DIY: Install a Laser Jammer
12-05-2010, 06:03 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
DIY: Install a Laser Jammer
I've just finished installing my laser jammer. Inspired by how jimf15e (aka moneky15) installed his, I pretty much duplicated the setup, taking pictures along the way. Here's a DIY for everyone else out there.
Step 1: Select a jammer, make sure it's legal
There are a few different laser jammers available. The Radar Detector forums are a great place to research which one is best for you. Also, a laser jammer is not legal in every state, so make sure it's legal in your state before proceeding. The guys @ RadarDetectors.net have put together a great FAQ that you should read to determine how effective a jammer is, what it does, and if it's legal in your state.
I've used both the Blinder & Laser Interceptor in the past. For my S4, I decided to go with the Laser Interceptor again. If you decide to get yourself a Laser Interceptor, make sure you order from an authorized distributor - the only factory authorized US distributor is Cliff @ http://www.laser-interceptorusa.com/. Cliff @ the guys on the Radar Detector forums are super-helpful, so definitely reach out if you get stuck or need advice.
Step 2: Scope out the installation
Before doing anything - review all the materials that come with your jammer. Read the instruction manuals and make sure all parts are accounted for.
Laser Interceptor parts:
Next, determine where to mount the front transceivers. They need to have an unobstructed forward view. They need to be level, and must face directly forward. Ideally they should be mounted at the same height as the headlights. Lucky for us, the Laser Interceptor (LI) fits perfectly between the S4 grill holes. I decided I would mount mine in the highest slots, shown here in green:
Next, you'll need to find a location to mount the power switch. Following jimf15e's lead, I decided to mount it in the center console. Keep reading below to see exactly where, and what switch I used.
Finally, you'll need to determine if you want to add any 'extras'. For example, the LI can be connected to your Valentine 1 radar detector. Should you do this, you'll need to figure out the proper wiring and make sure you have the right supplies. When connected to the V1, the LI will emit a voice alert whenever the V1 alarms. The LI can also have a second switch wired to it that disables the jamming function, and turns it into a parking sensor (beeps faster as you get close to a wall). You'll need some additional supplies and a mounting location if you want to add this capability.
I saw that jimf15e added a flashing red LED light to his installation, mounted in the steering column area, just under the gauges. I wanted to duplicate this aspect as well so that required a few more parts & materials.
Step 3: Expose the backside of your front grill
After planning your installation, start by mounting the front transceivers.
Pop the hood, and remove the plastic covering above the radiator. There are 4 torx T30 screws to be removed, shown in green below. Remove them, lift up the back edge and lift while sliding the plastic towards the engine. Set it aside.
Once removed, take this opportunity to clean the air-screen in your intake. Remove any dirt or debris that might be clogging it.
Next, remove the two torx T25 screws on either side of the air intake channel. Lift out the intake channel and set it aside.
Step 4: Mount the transceivers
At first, I thought I would mount my transceivers by layering 3M double-stick tape on the top, then sticking them to the underside of that top grill hole. However, that approach didn't seem to work out in practice, so I ended up making metal brackets to hold each unit. The brackets would allow the transceivers to hang down from the back-side of the grill. Then double-stick tape would be used to secure the top of the brackets to the backside.
Double stick tape:
To do that, I took a small piece of scrap sheet metal and cut 4 small strips. I drilled a hole in each strip, then attached them to the transceivers using the LI supplied hardware. I test fitted each transceiver, ply'ing and bending the metal strips until each transceiver pointed directly forward and was level. It's a bit difficult because the grill is curved, so take your time. Once the strips were properly bended, I sprayed them with flat-black paint so they wouldn't be visible from the front.
The metal brackets, getting painted:
The metal brackets, on the transceiver:
Once the brackets were attached to each transceiver, I applied double-stick tape to the back of the grill and attached each transceiver. I put a second layer of double-stick tape over-top of the bracket to ensure they would be secure. Here's a picture of the passenger-side transceiver, after being attached with the double-stick tape.
Once both are done, make sure to re-adjust them as necessary to make sure they are perfectly level and facing straight forward. Remember, if you're installing the LI, the 'bubbles' on the front of each transceiver should be to the outside of the car.
