Crap...well guess a dyno slot just opened up...mine!
#1
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Crap...well guess a dyno slot just opened up...mine!
Just had the guys over at ASW do a leakdown on my car to see why I am burning oil..and it is pretty appearant that I need at MIN. a valve job.
#1 Cylinder 18%
#2 Cylinder 48%
#3 Cylinder 23%
#4 Cylinder 8% (In spec)
#5 Cylinder 13%
Spec 5-10% Loss
So now I have a decision to make..do I do the valve job? Do I do the bottom end and rings while in there? Or do I sell the car?
Man I cant win....
#1 Cylinder 18%
#2 Cylinder 48%
#3 Cylinder 23%
#4 Cylinder 8% (In spec)
#5 Cylinder 13%
Spec 5-10% Loss
So now I have a decision to make..do I do the valve job? Do I do the bottom end and rings while in there? Or do I sell the car?
Man I cant win....
#2
Do the dyno run first dude :-)
Then do the valve job, new head gasket (though you can do the valve stem seals without removing the head), and maybe, while you're at it, throw a new set of rings on the pistons and a set of better than stock rods....
HTH,
Mihnea
HTH,
Mihnea
#3
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Ya we will see...
I would still be curious what she would dyno even though she would be burning oil...just not "quite" ready to spend the big bucks to do the bottom end.
Need to find out if it is just the stem seals that are leaking..which would best right now.
Need to find out if it is just the stem seals that are leaking..which would best right now.
#4
Hmmm, second thought...
The valve stem seals cause no cylinder leakage, thus I bet my money on the piston rings, or worse, ovalized bores.... it happens sometimes, what's your engine mileage?
If I were you I'd do the run anyway, although it might get your figures down due to oil decreasing effective octane rating...
But hey, I just noticed in your signature that you're using 10w30 oil in the winter, the 30 is way too low for our engines and that oil doesn't have proper viscosity when reaching 90-ish degree C IMO, so this might be the reason for the increased oil consumption, even though the leakage figures are a bit high....
Cheers,
Mihnea
If I were you I'd do the run anyway, although it might get your figures down due to oil decreasing effective octane rating...
But hey, I just noticed in your signature that you're using 10w30 oil in the winter, the 30 is way too low for our engines and that oil doesn't have proper viscosity when reaching 90-ish degree C IMO, so this might be the reason for the increased oil consumption, even though the leakage figures are a bit high....
Cheers,
Mihnea
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Re: Mihnea, what oil should we be using?
Car has about 151K miles on it. The loss is on the Exhaust Valves. They "estimate" that it will cost around ~$3300+tax to do:
- Valve Job with exchange for Modified 7A head (Swain Coating)
- New Piston Rings and Lower Bearings (As with the increased compression w/ new the head and good non-leaky valves...this may cause increase blow-by on the OLD rings)...so one of those "while your in there" and only adds another 500 bucks to the job or so
- Waterpump and timing belt
- ARP Head Bolts
- Metal Head Gasket
- Fluids
- Labor
- Valve Job with exchange for Modified 7A head (Swain Coating)
- New Piston Rings and Lower Bearings (As with the increased compression w/ new the head and good non-leaky valves...this may cause increase blow-by on the OLD rings)...so one of those "while your in there" and only adds another 500 bucks to the job or so
- Waterpump and timing belt
- ARP Head Bolts
- Metal Head Gasket
- Fluids
- Labor