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- Audi Q5 How to Replace Wheel Hub and Bearings<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
$599 for a front wheel bearing ouch rant
07-18-2014, 04:43 AM
#21
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Big tools remind me of frequent visits to an abandoned train yard near Marquette, MI. in the mid-70's. Pistons the size of a 5 gal. bucket. Can you imagine wrenching on that scale? And we think we got it bad with a "tiny" 10mm(?) allen bolt!
So did you achieve torque + 1/2 turn? If so, tell the truth... didn't you worry that something other than the tools would break? Even torque + 1/4 turn was waaaay outside my comfort zone
So did you achieve torque + 1/2 turn? If so, tell the truth... didn't you worry that something other than the tools would break? Even torque + 1/4 turn was waaaay outside my comfort zone
07-18-2014, 03:12 PM
#22
AudiWorld Super User
IIRC, I think I actually did.
First, I broke the old Monkey Ward breaker bar I started with (that was the one that actually broke). Had used it for years, including a bunch of big crank pulley bolts. I went with a discarded piece of 2" galvanized drain pipe, having bent an antenna mast on some prior similar job. Then my newer and slightly shorter Craftsman breaker bar literally bent along its shaft--with the slop inside the 2" pipe--but didn't snap. That I returned as having some kind of "weird weak metal defect" while trying to keep a straight face... I stood on the pipe to do it, just moving the socket 1/6 turn as I zero'ed in at the end. Probably in there is where the bolt stretch is happening.
Another time I did it with a 10 foot pipe length--literally went to the back fender (was on the passenger side) pretty much. There I could kind of lift it upward as I tightened, since even the flex of the handle or the socket looseness on a ten foot lever arm makes for a lot of movement. Still stood on it near the last part of the exercise--had to do it on the street given how clunky the pipe length was.
Another time I did it with a 10 foot pipe length--literally went to the back fender (was on the passenger side) pretty much. There I could kind of lift it upward as I tightened, since even the flex of the handle or the socket looseness on a ten foot lever arm makes for a lot of movement. Still stood on it near the last part of the exercise--had to do it on the street given how clunky the pipe length was.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 07-18-2014 at 03:17 PM.
07-19-2014, 02:20 PM
#24
When I had to change my CV boot I had to replace the bolt (due to taking the shaft out). Yes I did go to torque and 180 degrees.
You could say I cheated though...I grabbed a torque multiplier from work to do the heavy work for me (1:6.5). The one I used is good all the way up to 1951ftlbs with only 300ftlbs in. Got the full 180 degrees out of it without even breaking a sweat. Without a torque multiplier I don't think I would have even tried to get that 180 degrees out of it.
You could say I cheated though...I grabbed a torque multiplier from work to do the heavy work for me (1:6.5). The one I used is good all the way up to 1951ftlbs with only 300ftlbs in. Got the full 180 degrees out of it without even breaking a sweat. Without a torque multiplier I don't think I would have even tried to get that 180 degrees out of it.
Last edited by Telate; 07-19-2014 at 02:26 PM.
07-20-2014, 04:18 AM
#25
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Did some further inspection of the so-called professional work that the dealer did. The rubber hydraulic brake line had a 360-degree twist in it. Sometimes a brake line twist is subtle but this one had a 1" coil. It's unclear how such an obvious problem was missed. Guessing it was just a matter of time before it ruptures from stress at full suspension extension, resulting in brake failure. The dealer did an oil change too so thought I better check the oil. It was at the low mark (I have a dipstick). Probably should drop the belly pan and check drain plug torque just to be safe. Ugh!
Last edited by ELEVENS; 07-21-2014 at 08:41 AM.
09-23-2014, 06:44 PM
#26
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$402 retail + 3 hours installation=$1,021 for rear wheel bearing
My Q5 only has 71k miles on it 
!!! I feel I was taken advantage now, I didn't believe the "women advantage" theory but now I have my doubts....
!!! I feel I was taken advantage now, I didn't believe the "women advantage" theory but now I have my doubts....$365 retail + 2 hours installation = $599. For that money shouldn't they last longer than 105,000 miles?
What idiots at the Kalamazoo, MI stealer. First it took 10 days to get the car in there. No loaner car was offered or available when asked.
I told them it was the RIGHT FRONT bearing. They called saying it was indeed a wheel bearing, and it would cost $599. I said the other side is likely bad too, how much to replace both? Service writer says another $599. You can't tell me there's no economy of scale having the car up on the hoist, paperwork and overhead covered, tools out, etc. So I said button it up and I'll do the other side myself. So they replaced the LEFT front bearing then called me to say after a test drive the other (right) side needs it too. No **** Sherlock!
Next the SW tells me I need to buy new brake pads because the "backing plate" fell off since it was glued on and the brake light will be on because the pad dropped and stretched the sensor cable. Well the pads are nearly brand new, they're aftermarket dustless pads so they have a detachable anti-squeal backer that's separate from the pad, and the red "glue" isn't glue it's anti-squeal compound. The spring clip was indeed detached thanks to a missing push nut but it was easy to fix by peening the mounting stud. The SW called back and offered to install new pads for free. That was nice. I say "thanks anyway" but I already have a set of those dusty OEM pads that dust so badly with only a thousand miles on them and I certainly don't want another pair! Just put the existing pads back in and I'll clean up their mess later.
I ordered the bearing for the other side from genuineaudiparts.com for $269. Unfortunate that I had to diagnose the problem (right bearing, not left) and suggest how to properly repair the car (repair both bearings on the axle).
Sorry for the rant but it really ruined the mood for the night. I feel better already
What idiots at the Kalamazoo, MI stealer. First it took 10 days to get the car in there. No loaner car was offered or available when asked.
I told them it was the RIGHT FRONT bearing. They called saying it was indeed a wheel bearing, and it would cost $599. I said the other side is likely bad too, how much to replace both? Service writer says another $599. You can't tell me there's no economy of scale having the car up on the hoist, paperwork and overhead covered, tools out, etc. So I said button it up and I'll do the other side myself. So they replaced the LEFT front bearing then called me to say after a test drive the other (right) side needs it too. No **** Sherlock!
Next the SW tells me I need to buy new brake pads because the "backing plate" fell off since it was glued on and the brake light will be on because the pad dropped and stretched the sensor cable. Well the pads are nearly brand new, they're aftermarket dustless pads so they have a detachable anti-squeal backer that's separate from the pad, and the red "glue" isn't glue it's anti-squeal compound. The spring clip was indeed detached thanks to a missing push nut but it was easy to fix by peening the mounting stud. The SW called back and offered to install new pads for free. That was nice. I say "thanks anyway" but I already have a set of those dusty OEM pads that dust so badly with only a thousand miles on them and I certainly don't want another pair! Just put the existing pads back in and I'll clean up their mess later.
I ordered the bearing for the other side from genuineaudiparts.com for $269. Unfortunate that I had to diagnose the problem (right bearing, not left) and suggest how to properly repair the car (repair both bearings on the axle).
Sorry for the rant but it really ruined the mood for the night. I feel better already
09-23-2014, 08:43 PM
#27
Did some further inspection of the so-called professional work that the dealer did. The rubber hydraulic brake line had a 360-degree twist in it. Sometimes a brake line twist is subtle but this one had a 1" coil. It's unclear how such an obvious problem was missed. Guessing it was just a matter of time before it ruptures from stress at full suspension extension, resulting in brake failure. The dealer did an oil change too so thought I better check the oil. It was at the low mark (I have a dipstick). Probably should drop the belly pan and check drain plug torque just to be safe. Ugh!
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