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Compound = abrasive product intended to remove scratches if light enough, or at least make them appear less obvious. A good compound will not leave any scouring of the surface and can be safely used by hand or machine. Only necessary when the paint has a defect such as a scuff, swirls, light scratches, bird dropping etching eye. Requires rubbing effort and do not allow the product to dry.
Polish = extremely mild abrasive, safe to use anytime. Intended to get the very best in natural gloss from your paint. The very finest of swirls might be removed but less effective. Usually considered an optional step and best results are seen on darker colours due to light reflectivity. Requires effort and do not allow the product to dry.
Wax = protection. Always the last step. Both a polish and a compound will remove a wax. So will your average dishwashing liquid. Absolutely pointless to wax your car and then a few days later, attack it with dishwashing liquid. Over and above protecting, a wax also builds artificial depth and gloss to the paint. A good wax will contain filling properties which will also mask ( not remove) fine swirls. Does not require effort and the product must dry on the surface before buffing to a shine.
A little more on clay - clay is abrasive. Oh yes it is. You get mild and aggressive versions. Always use a lubricant. Even used carefully, a clay can put micro scratches into your paint. Don't be fooled into thinking that clay is a be all end all product. It is an essential part of any respectable detailing kit but for best results, especially on darker colours, an application of polish and then wax is the way to go after a clay 'treatment'. At the very least, a coat of wax. A clay removes above surface contamination.
Dalancroft, why not simply use the Blackfire product on your Q? Is it actually black in colour? Why do you prefer it only for darker cars (i.e. mine is Glacier white)?
Thanks again for the great advice guys!
Cheers,
Al
Yes, the stuff I bought -- which is a wax, not a sealant, and said by the manufacturer to last a full six months -- is jet black. If I leave a little residue on my wife's black car, it's invisible. But painfully visible on my silver Q!
Wax is a natural product (although they can be replicated in a lab) and carnuba waxes like the FleetWax brand are rated possibly the glossiest shine you can get, from any product. FleetWax makes several products, all non-abrasive and used on things like expensive yachts and aircraft.
Polishes are synthetics. That's the only difference between a polish and a wax. Polishes can last longer than waxes and some of the best claim to shine almost as well as the best waxes.
So you pick a highly recommended brand name of either one, follow the instructions, and see what makes you and your wallet happy. Some people like to say they bought the most expensive product on the market and that makes them happier with it. Some folks prefer to try a few and see how the shine goes.
ZUNE - Detailing is an entire new world of it's own. Lots of science and lots options too (I've already seen some totally false info given to you). And more products that you can even imagine. If you aren't looking to get into that world but what a nice car, here's what you need to know...and a few things you done.
EVERY new car should be washed, decontaminated, polished, and protected. That's four separate items. None of the four can accomplish what any of the other ones can...they are all specific in their own way.
Wash: For first wash (or any wash prior to protecting) you can simply use Dawn Dish Soap. For washing after, and between, protecting, this is a great, low-cost wash that's very compatible with a wide variety of protection products. Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate #901
After you settle on a protection product you like, you could change to a wash made by that specific company that would be most compatible.
Decontaminate: This is the step of remove bonded surface contaminates from the paint prior to polishing and protecting. This is want makes the paint smooth as glass. Contaminates include tax, rail dust, bird droppings, tree sap, and other fall-out. Ever brand new cars can have this simply from sitting outside at the dealer for a day or two. If you don't believe that...wash and dry the car and then put you hand in a plastic zip-lock baggie and rub your hand on the hood of the car. Feel all those little bumps? That's the stuff you want off of there. Even feeling it with the bare hand can be hard, but it's there.
A couple people in this thread have referred to claying. That's what we're talking about here, but "claying" is old school and takes time and patience. This is the product of today: Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt
Yes it's expensive, but you'll use it many times (probably a few times a year) and it will be your best friend.
Also get this: Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant Concentrate
This is the lubricant for the mit above. The lube allows you to use the mit when the car is dry. Another method is washing the car (but don't dry) and then re-soap the car and use the mit. Sometimes if the temps are high, the method with the lube allows you to go panel by panel so water is drying on your car constantly.
