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- Audi Q5 How to Replace Brake Pads Calipers and Rotors<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
2012 Audi Q5 Front Brake Job
09-24-2013, 03:25 PM
#11
AudiWorld Senior Member
On the Centric Posi pads, you just move the sensor from the old pads to the new pads. Speed sensor is not an issue. The kit also comes with factory-type anti-squeal shims. I always use some anti-squeal compound as well - available at all auto parts stores.
Now for some of the finer points of pad changes.
Suck out some fluid from the reservoir to make room for the new pads. Better yet, suck it all out and do a fluid change using a different color fluid so you can see the change, such as ATE Super Blue DOT 4. Flush off fluid spills with copious amounts of clean water. The esters in brake fluid lift paint very effectively.
Leave the old pads loaded in the caliper to make prying them all the open easier (forcing the piston all the way in)
If you're doing the rears, you need a VAG-COM to electronically retract the pistons.
Once it''s all back together, DON'T PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL FULL STROKE. That's a good way to nick the soft piston seal on rough areas of the master cylinder that never see action with your old contaminated fluid. Do short strokes instead. You don't want to have to end up replacing the master cylinder, right? They're hundreds of dollars, never a picnic to change out, and provide no performance improvement, other than the pedal doesn't fall anymore.
Finally, perhaps most important, follow bedding instructions here:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Now for some of the finer points of pad changes.
Suck out some fluid from the reservoir to make room for the new pads. Better yet, suck it all out and do a fluid change using a different color fluid so you can see the change, such as ATE Super Blue DOT 4. Flush off fluid spills with copious amounts of clean water. The esters in brake fluid lift paint very effectively.
Leave the old pads loaded in the caliper to make prying them all the open easier (forcing the piston all the way in)
If you're doing the rears, you need a VAG-COM to electronically retract the pistons.
Once it''s all back together, DON'T PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL FULL STROKE. That's a good way to nick the soft piston seal on rough areas of the master cylinder that never see action with your old contaminated fluid. Do short strokes instead. You don't want to have to end up replacing the master cylinder, right? They're hundreds of dollars, never a picnic to change out, and provide no performance improvement, other than the pedal doesn't fall anymore.
Finally, perhaps most important, follow bedding instructions here:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
I never heard of not pressing the pedal all the way, makes sense. If you need to bleed after replacing a caliper and you don't want to press the pedal all the way down one would think a block of wood under the pedal part way down would make it easier to keep the pedal completely still until the bleeder is closed as to not induce air to the system.
09-24-2013, 06:14 PM
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Spijun had a post with a list of Audi approved OEM brake pad brands in the past month. Here it is https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=42 You will need to make sure these part numbers are for your model.
No speed sensor change should be necessary.
Dennis
Last edited by DennisMitchell; 09-24-2013 at 06:30 PM.
03-19-2014, 11:32 AM
#15
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These are going on tomorrow, Federal Mogul Wagner Quick Stop OE ZX1322 semi metallic. Delivered for less than $40 from Rock Auto.
The back of the pad is labeled Ferodo FDB4044 as can be seen in the picture. This appears to be their Premier line of pads, maybe some of you guys in Europe have experience with them.
Here's what Wagner's web site has to say about them:
Wagner QuickStop®, from the #1 Global OE & Aftermarket Friction manufacturer, restores vehicles to original equipment braking performance.
◾Designed, Tested and Certified in the USA by Federal-Mogul’s OE Engineers
◾100% OE post-cured to ensure even friction performance throughout the life of the pad
◾OE-matched friction formulations and configurations to restore like-new braking performance
◾Comprehensive coverage for all makes — Asian, European and Domestic applications
◾Application-specific shims to reduce noise causing vibration
◾Chamfers and slots designed to effectively control noise
◾Installation hardware kits included on key applications
◾Includes OE-style lubricant
The back of the pad is labeled Ferodo FDB4044 as can be seen in the picture. This appears to be their Premier line of pads, maybe some of you guys in Europe have experience with them.
Here's what Wagner's web site has to say about them:
Wagner QuickStop®, from the #1 Global OE & Aftermarket Friction manufacturer, restores vehicles to original equipment braking performance.