Results:
(I had to boost the light in these images so you can see the transceivers.)
Overall, they are very stealth and should provide excellent coverage.
Step 5: Wire into the cabin
Next, you'll need to route the transceiver wires into the cabin. Start by going alongside the radiator, through the hole where the hood release cable goes. I've roughly highlighted the route in green:
Remember to leave enough slack in the passenger-side wire to go underneath the air intake channel. We're going to route the wire up towards the ECU box, so now it's time to remove the plastic cover just under your wiper-blades. There are two plastic retaining screws on each side (shown in green below). Remove both of these, then open the panel where the postitive battery lead is, and lift up around the white retaining clip. Lift up the front and pull the piece forwards to remove it.
Now route the transceiver wires up towards the ECU. I routed mine as follows (see green lines), and pushed them through the foam gap where the brake lines are routed. Zip-tie the wires so they don't move around.
Now we need to get the wires into the cabin. I decided I would follow the approach AWE recommends when installing their boost gauge (PDF Link).
This requires that you first remove the washer fluid reservoir. There is a single 13mm nut that needs to be removed. DO NOT DROP IT!
Once the nut has been removed, you can wiggle out the reservoir. Ohh yeah, if you don't want washer fluid all over your floor, remember to drain it first (AWE recommends a turkey baster... Guess who didn't read that part?... Ugh!).
Next, open the ECU box. There are three torx T30 screws holding the lid on. Remove them and lift off the lid:
Now, its time to figure out how to get the wires into the ECU box and into the cabin. I didn't want to cut the rubber wire boot (as per the AWE procedure), so instead I used electrical tape to attach zip ties to the end of the wires, then wiggled them into the rubber gasket.
Wire with zip-tie attached to end:
First wire through the rubber-band like gasket. (I twisted to peach-colored wires together and pushed them through first so I could help pull the gasket open. Once the wires for the transceiver were through, I removed my peach-colored wires).
It's a very tight fit, so take your time and once the zip-tie is through, pull the end to get the wire into the ECU box.
Once both are through, begin looking for how to get them into the cabin.
Start by removing the plastic trim under the steering wheel. Pop-open the fuse box, and remove the 8mm bolt shown in green. Then remove the two additional 8mm bolts on the underside of the trim panel. Lower the trim panel and unclip both wire-harnesses.
Panel removed:
I found that underneath the ECU there was a hole just big enough to get the wires through. Using my stiff peach-colored twisted wires as a probe, I examined where the hole is:
The hole is very tight, but using the zip-ties as leads, and approaching it from the right angle, you can get the wires through. You won't need to drill or cut your firewall at all.
Wires through the inside:
Finally, zip-tie the wires as they enter the ECU box, and put a piece of electrical tape around the rubber gasket for safe measure.
Now reattach the cover, replace the wiper fluid reservoir, replace the plastic cover under the window wipers, the air-intake channel, and the plastic cover above the radiator. You're done in the engine bay!
Step 1: Select a jammer, make sure it's legal
There are a few different laser jammers available. The Radar Detector forums are a great place to research which one is best for you. Also, a laser jammer is not legal in every state, so make sure it's legal in your state before proceeding. The guys @ RadarDetectors.net have put together a great FAQ that you should read to determine how effective a jammer is, what it does, and if it's legal in your state.
I've used both the Blinder & Laser Interceptor in the past. For my S4, I decided to go with the Laser Interceptor again. If you decide to get yourself a Laser Interceptor, make sure you order from an authorized distributor - the only factory authorized US distributor is Cliff @ http://www.laser-interceptorusa.com/. Cliff @ the guys on the Radar Detector forums are super-helpful, so definitely reach out if you get stuck or need advice.
Step 2: Scope out the installation
Before doing anything - review all the materials that come with your jammer. Read the instruction manuals and make sure all parts are accounted for.
