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Little background history:
Purchased the vehicle at 119k miles from one owner. Dealer oil maintained but everything else was untouched. I changed the pcv , waterpump , and thermostat but was still burning 1 qt (oil warning pop up) at 800-1100 miles depending how i drive.
I purchased 2 qt of High performance Lubricants cleaner oil as a top off each time the warning pops up. After the 2 treatment, it was still the same. With those cleaner still in there, I poured in 2 cans of BG EPR engine flush and high idle it for about 30-35 min.
Changed the oil and drive for few more thousand miles with same oil burning rate.
First piston soak, I had only 1 free day off and only soaked it for a short period of time. Probably 3-4 hours.
Changed oil. Still same burning rate.
Added LiquiMoly Oil Saver to see if it helps. Thought it did for a bit but nope.
Last week I had a few days off and this time i did a more thorough soaked for 24hrs. Since then lve been driving the heck out of it and idling more with ac with the warm weather we’re having. 800 miles later ,the oil is still full 👍🤙 !!
Now here’s the crazy part. The engine idles and runs smoother and more responsive. No, its not a placebo. My steering wheel have zero vibration and so does the shifter when i rest my hand on it despite having 2 broken motor mount and 2 shot resonator flex pipe. I could imagine how smooth it will be when I get those fixed.
The exhaust used to have a bad toxic smell I guess from the burning oil. Now I can’t smell anything.
What I did/used:
Berryman B12 aerosol
360 nozzle attachment to hit the upper cylinder area due to the v6 angle.
Seafoam Aerosol as an oil fogger and reducing b12 evaporation rate.
Spray B12 all 6 cylinder rotate crank and spray all 6 cylinder again.
Let soak for 30-45 min
Repeat process
I started 10pm-9pm and then let it soak overnight
Before I let it soak overnight, i would spray a whole lot more of B12 and some Seafoam to slow the evaporation rate.
Next morning I did a few more rounds of b12 and then finalize with only seafoam to lube the cylinder walls and rings for the initial cranking.
Be careful to make sure you dont have a pool of liquid in the chamber when you put back the spark plug
or you’re going to hydrolock your motor.
I had confirm mine with a borescope.
The initial cranking and first minute of the engine runing is always nerve wrecking. You will here all kinds of things but will disappear within a minute.
Change the oil and enjoy your new engine.
I believed it’s more than just the seized oil ring that was the problem. It worked its way up to the compression ring which is why the engine runs smoother. If you don’t have burnt valve and having bad compression test, it likely the upper 2 rings are seized also.
I will do another same soak on my next oil change also when I have the extra time. 360 nozzle Crank adapter tool for turning
I did the same piston soak except that I didn't use the aerosol version. I used the Berryman liquid and poured it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. I went from burning a qt every 1100 miles to about 2500 miles.
I did the same piston soak except that I didn't use the aerosol version. I used the Berryman liquid and poured it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. I went from burning a qt every 1100 miles to about 2500 miles.
that is still a great outcome. How long did you soak yours for?
05-09-2024, 05:47 PM
I think I may have cured my Oil Consumption!!
