DIY: Hardwired Radar Detector Install
07-13-2014, 07:37 AM
#62
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I attempted to do this today but not sure I was able to find a "good" switchable source. Got an ATO tap-a-fuse per some other thread, so I'm limited to the middle or right banks.
Found both B #2 (brake light sensor) and B #4 (clutch sensor) work, but the unit doesn't turn off right away and seems to start up when I open the door instead of turn the ignition on.
Is that the same behavior as the slots you found in the mini fuses? Or does it turn on and off with the ignition?
Found both B #2 (brake light sensor) and B #4 (clutch sensor) work, but the unit doesn't turn off right away and seems to start up when I open the door instead of turn the ignition on.
Is that the same behavior as the slots you found in the mini fuses? Or does it turn on and off with the ignition?
07-14-2014, 05:37 AM
#63
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I found the standard fuse size tap to be unreliable. I sat scratching my head for a couple hours trying to figure out why it wasn't working with other 5amp fuse slots. The only one I got to work was "convenience electronics', and wasn't happy with that given it's not truly switched.
Interesting though that you said the radar detector would fire up when you restarted the car. I think the car has a constant power kill override on those circuits, so it kind of acts in the same way. Like you though, I never felt comfortable with it.
I suggest you go out and just buy a mini-add-a-line from Buss or some other manufacturer. I got one on eBay for $8 or something, which included the 2amp aux fuse as well. Use that 2a fuse, and the 5a fuse, and use slot 3 in column 1. It's for the rearview mirror, and it's switched. You won't have a problem.
It will be 100% switched.
Interesting though that you said the radar detector would fire up when you restarted the car. I think the car has a constant power kill override on those circuits, so it kind of acts in the same way. Like you though, I never felt comfortable with it.
I suggest you go out and just buy a mini-add-a-line from Buss or some other manufacturer. I got one on eBay for $8 or something, which included the 2amp aux fuse as well. Use that 2a fuse, and the 5a fuse, and use slot 3 in column 1. It's for the rearview mirror, and it's switched. You won't have a problem.
It will be 100% switched.
I attempted to do this today but not sure I was able to find a "good" switchable source. Got an ATO tap-a-fuse per some other thread, so I'm limited to the middle or right banks.
Found both B #2 (brake light sensor) and B #4 (clutch sensor) work, but the unit doesn't turn off right away and seems to start up when I open the door instead of turn the ignition on.
Is that the same behavior as the slots you found in the mini fuses? Or does it turn on and off with the ignition?
Found both B #2 (brake light sensor) and B #4 (clutch sensor) work, but the unit doesn't turn off right away and seems to start up when I open the door instead of turn the ignition on.
Is that the same behavior as the slots you found in the mini fuses? Or does it turn on and off with the ignition?
07-19-2014, 09:33 AM
#64
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I found the standard fuse size tap to be unreliable. I sat scratching my head for a couple hours trying to figure out why it wasn't working with other 5amp fuse slots. The only one I got to work was "convenience electronics', and wasn't happy with that given it's not truly switched.
Interesting though that you said the radar detector would fire up when you restarted the car. I think the car has a constant power kill override on those circuits, so it kind of acts in the same way. Like you though, I never felt comfortable with it.
I suggest you go out and just buy a mini-add-a-line from Buss or some other manufacturer. I got one on eBay for $8 or something, which included the 2amp aux fuse as well. Use that 2a fuse, and the 5a fuse, and use slot 3 in column 1. It's for the rearview mirror, and it's switched. You won't have a problem.
It will be 100% switched.
Interesting though that you said the radar detector would fire up when you restarted the car. I think the car has a constant power kill override on those circuits, so it kind of acts in the same way. Like you though, I never felt comfortable with it.
I suggest you go out and just buy a mini-add-a-line from Buss or some other manufacturer. I got one on eBay for $8 or something, which included the 2amp aux fuse as well. Use that 2a fuse, and the 5a fuse, and use slot 3 in column 1. It's for the rearview mirror, and it's switched. You won't have a problem.
It will be 100% switched.
07-22-2014, 07:13 PM
#65
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Newbie S4 owner here.
Just did the hardwire for my Escort Passport X50 and it was easy ..to be honest I did the same process with my other vehicle, and the fuse tap at fuse box option works very well indeed(Rennlist post was almost exactly the same step by step!)
I have a base S4, so no homelink and use the empty slot for power.
Thanks for the DIY post ...it does make life easier!
Just did the hardwire for my Escort Passport X50 and it was easy ..to be honest I did the same process with my other vehicle, and the fuse tap at fuse box option works very well indeed(Rennlist post was almost exactly the same step by step!)
I have a base S4, so no homelink and use the empty slot for power.
Thanks for the DIY post ...it does make life easier!
07-26-2014, 05:30 PM
#66
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I completed the install however when I plug the Mini Add-A-Line accessory into the fuse panel, the radar is hot wired, NOT switched. Does anyone else know how to resolve this? I don't want the radar to remain on when the car is off. Thanks.
--
Jon
2014 Audi S6
--
Jon
2014 Audi S6
11-10-2014, 10:15 PM
#67
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Nice guide. I want to use this to wire my front and rear blackvue dash camera. Does running the wire through the A piller like that obstruct the curtain airbags?
I saw some videos on youtube to see how curtain airbags deploy. Looks like the force is quite strong though.
I saw some videos on youtube to see how curtain airbags deploy. Looks like the force is quite strong though.
11-11-2014, 07:33 AM
#68
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It is indeed a safety issue. I would not follow this install guide.
See my previous post in this thread (#54)
----
I know this is an old thread but there is a significant safety issue the the way the OP installed the wiring.
By wiring it through the A - pillar the way he did, the side airbag is now hindered by the wire wrapped around it.
The proper way is to remove the A - pillar cover and put the wire behind the airbag.
This is VERY important.
See my previous post in this thread (#54)
----
I know this is an old thread but there is a significant safety issue the the way the OP installed the wiring.
By wiring it through the A - pillar the way he did, the side airbag is now hindered by the wire wrapped around it.
The proper way is to remove the A - pillar cover and put the wire behind the airbag.
This is VERY important.
11-11-2014, 07:40 AM
#69
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I wired mine per this instruction and really only tucked the wire in between the weather stripping and the A Pillar cover. I doubt it is getting in the way of anything during an accident.
11-11-2014, 08:06 AM
#70
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The wire will interfere with the airbag. Take off the a-pillar and have a look.