Polish: Polishing either removes defects OR brings the gloss and brilliant out of the paint. This is all dependent on the product being used and what the paint's needs are. Being new, you shouldn't have defects to remove for the most part. So you simply need a finishing polish to bring out the best of the paint. And you can still do this by hand. Anything requiring defects to be removed from the paint really requires a buffer (a step you may not want to take at this point). Here's an amazing finishing polish that's very easy to use: CarPro Reflect Polish
I recommend this one because it's very high quality and is one of the best to use with a machine if you go that route in the future..and it's available in a small bottle size to try out. It's very much intended for what you're trying to accomplish on this first polish. Polish offers NO, ZERO, ZILCH in the way of protection.
Protectant: This is the most confusing part. The are WAX products, SEALANT products, and COATING products. And then there are hybrid versions of all of it.
WAXes are natural like your carnauba. They provide nice depth on black, red, and other non-metallic colors. They generally don't look so good on silver, white, and light colors compared to other products. They don't allow metallic to "pop" like other products. Waxes don't last long as far as durability. Most detailers use waxes on show cars, garage queens, or if they don't mind re-waxed every few weeks.
SEALANTs are chemically created to bond to the paint and last a long time. They generally don't have a ton of depth on black or non-metallic cars, but many will debate that. They do allow for alot of metallic "pop" and give shine to silver and white cars. They are VERY easy to apply/remove and last upwards of 6 months.
COATINGs are the newest. Depending on brand, they can last 2 years or more. Some can have a learning curve to applying. They offer gloss and protection and are a great choice for daily drivers or for those who don't want to mess with their car all the time other than washing. You do have to be careful of what you wash the car with as to not affect the coating. When totally dried (cured), a coating is basically a layer of glass protecting your car. You definitely want any defects removed from the paint prior to putting a coating on. If you want more information on coating, I can send you to the expert to help you down that road.
For the protection process, I would recommend a SEALANT. It's easy to deal with all-around and will give you great protection. Your call will look good as long as you wash it.
Probably one of the easiest and best sealants I've used to-date (and I've used alot) is: Prima Hydro MAX Super Spray Polymer
It couldn't be any easier. And because it's so easy (if you don't mind the cost-of-product), it be applied anytime you wash if you want that "just detailed" look back.
Depending on the color of your car and what "system" you decide on, I could offer more specific information, but I hope this helps. I linked product all from the same vendor for convenience, but you may find cheaper elsewhere. Autogeek does have coupons and sales ALL THE TIME...especially if you get on the mailing list.
If you want to talk about proper washing items and drying towels, let me know. I don't want to go on and on about something you may already have.
Good luck
ZUNE - Detailing is an entire new world of it's own. Lots of science and lots options too (I've already seen some totally false info given to you). And more products that you can even imagine. If you aren't looking to get into that world but what a nice car, here's what you need to know...and a few things you done.
EVERY new car should be washed, decontaminated, polished, and protected. That's four separate items. None of the four can accomplish what any of the other ones can...they are all specific in their own way.
Wash: For first wash (or any wash prior to protecting) you can simply use Dawn Dish Soap. For washing after, and between, protecting, this is a great, low-cost wash that's very compatible with a wide variety of protection products. Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate #901
After you settle on a protection product you like, you could change to a wash made by that specific company that would be most compatible.
Decontaminate: This is the step of remove bonded surface contaminates from the paint prior to polishing and protecting. This is want makes the paint smooth as glass. Contaminates include tax, rail dust, bird droppings, tree sap, and other fall-out. Ever brand new cars can have this simply from sitting outside at the dealer for a day or two. If you don't believe that...wash and dry the car and then put you hand in a plastic zip-lock baggie and rub your hand on the hood of the car. Feel all those little bumps? That's the stuff you want off of there. Even feeling it with the bare hand can be hard, but it's there.
A couple people in this thread have referred to claying. That's what we're talking about here, but "claying" is old school and takes time and patience. This is the product of today: Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt
Yes it's expensive, but you'll use it many times (probably a few times a year) and it will be your best friend.
Also get this: Nanoskin Glide Instant Detail Spray Lubricant Concentrate
This is the lubricant for the mit above. The lube allows you to use the mit when the car is dry. Another method is washing the car (but don't dry) and then re-soap the car and use the mit. Sometimes if the temps are high, the method with the lube allows you to go panel by panel so water is drying on your car constantly.