Laser Interceptor parts:
Next, determine where to mount the front transceivers. They need to have an unobstructed forward view. They need to be level, and must face directly forward. Ideally they should be mounted at the same height as the headlights. Lucky for us, the Laser Interceptor (LI) fits perfectly between the S4 grill holes. I decided I would mount mine in the highest slots, shown here in green:
Next, you'll need to find a location to mount the power switch. Following jimf15e's lead, I decided to mount it in the center console. Keep reading below to see exactly where, and what switch I used.
Finally, you'll need to determine if you want to add any 'extras'. For example, the LI can be connected to your Valentine 1 radar detector. Should you do this, you'll need to figure out the proper wiring and make sure you have the right supplies. When connected to the V1, the LI will emit a voice alert whenever the V1 alarms. The LI can also have a second switch wired to it that disables the jamming function, and turns it into a parking sensor (beeps faster as you get close to a wall). You'll need some additional supplies and a mounting location if you want to add this capability.
I saw that jimf15e added a flashing red LED light to his installation, mounted in the steering column area, just under the gauges. I wanted to duplicate this aspect as well so that required a few more parts & materials.
Step 3: Expose the backside of your front grill
After planning your installation, start by mounting the front transceivers.
Pop the hood, and remove the plastic covering above the radiator. There are 4 torx T30 screws to be removed, shown in green below. Remove them, lift up the back edge and lift while sliding the plastic towards the engine. Set it aside.
Once removed, take this opportunity to clean the air-screen in your intake. Remove any dirt or debris that might be clogging it.
Next, remove the two torx T25 screws on either side of the air intake channel. Lift out the intake channel and set it aside.
Step 4: Mount the transceivers
At first, I thought I would mount my transceivers by layering 3M double-stick tape on the top, then sticking them to the underside of that top grill hole. However, that approach didn't seem to work out in practice, so I ended up making metal brackets to hold each unit. The brackets would allow the transceivers to hang down from the back-side of the grill. Then double-stick tape would be used to secure the top of the brackets to the backside.
Double stick tape:
To do that, I took a small piece of scrap sheet metal and cut 4 small strips. I drilled a hole in each strip, then attached them to the transceivers using the LI supplied hardware. I test fitted each transceiver, ply'ing and bending the metal strips until each transceiver pointed directly forward and was level. It's a bit difficult because the grill is curved, so take your time. Once the strips were properly bended, I sprayed them with flat-black paint so they wouldn't be visible from the front.
The metal brackets, getting painted:
The metal brackets, on the transceiver:
Once the brackets were attached to each transceiver, I applied double-stick tape to the back of the grill and attached each transceiver. I put a second layer of double-stick tape over-top of the bracket to ensure they would be secure. Here's a picture of the passenger-side transceiver, after being attached with the double-stick tape.
Once both are done, make sure to re-adjust them as necessary to make sure they are perfectly level and facing straight forward. Remember, if you're installing the LI, the 'bubbles' on the front of each transceiver should be to the outside of the car.
Results:
(I had to boost the light in these images so you can see the transceivers.)
Overall, they are very stealth and should provide excellent coverage.
Step 5: Wire into the cabin
Next, you'll need to route the transceiver wires into the cabin. Start by going alongside the radiator, through the hole where the hood release cable goes. I've roughly highlighted the route in green:
Remember to leave enough slack in the passenger-side wire to go underneath the air intake channel. We're going to route the wire up towards the ECU box, so now it's time to remove the plastic cover just under your wiper-blades. There are two plastic retaining screws on each side (shown in green below). Remove both of these, then open the panel where the postitive battery lead is, and lift up around the white retaining clip. Lift up the front and pull the piece forwards to remove it.
Now route the transceiver wires up towards the ECU. I routed mine as follows (see green lines), and pushed them through the foam gap where the brake lines are routed. Zip-tie the wires so they don't move around.
Now we need to get the wires into the cabin. I decided I would follow the approach AWE recommends when installing their boost gauge (PDF Link).
This requires that you first remove the washer fluid reservoir. There is a single 13mm nut that needs to be removed. DO NOT DROP IT!
Once the nut has been removed, you can wiggle out the reservoir. Ohh yeah, if you don't want washer fluid all over your floor, remember to drain it first (AWE recommends a turkey baster... Guess who didn't read that part?... Ugh!).
