how many miles before you red lined your S4
#21
Banned
No need to do that. Heck, my drive home was about 40 miles on the freeway and another 30 just plain 4 lane highway. I just tried to vary the RPMs, downshift (double clutch and rev match) to lower gears often and do plenty of full throttle blasts below redline, and used toll booths and on ramps as an opportunity to drop down to 3rd or 2nd and floor it to redline and off ramps as an opportunity to engine brake.
If you need to, just get off at an exit every so often and use the on and off ramps as your personal play areas and try not to hold gears too long while you're on the freeway. That's the other good side to the method DrGP recommends: It's extremely fun!
If you need to, just get off at an exit every so often and use the on and off ramps as your personal play areas and try not to hold gears too long while you're on the freeway. That's the other good side to the method DrGP recommends: It's extremely fun!
#23
Banned
Don't do it. Although synthetic oil is not the best oil to use for break in , it will be ok with the synthetic. Due to potential warranty issues, most don't take out the factory oil. It will just take longer for the rings to seat with synthetic oil.
#24
I waited about 300 miles to redline mine (about one tank of gas). Apparently you are supposed to wait till about 800-1000 miles (Three Tanks of Gas). Also once you are in the 1000-5000 mile range, I was told it is good to redline it often and let the engine brake the vehicle instead of using your brakes right away. Apparently the vacuum helps your engine break in and the car can actually acheive higher horsepower later on. I don't think your engine can tell the difference between redlining in different gears. If you redline it in 6th you will be doing about 170mph. Good Luck
#25
Really appreciate the advice. Thx!
#26
how many miles before you red lined your S4
I really doubt about brake in technique described in this discussion. Why would I trust some guy instead of bunch of engineers of the manufacturing company who design the cars engine and know better in this respect?
#27
Don't trust just some guy, trust all of us who did it and have not burned a drop of oil to date. Count me as one.
#28
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You can't have it both ways .
I read a bit about tranny /diff problems on these boards - maybe the owners who post here are the ones more likely to "drive it like they stole it" from day 1 , due to advice from fellow posters . I drove my S4 gently for first thousand miles and have never put even a drop of oil in it after nearly 70K miles .
As a Porsche 911 owner for three decades , current manufacturer break in is 2000 miles - mainly for the reasons I stated above - not for the sake of the piston rings.
Last edited by Inclined; 08-02-2011 at 12:10 PM.
#29
AudiWorld Member
The debate about break-in procedure is just that, a debate. There are many different ways. Follow the manufacturer or follow MotoMan or follow old Joe from the garage down the street. Choose whatever feels right to you.
One thing to consider, and is a FACT, is that you are not only breaking in the ENGINE during the first few hundred miles. You are also breaking in the TRANSMISSION, DIFFERENTIALS, BRAKES and TIRES. Keep that in mind when selecting your preferred break-in method. MotoMan's method is strictly for a racing engine and completely disregards the other components of a vehicle.
A few things about MotoMan.
1) His method is controversial and debated on EVERY car forum.
2) He is describing a method designed to squeeze every last horsepower out of a RACE ENGINE with total disregard for longevity of the engine. Racing engines are designed to be built, raced a few times, torn down and rebuilt. Rinse and repeat.
3) MotoMan has little to no credibility. He has a website on the internet. Nothing more than that. By the way, his supposed "expertise" is in regards to motorcycle engines that he recommends are broken in on a dyno. That's a very different proposition than a 3900lb AWD car driven on the road.
4) If his method was the proper way to break-in an engine, it would just be THE WAY. No debate. But it isn't and it is not recognized by any single auto manufacturer in the WORLD.
Things to consider as you make your choice on how to break-in your vehicle.
One thing to consider, and is a FACT, is that you are not only breaking in the ENGINE during the first few hundred miles. You are also breaking in the TRANSMISSION, DIFFERENTIALS, BRAKES and TIRES. Keep that in mind when selecting your preferred break-in method. MotoMan's method is strictly for a racing engine and completely disregards the other components of a vehicle.
A few things about MotoMan.
1) His method is controversial and debated on EVERY car forum.
2) He is describing a method designed to squeeze every last horsepower out of a RACE ENGINE with total disregard for longevity of the engine. Racing engines are designed to be built, raced a few times, torn down and rebuilt. Rinse and repeat.
3) MotoMan has little to no credibility. He has a website on the internet. Nothing more than that. By the way, his supposed "expertise" is in regards to motorcycle engines that he recommends are broken in on a dyno. That's a very different proposition than a 3900lb AWD car driven on the road.
4) If his method was the proper way to break-in an engine, it would just be THE WAY. No debate. But it isn't and it is not recognized by any single auto manufacturer in the WORLD.
Things to consider as you make your choice on how to break-in your vehicle.
#30
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Agreed, I think the best way is to vary your speed at first, nothing too extreme for the first 1000 miles, in other words, moderation at first. Not to say I didn't rev it up a few times in the first 1000, but stayed below redline. This is how I broke in my 2001 A6, 2.7T 6MT, and it has 130,000 miles, still running great on original clutch, transmission and all major systems except normal maintenance, and doesn't use more then 1 quart about every 5000 miles at most. My daughter is still driving the car and I'll keep it until it dies.