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Audi Q7 drivetrain reliablity, worth a new engine at 105000 miles?

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Old 04-19-2024, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by kelisko
Which is why you ditched your "pretty reliable" one for a Toyota
I am not here to argue things out. my two Q7s over 85K left me stranded a total of once due to a known wire harness corrosion issue. I had nothing but good experiences with the vehicles reliability wise unlike you have had with your burnt valve, carbon filled, PCV failed, cylinder wall scored, intercooler clogged exceptionally high mileage used prior generation A7. if you want to continue to stir the pot you should do so on the A7 subsection. go take a hike.
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Old 04-19-2024, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mhoran89
I am not here to argue things out. my two Q7s over 85K left me stranded a total of once due to a known wire harness corrosion issue. I had nothing but good experiences with the vehicles reliability wise unlike you have had with your burnt valve, carbon filled, PCV failed, cylinder wall scored, intercooler clogged exceptionally high mileage used prior generation A7. if you want to continue to stir the pot you should do so on the A7 subsection. go take a hike.
One warning is enough. They can take it or leave it. Personally with a CREC engine I think get an extended warranty that covers at least a new engine or sell it in once it starts using too much oil and out of warranty. You can replace the PCV valve if it has failed and continue driving is my opinion but if you do nothing it’s going to be an engine failure if you keep it. Gunar
Old 04-20-2024, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mhoran89
I am not here to argue things out.
Unfortunately you did not give that impression by contradicting the suggestion I gave the OP. You gave yours, I gave mine. You argue with mine, I argue with yours. What happened to the OP at 100K miles happened to me at 140K miles and happened to others at 70K miles. We are seeing more and more people report this failure at random mileages almost every week. I have researched thoroughly my problem and took the best decision to me which is not to follow that path of throwing money through the windows which is what I am advising the OP not to do. You did not even get to experience that imminent engine failure but you ditched you Audi for a Toyota. If you don't want me to argue with your suggestion, please don't argue with mine.
Old 04-20-2024, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ewgoforth
I don't have a picture, but I might be able to get one. It's the #2 cylinder.
Sorry to hear about your situation. I’d get a second opinion, pressure tests and scopes of all cylinders before making a single head rebuild vs entire rebuilt engine decision.
My 2019 is only at 45k so I can’t directly speak to longevity questions however lifespans for many major items correlate with maintenance and fluids used. Do you have maintenance history from before you bought it?
I would also look at the financial aspect, is your Q7 in really good condition and with lots of options which would increase KBB resale value? Also if you buy a rebuilt engine is the warranty transferable if something crazy happens to the Q7 and you want to resell the engine?
Old 04-21-2024, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by millertic
I went looking out of curiosity a few months back just incase I run into this problem down the road, sharper edge engines quoted me 11,500 for a rebuilt CREC and they claim they use upgraded, modified piston rings to prevent the oil burn issues. Seems like it’s not a terrible deal if you plan on keeping the Q long term and nothing else is wrong with it. If you’re handy and can mange all the other nuisance issues it might be worth keeping it.
Honestly, this is great info given the valve issues folks are seeing. Who is going to be the first to test their rebuilds?
Old 04-21-2024, 07:05 AM
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Not gonna be keeping my Q7 past 70,000 miles.. warranty is up in 2027, so I’ll be getting rid of it then for a BMW or Porsche. While the Q7 has awesome build quality, handling, and looks, I hear about all these issues with this motor and the new Q7’s are too ugly and over priced in my opinion.
Old 04-21-2024, 07:16 AM
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As set forth in my signature, I have owned two Audis from new through 140K miles plus. Based on my experience these cars get costly to “maintain” once they pass the 120k mile mark, especially if you don’t do the work yourself.
Old 04-21-2024, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by PunsGalore
Not gonna be keeping my Q7 past 70,000 miles.. warranty is up in 2027, so I’ll be getting rid of it then for a BMW or Porsche. While the Q7 has awesome build quality, handling, and looks, I hear about all these issues with this motor and the new Q7’s are too ugly and over priced in my opinion.
My wife has the 17 Q7 - First time I have ever said I am glad she bought the 2.0T is after all of these threads. Its at 90k and I have been encouraging her to trade in. Honestly, I am tired of it and would like her to get into an X5. I have a 328d with 160k. Plan to see how far I can take that one
Old 04-22-2024, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ewgoforth
Hi,

It looks like our 2017 Audi Q7 3.0 V6 has burnt a valve. It currently has 105,000 or so miles. Rebuilding the head with the burnt valve would be around $8k, but I worry that a valve on the other head might fail. We also had pretty severe oil burning that I was going to try to fix with a Liqui Moly flush and pouring a potion of marvel mystery oil and sea foam in each spark plug hole, I saw several people say this had reduced their oil consumption significantly, but there's certainly no guarantee. For this reason I was thinking about getting a rebuilt engine is around $15000.

I'm assuming the remanufactured engine is maybe not quite as good as a brand new engine, so I'm conservatively assuming it's life would be 90,000 miles. How likely is it that the rest of the car will go another 90,000 miles? Consumer Reports says the transmission is very reliable, but not the drive system which they say consists of:

Driveshaft or axle, CV joint, differential, transfer case, four-wheel-drive/all-wheel-drive components, driveline vibration, electrical failure, traction control, electronic stability control.

Replacing a CV joint or an ABS/traction control sensor wouldn't be too bad, but a differential would be. What other problems would this car be likely to experience?

Thanks
Depending on your ability I'd say rebuild. At 77K miles I decided to rebuild the motor with 034Motorsport forged internals (bottom end) and titanium valve springs and retainers. Besides a slew of other FBO parts to include a TTE810. My goal is different, but ultimately you'll be building a more confident motor. Strong bottom end, eliminating valve float. Other than that, the only issue I had was a failed thermostat at 44K miles.





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Old 04-23-2024, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Irvin Fitzgerald
My goal is different, but ultimately you'll be building a more confident motor.
I like your thinking, rebuild it better (and probably quicker) than original.

How many miles do you have on your rebuild and have you dyno or track tested it?


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