Next, open the ECU box. There are three torx T30 screws holding the lid on. Remove them and lift off the lid:
Now, its time to figure out how to get the wires into the ECU box and into the cabin. I didn't want to cut the rubber wire boot (as per the AWE procedure), so instead I used electrical tape to attach zip ties to the end of the wires, then wiggled them into the rubber gasket.
Wire with zip-tie attached to end:
First wire through the rubber-band like gasket. (I twisted to peach-colored wires together and pushed them through first so I could help pull the gasket open. Once the wires for the transceiver were through, I removed my peach-colored wires).
It's a very tight fit, so take your time and once the zip-tie is through, pull the end to get the wire into the ECU box.
Once both are through, begin looking for how to get them into the cabin.
Start by removing the plastic trim under the steering wheel. Pop-open the fuse box, and remove the 8mm bolt shown in green. Then remove the two additional 8mm bolts on the underside of the trim panel. Lower the trim panel and unclip both wire-harnesses.
Panel removed:
I found that underneath the ECU there was a hole just big enough to get the wires through. Using my stiff peach-colored twisted wires as a probe, I examined where the hole is:
The hole is very tight, but using the zip-ties as leads, and approaching it from the right angle, you can get the wires through. You won't need to drill or cut your firewall at all.
Wires through the inside:
Finally, zip-tie the wires as they enter the ECU box, and put a piece of electrical tape around the rubber gasket for safe measure.
Now reattach the cover, replace the wiper fluid reservoir, replace the plastic cover under the window wipers, the air-intake channel, and the plastic cover above the radiator. You're done in the engine bay!
12-05-2010, 06:04 PM
#2
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
(Continued...)
Step 6: Locate where to mount the LI control box
After looking around under the steering column, I decided I would mount the LI control box inside the plastic brackets in front of the relays. I test fitted the control box and it fit in the brackets just perfectly. With a few zip-ties later, it would be nice & secure.
Planned location:
Test fit - perfect!
At this point, you can tidy up the excess transceiver wires and secure them:
Step 7: Wiring
To power the LI, I decided to tap into the same power source I used when installing my Valentine One.
See this thread for more information: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2773725
I used the same add-a-fuse line for both the V1 & LI, and I used my ground lasso (see V1 install thread), using it to ground both devices.
Power with the add-a-fuse (the third lead will be explained shortly).
I strongly recommend you solder all connections and use heat-shrink tubing for a clean look.
At this point, you can tidy up the excess wires.
Final picture of fuse panel:
Optional Step - Add flashing LED alarm indicator
I really liked what jimf15e did with his install. He installed a flashed red LED in the steering column area. When the LI alarms, it flashes. This would be an added visual alarm indicator. For the LED, I went to SuperBrightLEDs.com and purchased the blinking red "LW-BR-12VDC" which has leads attached.
To power the LED, the positive lead is connected to the same 12V power supply as the V1 & LI (this is the third red wire in my add-a-fuse picture above). The ground will be connected to the 'radio mute' wire from the LI. This wire is grouded whenever the LI alarm goes off, which will turn on the flashing red LED.
To mount it, I removed the panels above the steering wheel. Start by removing the two 8mm bolts holding the trim panel on either side of the steering wheel. These are inside a small plastic recess - you'll need a 8mm crescent wrench and a lot of patience to get them out. Here's the one on the door-side of the trim panel (in green):
Next, pop-out the leather steering shaft cover using a bone tool:
Now pop-out the bottom of the silver trim around the gauges. It needs to be loose so you can rock out & remove the trim panel. Disconnect the wire harness behind the head-light control, and the trim can be removed:
I decided to mount the LED on the left-side, so I x'ed the leather with an razor then drilled through (the LED diameter is 5mm):
I then pushed the LED through from the back, and used a dab of adhesive silicon to ensure it doesn't come loose. Clean up the leather around the bulb, tidy up the wires behind the panel, then re-mount it in the car. The LED is small enough that it will not contact the steering column no matter how you adjust the wheel. Test the bulb once it's installed to make sure it works. The red is a perfect brightness for me, and matches the color of the rest of the instrument panel.