Polish: Polishing either removes defects OR brings the gloss and brilliant out of the paint. This is all dependent on the product being used and what the paint's needs are. Being new, you shouldn't have defects to remove for the most part. So you simply need a finishing polish to bring out the best of the paint. And you can still do this by hand. Anything requiring defects to be removed from the paint really requires a buffer (a step you may not want to take at this point). Here's an amazing finishing polish that's very easy to use: CarPro Reflect Polish
I recommend this one because it's very high quality and is one of the best to use with a machine if you go that route in the future..and it's available in a small bottle size to try out. It's very much intended for what you're trying to accomplish on this first polish. Polish offers NO, ZERO, ZILCH in the way of protection.
Protectant: This is the most confusing part. The are WAX products, SEALANT products, and COATING products. And then there are hybrid versions of all of it.
WAXes are natural like your carnauba. They provide nice depth on black, red, and other non-metallic colors. They generally don't look so good on silver, white, and light colors compared to other products. They don't allow metallic to "pop" like other products. Waxes don't last long as far as durability. Most detailers use waxes on show cars, garage queens, or if they don't mind re-waxed every few weeks.
SEALANTs are chemically created to bond to the paint and last a long time. They generally don't have a ton of depth on black or non-metallic cars, but many will debate that. They do allow for alot of metallic "pop" and give shine to silver and white cars. They are VERY easy to apply/remove and last upwards of 6 months.
COATINGs are the newest. Depending on brand, they can last 2 years or more. Some can have a learning curve to applying. They offer gloss and protection and are a great choice for daily drivers or for those who don't want to mess with their car all the time other than washing. You do have to be careful of what you wash the car with as to not affect the coating. When totally dried (cured), a coating is basically a layer of glass protecting your car. You definitely want any defects removed from the paint prior to putting a coating on. If you want more information on coating, I can send you to the expert to help you down that road.
For the protection process, I would recommend a SEALANT. It's easy to deal with all-around and will give you great protection. Your call will look good as long as you wash it.
Probably one of the easiest and best sealants I've used to-date (and I've used alot) is: Prima Hydro MAX Super Spray Polymer
It couldn't be any easier. And because it's so easy (if you don't mind the cost-of-product), it be applied anytime you wash if you want that "just detailed" look back.
Depending on the color of your car and what "system" you decide on, I could offer more specific information, but I hope this helps. I linked product all from the same vendor for convenience, but you may find cheaper elsewhere. Autogeek does have coupons and sales ALL THE TIME...especially if you get on the mailing list.
If you want to talk about proper washing items and drying towels, let me know. I don't want to go on and on about something you may already have.
Good luck
Thanks for posting your brief synopsis; very well stated and right on, though with the pro detailers, it seems there is no great consensus on which products are the "best." The vast majority of new car owners are unaware of the contamination that already exists on their cars right off the lot. I have been doing my own detailing for a few years and don't mind doing it. However, I will check out those products you mention, though and again, many products have their own adherents; some people swear by Zaino, Klasse, Black Diamond, Collinite, etc.etc.etc.
Thanks for all your great posts guys, & thanks "cobrar97" for your excellent detailed advice. I was kind of leaning towards a sealant (vs. wax), & wasn't aware of the difference in them on dark vs. light/white cars. Makes me more confident about my decision. I originally wasn't too worried about surface contaminants -- my car came on special order straight from the factory (see attached "gift wrapped" photo right off the truck from Germany! Picked it up the next day), but I now understand the importance of "claying"/decontamination. I'll give it a whirl & post an update soon.
Al...WOW...isn't that exciting. I still have a month+ until mine arrives...so I know the waiting you've been doing. I think the sealant route is definitely your best choice since I see the color now. You're already ahead of 95% of car owners with the fact that you care about the upkeep to begin with. GOOD LUCK, and please post some pictures when it's all shined up.
Bob...Yes, the detailing product world is vast. I think they make a different product for every single person in the world. Therefore, the choices, combinations, and the likes/dislikes are massive. There's certainly no right or wrong to it. I'm one that likes to try things, so I'm always "giving it a shot". I've been a sealant user for years now, but my dad won't use anything buy carnauba. I JUST ordered (should arrive today) the CQuart coating products. Excited to give that "next best thing" a try and see what I think.
09-27-2014, 07:24 AM
