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nitroxextreme 06-13-2006 10:55 AM

My Audio Upgrade (long)
 
Over the past four days I spent over 50 hrs working on my car. Below is a list of upgrades some pictures as well as some tutorials on stuff that I could not find here or elsewhere. Alot of the work was done solely by me, but I did have the help of my friend on days 2-4 for some of the time.

I would like to thank everyone that directly our indirectly helped me out through posts on the forums or elsewhere. I would like to especially thank Avincar for all of the help that he provided me with. He led me to DLS and I could not be happier.

Upgrades:
-DLS UP6
-DLS MW110
-DLS RA40
-Blaukput Adapter
-Blitzsafe behind HU Aux input
-Sound Deadening(eDead)
-Window Guides


The first thing that I decided to do was to fiberglass the subbox into the corner of my trunk. I decided to use the side were the cd-changer would be (since i was gonna be installing an Aux input).

So I had to remove the trim in the back.

First you need to remove the carpet in the trunk...easy enough.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_004.jpg">

Then you need to remove the plastic piece where the latch is.
-first remove two screws
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_005.jpg">

-the screws behind the handles
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_006.jpg">

-the light needs to be disconnected
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_007.jpg">

-pull out towards back seat in the middle (I marked with masking tape)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_008.jpg">

-finally you just pull straight up to pop out the "pins" (sry no pic of that)

After that pieces is removed you can move onto the sides
-There are two plastic "pins" that are visible..just pop them out with your puddy knife
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_009.jpg">

-next remove the handle in the front by the back seat (screws here are very long compared to the back)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_010.jpg">

-in the cubby hole there will be 2 plastic tabs at the bottom...they just need to be poped up towards trunk lid
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_013.jpg">

-the plastic piece above the cubby needs to get poped out...just pins so pull (or use puddy knife)

-after all of these things are done you can move onto the rear seats...yes they need to come out
I used BostonDrivers rear seat remove instructions found (https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/522030.phtml)

After the rear trim was out I continued to remove the cd-changer harness and the locking horn (usually didnt work anyway). Then I moved onto taping out the section (this took alot longer than expected). I used about two rolls of masking tape, cardboard for spacing(filling gaps) and tin foil for an over layer. I used the tutorials (http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/) for guidance. Below is a picture of my matterials that I got for fiberglassing...from USCOMPOSITES I got 3:1 epoxy resin (1gal), 4yds Kyntex, and pumps...from HD I got some trow away brushes, masking tape, plastic mixing "bowls", respirators, and gloves
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_002.jpg">

After I put down about 2 layers of glass I let it set.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audishots_024.jpg">

I then took it out and put about 3 more layers on and let it dry. The next day I moved onto finishing it. I cut a mdf face and put 2 sides on it. I then fiberglassed it to the enclosure(PITA)..hopefully 2 layers everywhere for that. After that dryed I put a bead of chaulk around the outside. Let it dry then put some polyfil in it (I got a kick when I went to a faberic store asked for it...they said your building a pillow..I'm like no subbox..they walked away speachless). Then I fed some wires in through a hole, put the sub in and chaulked the hole.
Finished Product
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_009.jpg">




While the Fiberglass was Drying I did some other work. I did the front window guides...as well as some sound deadening. Used (https://www.audiworld.com/tech/int45.shtml) for window guides and (https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/507704.phtml) for sound deadening. Not to bad to do...just a PITA to get the windows lined back up(I marked my shims and it was still PITA.
Some Pictures (I used eDead bought 60ft and still had above 10 left over.)

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_011.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_014.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_015.jpg">



Next thing to do was to run some wires. Used another Boston driver(https://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/608511.phtml) to removed the side trim. I also took out the glove box and panel under the steering wheel. Not to bad to do just be careful. The wires ran pretty easy...just wish I ran them to the doors when the windows where off. I found a nice hole in the firewall for the 4awg power wire.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_016.jpg">

When looking from driver seat its right above the steering column...you cannot see it from the engine side because it has been painted over. I just poped the plastic piece out...cut a hole and used it as a gromet.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_017.jpg">



Next Project on the list was the Amp rack:
I made it out of some 3/4 MDF board, some 2x4s, and some aluminum angle that I made into brackets.
I bracketed the 2/4s to the mdf then carpeted it. Then I made some more brackets to attach to the top of the trunk. Had about 1 inch above the amp (prob alittle less)...but it is mounted right side up. I was aliitle disapointed as to how it came out and may redo it in August.
Dont worry I used nylocks on final product...Hex nuts for placement/drillin holes.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_012.jpg">



I decided to take a "break" and do the behind the HU stuff. Didnt end up that way. I plugged in the adapters and then the RCAs. However, I knew I needed to ground that "bose" pin and I was still unaware of what was correct. I ended up grounding the Gala wire in my harness it was in pin 1 so...i went for it ( dont know if it worked...just dont know what to listen for). I was feeling alittle couragous at the moment so I decided to run the Aux in cable throughthe coin holder used (https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec104.shtml) to take it out. Then i dremeled a hole for the wire through the back. Left the front "stock" so it could be shut. When taking it apart be careful with the spring (I broke mine and had to use the extra on the spool to cut a new end.)