Step 8: Switch wiring
I also liked what jif15e did with his power switch. He put a rocker switch + LED in the slot next to the cup-holders. I decided to pick up a toggle switch with an integrated LED light for my installation. After reviewing a ton of switches, I decided on this switch from Digi-Key. It's a flat toggle with an LED in the tip. I'll be able to quickly and easily reach down into the slot and flip it when necessary.
For this step, you'll need to remove the center console. To do that, follow these instructions:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2795900
Once the console has been removed, you can unscrew the cup-holder assembly. There are 8 torx screws to remove.
The switch will be mounted in the existing hole closest to the arm rest. As is, the hole is 10mm in diameter. The switch is 12mm, so I used a circular file to make the hole slightly larger.
Once large enough for the switch, use a razor blade to cut the rubber mat. Now you can mount the switch.
To wire the switch re-use the existing connector from the LI supplied switch. Refer to the LI wiring diagram (included in the user manual) and the diagram for your switch to determine how to wire it. For this switch, connect the red wire to POWER, gray to ACC, and green to GROUND.
The existing wires from the LI harness will need to be extended to reach the center console.
Now replace the center console per the linked thread. Replace the lower trim under the steering wheel, and you'll finally be done.
The glow of the switch perfectly matches the rest of the interior lighting (picture is blurry, but you can see the relative intensity of the different lights). The switch is about the same brightness as the parking brake.
And with that, you're done. =) Again, I want to thank Cliff @ Laser Interceptor USA + jimf15e (aka monkey15) for their help & inspiration.
Step 6: Locate where to mount the LI control box
After looking around under the steering column, I decided I would mount the LI control box inside the plastic brackets in front of the relays. I test fitted the control box and it fit in the brackets just perfectly. With a few zip-ties later, it would be nice & secure.
Planned location:
Test fit - perfect!
At this point, you can tidy up the excess transceiver wires and secure them:
Step 7: Wiring
To power the LI, I decided to tap into the same power source I used when installing my Valentine One.
See this thread for more information: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2773725
I used the same add-a-fuse line for both the V1 & LI, and I used my ground lasso (see V1 install thread), using it to ground both devices.
Power with the add-a-fuse (the third lead will be explained shortly).
I strongly recommend you solder all connections and use heat-shrink tubing for a clean look.
At this point, you can tidy up the excess wires.
Final picture of fuse panel:
Optional Step - Add flashing LED alarm indicator
I really liked what jimf15e did with his install. He installed a flashed red LED in the steering column area. When the LI alarms, it flashes. This would be an added visual alarm indicator. For the LED, I went to SuperBrightLEDs.com and purchased the blinking red "LW-BR-12VDC" which has leads attached.
To power the LED, the positive lead is connected to the same 12V power supply as the V1 & LI (this is the third red wire in my add-a-fuse picture above). The ground will be connected to the 'radio mute' wire from the LI. This wire is grouded whenever the LI alarm goes off, which will turn on the flashing red LED.
To mount it, I removed the panels above the steering wheel. Start by removing the two 8mm bolts holding the trim panel on either side of the steering wheel. These are inside a small plastic recess - you'll need a 8mm crescent wrench and a lot of patience to get them out. Here's the one on the door-side of the trim panel (in green):
Next, pop-out the leather steering shaft cover using a bone tool:
Now pop-out the bottom of the silver trim around the gauges. It needs to be loose so you can rock out & remove the trim panel. Disconnect the wire harness behind the head-light control, and the trim can be removed:
I decided to mount the LED on the left-side, so I x'ed the leather with an razor then drilled through (the LED diameter is 5mm):
I then pushed the LED through from the back, and used a dab of adhesive silicon to ensure it doesn't come loose. Clean up the leather around the bulb, tidy up the wires behind the panel, then re-mount it in the car. The LED is small enough that it will not contact the steering column no matter how you adjust the wheel. Test the bulb once it's installed to make sure it works. The red is a perfect brightness for me, and matches the color of the rest of the instrument panel.
