Hmmm.... I have a million pieces from an old tyranny sitting somewhere. Warranty replacement of the tranny, got to keep the old one, ableit completely disassembled. I wonder if that sensor is still on there!

Funkdariaa

...for this sensor? I have a Bentley but I fng' hate trying to find info in that thing.

A full pin out would be great for future issues that I'm sure will pop up. I searched and find reference to it, but can't find it.

I see everyone reference just pin numbers for other things on here. Are they actually marked (e.g. #1 and the highest numbers in the plastic next to the pins, looking into the connector)... in my general experience they sometimes are and sometimes aren't. I've never even had this ECU out before.

Funkdariaa

This job would have been a cakewalk had it not been for the top/middle bolt on the guard. There's an access 'notch' on the body to be able to put an extension to it. I had a few extensions cobbled together and whatever I could do, I could not get the allen socket to line up with the bolt. I eventually though "It would be a lot easier to try to use just one extension and line it up, then add the other ones so I can use the ratchet". Bingo, got it right on using a six inch extension and a shortish 3/8" drive 6mm allen socket. This combo was barely short enough to be completely inside of that body panel where the access hole is. Trick was that access panel didn't exactly line up with that bolt so I was coming at it from the wrong angle when I was using all of the extensions. When you get the allen socket onto the bolt the first extension will be very close to the cabin in relation to that access hole. If you've never seen this and paid attention this might not make sense, but once you are in there it should make sense. Sorry but I was running out of daylight so no pictures while I was doing the job.

Since it's pretty hard to get the allen lined up with the bolt I put that one back in first. This is how I put it back in. I put the bolt through the shield, and the allen into the bolt. Then I put the shield in there. This made it very easy to line up the bolt and start threading it. Before you torque it down at all start at least one of the other bolts, preferable getting both of the other bolts hand tight. This way you don't torque down the middle bolt and the shield is out of alignment. BUT while you are doing the other two bolts, still leave the allen on the other bolt, then go torque it down. That way you don't have to try to line the allen up with the bolt again. Then torque it down all of the way before you remove it from the bolt.

Other than fighting with that, it was a very easy job. Once you get that shield off, it's fairly easy to get to the sensor and remove and replace it. One odd thing about the picture that Nick Gustas posted, in that picture it looked like there was a bolt holding the part down or maybe part of the part. It's not, that bolt is just holding the flange to the transfer case/tranny. They are the same color and blend together in that picture. I was a little confused when I was looking at the part and that picture. The part is only held in by that plastic 'spring' which is integral with the part. You can see it down below in Nick's picture. The only tool you might need while removing the actual part is something to pop the metal spring retainer which holds the electrical harness onto the part.

I found the part in my parents basement, didn't have to order it! Car broke on the way to work and I fixed it on the way home.

Also, it's a hall effect sensor (just like ABS sensors), not geared.

Nigel (no more S4)

or, you could just use a long-*** extension and get that middle bolt from the wheel well

Funkdariaa

I though that was a little odd. Maybe something is a little misaligned with my car.

Cerveza

Glad to hear you were able to get to the bottom of it all. Congrats.