◾Designed, Tested and Certified in the USA by Federal-Mogul’s OE Engineers
◾100% OE post-cured to ensure even friction performance throughout the life of the pad
◾OE-matched friction formulations and configurations to restore like-new braking performance
◾Comprehensive coverage for all makes — Asian, European and Domestic applications
◾Application-specific shims to reduce noise causing vibration
◾Chamfers and slots designed to effectively control noise
◾Installation hardware kits included on key applications
◾Includes OE-style lubricant
Last edited by pcfithian; 03-19-2014 at 12:42 PM.
03-19-2014, 12:07 PM
#16
AudiWorld Senior Member
You will most probably be just fine with just pads if smooth stopping now. New pads on old rotors can be stinky (Burnt brakes smell) at first especially if you park in a garage. As always be careful with hot rotors and deep puddles if you want your brakes to stay smooth.
03-19-2014, 12:36 PM
#17
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You will most probably be just fine with just pads if smooth stopping now. New pads on old rotors can be stinky (Burnt brakes smell) at first especially if you park in a garage. As always be careful with hot rotors and deep puddles if you want your brakes to stay smooth.
In my experience with many brake jobs, rotors are good for two sets of pads unless they are warped.
03-20-2014, 11:34 AM
#18
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Job completed, easiest brake job I've ever done.
For each side, two 13mm bolts, a spring clip, and 1 pad sensor wire (driver side only). Less than 1 hour for both sides.
Old pads were at 3 mm friction surface thickness, compared to the new pads at 10.3 mm thickness.
Braking is smooth and powerful with the new pads.
For each side, two 13mm bolts, a spring clip, and 1 pad sensor wire (driver side only). Less than 1 hour for both sides.
Old pads were at 3 mm friction surface thickness, compared to the new pads at 10.3 mm thickness.
Braking is smooth and powerful with the new pads.
03-25-2014, 06:32 AM
#19
I had to do my brakes last year (when I rebuilt my car after buying it from an insurance writeoff). With me it wasn't the pads that were worn out - the front rotors were too thin and the rears were starting to wear. I'm not sure what the person before me did, but with 36500km on the car, I found it hard to believe that the rotors were as worn out as they were. I ended up buying the parts from my local dealer in Canada (due to shipping costing a fortune for 4 rotors) and it cost me around $750 for all rotors and pads.
The brakes themselves are damn easy to change, though yes you do need VCDS for the rears (I already had the cable since I had to read a lot of codes and reset the airbag system). For anyone doing brake jobs themselves, invest in a brake caliper compressor kit - it works for all cars and makes life VERY easy when compressing the piston back. It also leaves less of a chance to screw up the caliper. The kits also come with adapters for rear discs that need to be turned and pushed at the same time (making it kind of a joke to do this - no harder than the fronts).
If anyone is wondering, AUDI OEM pads come with the caliper bolts with lock-tite on them, but the rotors do not come with bolts - you need to buy new bolts for the caliper bracket (It is highly recommended not to re-use the old ones, if I remember correctly they are torqued to somewhere around 90-100ft*lb).
The brakes themselves are damn easy to change, though yes you do need VCDS for the rears (I already had the cable since I had to read a lot of codes and reset the airbag system). For anyone doing brake jobs themselves, invest in a brake caliper compressor kit - it works for all cars and makes life VERY easy when compressing the piston back. It also leaves less of a chance to screw up the caliper. The kits also come with adapters for rear discs that need to be turned and pushed at the same time (making it kind of a joke to do this - no harder than the fronts).
If anyone is wondering, AUDI OEM pads come with the caliper bolts with lock-tite on them, but the rotors do not come with bolts - you need to buy new bolts for the caliper bracket (It is highly recommended not to re-use the old ones, if I remember correctly they are torqued to somewhere around 90-100ft*lb).
03-25-2014, 11:43 AM
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What is a VCDS?
I have done a lot of brake jobs and have never heard of turning and pushing a brake caliper cylinder at the same time.
Only 2500 miles on my Q5 but getting prepared.
I have done a lot of brake jobs and have never heard of turning and pushing a brake caliper cylinder at the same time.
Only 2500 miles on my Q5 but getting prepared.