Step 8: Switch wiring
I also liked what jif15e did with his power switch. He put a rocker switch + LED in the slot next to the cup-holders. I decided to pick up a toggle switch with an integrated LED light for my installation. After reviewing a ton of switches, I decided on this switch from Digi-Key. It's a flat toggle with an LED in the tip. I'll be able to quickly and easily reach down into the slot and flip it when necessary.
For this step, you'll need to remove the center console. To do that, follow these instructions:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?t=2795900
Once the console has been removed, you can unscrew the cup-holder assembly. There are 8 torx screws to remove.
The switch will be mounted in the existing hole closest to the arm rest. As is, the hole is 10mm in diameter. The switch is 12mm, so I used a circular file to make the hole slightly larger.
Once large enough for the switch, use a razor blade to cut the rubber mat. Now you can mount the switch.
To wire the switch re-use the existing connector from the LI supplied switch. Refer to the LI wiring diagram (included in the user manual) and the diagram for your switch to determine how to wire it. For this switch, connect the red wire to POWER, gray to ACC, and green to GROUND.
The existing wires from the LI harness will need to be extended to reach the center console.
Now replace the center console per the linked thread. Replace the lower trim under the steering wheel, and you'll finally be done.
The glow of the switch perfectly matches the rest of the interior lighting (picture is blurry, but you can see the relative intensity of the different lights). The switch is about the same brightness as the parking brake.
And with that, you're done. =) Again, I want to thank Cliff @ Laser Interceptor USA + jimf15e (aka monkey15) for their help & inspiration.
Last edited by Tails; 12-05-2010 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Replacing with part 2.
12-05-2010, 06:55 PM
#4
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Great write-up.
Just did the same install this weekend. Did mine a little different, but may make a few changes after seeing yours:
I like where you mounted the control box. I put mine on the bottom cover, but I think it's too close to the ODB port
I had a tough time mounting the heads. I tried the same double sided tape but the gap was too big. So I bought some JB weld plastic and filled in the gap in the grill then used double sided tape. Not sure I'm happy with it and may try something like yours.
I will add the red led as well as I'm not sure I'll hear the voice; or maybe some sort of buzzer.
I put the on/off switch in the panel below the key. It's hidden but I can reach it easily.
Just wish I had waited one week before doing mine, I wouldn't have to figure all this out myself :-)
Just did the same install this weekend. Did mine a little different, but may make a few changes after seeing yours:
I like where you mounted the control box. I put mine on the bottom cover, but I think it's too close to the ODB port
I had a tough time mounting the heads. I tried the same double sided tape but the gap was too big. So I bought some JB weld plastic and filled in the gap in the grill then used double sided tape. Not sure I'm happy with it and may try something like yours.
I will add the red led as well as I'm not sure I'll hear the voice; or maybe some sort of buzzer.
I put the on/off switch in the panel below the key. It's hidden but I can reach it easily.
Just wish I had waited one week before doing mine, I wouldn't have to figure all this out myself :-)
12-06-2010, 01:37 AM
#6
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Tails,
Great install and great DIY. Thanks for passing the credit on for some of my ideas, but I wish I had the patience and skill you showed. Makes me want to go back and redo some parts of the install. I definitely think your head location is much better higher up in the grill. Make sure you verify that the heads are level every once in a while. That's the only downside to using 3M tape. Also, does your switch LED flash under alerts as well? That was the one thing I couldn't figure out using the straight 3-pole switch and why I went with the separate LED and switch. Not as important with the dash LED but just wondering. Also, I like how you installed the dash LED. Great work and thanks for the photos!
For the question on rear protection, rear sensors are easier to install than the front ones and the standard LI CPU has connections for up to 4 heads. Mount them under the trunk lip and run the cables through the gap between the tailight and trunk lid. I only have the 9500ci rear sensor now but it runs the same way. Next time I have a few bucks I'll pick up a set of rear LIs.
Here's a good link to my install on radardetector.net: http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...0-audi-s4.html. That one is more up to date since I got rid of the remote power setup - too unreliable. One of these days I'll take pictures of my 9500ci install.
Great install and great DIY. Thanks for passing the credit on for some of my ideas, but I wish I had the patience and skill you showed. Makes me want to go back and redo some parts of the install. I definitely think your head location is much better higher up in the grill. Make sure you verify that the heads are level every once in a while. That's the only downside to using 3M tape. Also, does your switch LED flash under alerts as well? That was the one thing I couldn't figure out using the straight 3-pole switch and why I went with the separate LED and switch. Not as important with the dash LED but just wondering. Also, I like how you installed the dash LED. Great work and thanks for the photos!
For the question on rear protection, rear sensors are easier to install than the front ones and the standard LI CPU has connections for up to 4 heads. Mount them under the trunk lip and run the cables through the gap between the tailight and trunk lid. I only have the 9500ci rear sensor now but it runs the same way. Next time I have a few bucks I'll pick up a set of rear LIs.
Here's a good link to my install on radardetector.net: http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...0-audi-s4.html. That one is more up to date since I got rid of the remote power setup - too unreliable. One of these days I'll take pictures of my 9500ci install.
12-06-2010, 12:47 PM
#7
AudiWorld Member
This is a great write-up! Thanks for doing this. Particularly glad to see you found a way to route the cables through the firewall without drilling.
I think I know what my over the holidays project is going to be
I'd be curious to know what percentage of active hits you've seen on laser vs radar. Wondering if it makes sense anymore to bother with a radar detector.
I think I know what my over the holidays project is going to be
I'd be curious to know what percentage of active hits you've seen on laser vs radar. Wondering if it makes sense anymore to bother with a radar detector.
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12-06-2010, 02:53 PM
#8
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You can't go much high than this because there's a big metal support bracket behind the cover where the switch would hit. At first I thought it was too low, but sitting back in the seat I can reach it no problem.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dAFX8MiFuBel_Y1x8RQXXw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_cdG6NTyhmcc/TP12gv9_0rI/AAAAAAAAAFw/yRfWenmIakk/s800/LI%20Switch%20004.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/porter993/2011AudiS4?feat=embedwebsite">2011 Audi S4</a></td></tr></table>
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<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dAFX8MiFuBel_Y1x8RQXXw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_cdG6NTyhmcc/TP12gv9_0rI/AAAAAAAAAFw/yRfWenmIakk/s800/LI%20Switch%20004.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/porter993/2011AudiS4?feat=embedwebsite">2011 Audi S4</a></td></tr></table>
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12-06-2010, 06:15 PM
#9
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
This is a great write-up! Thanks for doing this. Particularly glad to see you found a way to route the cables through the firewall without drilling.
I think I know what my over the holidays project is going to be
I'd be curious to know what percentage of active hits you've seen on laser vs radar. Wondering if it makes sense anymore to bother with a radar detector.
I think I know what my over the holidays project is going to be
I'd be curious to know what percentage of active hits you've seen on laser vs radar. Wondering if it makes sense anymore to bother with a radar detector.
As for laser vs. radar - it really does vary depending on where you travel. Here in Washington, the state patrol often uses laser, whereas local cops are stuck with radar. Same seems to be true in Oregon - but again, I think it varies district to district.
Thanks for the pic Cooper - I considered this location but was too nervous to drill into that large panel.
How did you mount your heads?
12-06-2010, 06:26 PM
#10
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So I used a product from JB Weld for plastic, PVC, etc. (Got it from HD, but here's a link):
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-.../dp/B003S2E4UE
It's a two part plastic epoxy that you mix into a putty and press in place. Using a wet finger and a PVC block (scrap trim from my house) I flattened the putty at the correct angle and waited for it to set. I then used the 3M tape to attach the heads to that.
They're on there very solid, but one of the heads is about 1/2 a bubble off, so I may have to put a little shim in there to align it better.
As for drilling into that big panel, I just used a wood spade bit from the back until it poked through the front, then turned the panel over and drilled from the front. I went one size smaller then ground out the hole with a dremmel and a round sanding bit. The picture makes it look worse than it is. I didn't wipe down the panel after drilling so there's some little shavings on it. From the seat, you can't even tell it's there.
Last edited by Cooper993; 12-06-2010 at 06:32 PM.