After all that I was ready to mover onto the doors and the speakers. Anyone who is planning on the UP6s...the crossovers are "huge". I took off the door panels and removed the previous hardware.

Then I put the woofers int with the suplied screws. Works perfectly just watch the one screw that is cosest to the firewall on the bottom (if you screw it too much it may pop out other side).
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_002.jpg">

I then decided to work on the tweeters. I tryed to put the new ones in with no modification, but they had a non removable grill so that didnt work. I then dremeled the hole alittle bigger and took off the two small tabs around the hole. Finally, I placed the tweeter in and hot glued them into place.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_005.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_006.jpg">

The crossover was the hardest part to mount. It just was too big to fit anywhere. However, I was able to find 2 places that it could fit. 1 was in the middle in betwee the two tabs and the other was where I mounted it.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_001.jpg">

However, This place was angled and hence hard to mount to. I ended up using alot of hot glue. Not sure if it will work out...any thoughts( I may swap out for some 2 part epoxy if need be).

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_007.jpg">

You can really see the hot glue here.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/107255/audi2_008.jpg">


Only major problem I had putting the car back together was with the sub enclosure. I had fited it mutiple times, but without the deadening. So it stuck out alittle to much but only in the back. I just took one of the longer screws for the handles and screwed it int he back. It worked out...not i just need to make a cover for there.


After all was said and done I pluged the battery back and tested all the electronics besides the audio first...the windows needed to get "reset" I would say(at first they would not be complete auto up down, but they soon remembered (wierd)).

I then turned on the Audio. The Symphony didnt like not having power so it kicked my cd out and said "want!". Dont know what that ment but I just put the cd back in and it went away.

I started to listen to some music and I was blown away at the sound I was getting from my new system. I was especially happy that my sub didnt thump. I tryed to do some tuning, but I have no idea where to start so that really didnt help to much. I also tryed to phase the sub towars the front, but I couldnt notice a difference(again novice ears dont hear that much differnce).
Does anyone have coments on how to tune a system?

Thanks again to anyone and everyone that made this install posible.

Any Comments Are welcome...

mchang 06-13-2006 02:24 PM

nice. dls? never used 'em. you like?
 
can you compare to other units?

also, I'm not a fan of crossovers in the doors... just another item to get cold and nasty in the doors, plus subject to constant slamming. In my other projects, I've always mounted them with the amps in the rack and run extra speaker wire.

just my 2 cents.

avincar 06-13-2006 03:39 PM

way to go, man. Builds character :) But how does it SOUND?

avincar 06-13-2006 04:54 PM

forgot - tuning part
 
Basically, you don't want to do a lot of tuning until the woofer and tweeters break in.

Give it 4 hours of playing time.

You want to experiment with the HP crossover setting for the fronts (between 65 and 90) and the LP crossover to the woofer (between 60 and 80).

Put it where it sounds best :)

You can't easily experiment with passive UP6 xover setting. But after the tweeters are broken in, you might want to change the output level jumper position.

With the woofer, reversing (+) and (-) and listening from the driver's seat will tell you which polarity position (normal or reverse) sounds best.

DJ_JonnyV 06-13-2006 04:55 PM

Very Nice...Hoping to have mine finished up this week as well.
 
I was thinking about putting a sub in the same location, but that's going to be a later date. That definitely points me in the right direction on what to do. Also, you mention grounding the Bose pin, is this something strictly for working with Bose systems? Also, did you replace the entire black 20 pin connector? Thanks and nice work again!

turbo_flipper 06-13-2006 07:59 PM

DLS is fairly new to America...
 
they've been in Europe for a while and are pretty big over there. I've got DLS speakers in my doors and they're amazing...very highly recommended

nitroxextreme 06-14-2006 04:43 AM

Thanks...
 
All I can say in the sound department is amazing...its like nothing I have ever herd in a car before.

I had never herd a sub set up for SQ tho and I was unsure as to what it should sound like. Should it be herd or just there for like acoustic support? I just could not seem to issolate it from the other sounds, when i tryed to play around with the phase alittle.

I should use the hp filter after they are broken it...for the breakin period should I let them play full range?

Also...what are your thoughts on hot glue...do you think I should swap that out for some two part epoxy?

nitroxextreme 06-14-2006 04:49 AM

Some advice...
 
Putting the sub in that location is very challenging and was very nerve racking. I put alot of hours into it and it still didnt fit perfectly...the last corner hated me when i wanted to put it back together.

The bose pin is what makes a bose system a "bose" system. There was a debate on this forum alittle while back and it was determined that the only way to get a flat response was to groud the bose pin. In my symphony I non-bose the pin which was described as pin 1 of 8 pin harness had a wire in it (this scared me alittle). However, I went along with it anyway just cuse I knew it would make a difference. Again on my pinout it called the bose pin GALA.

In regards to the black 20 pin connector. Yes it was completely replaced. However, It just unplugged and plugged into the blitzsafe adapter. That part was a very easy install.

nitroxextreme 06-14-2006 09:19 AM

***Update***
 
I didnt notice this before...

There is a slight "pop" if you want to call it that when the headunit is turned on.

Is there any way to fix this...if not and it as long as it doesnt hurt the speakers I am fine with it.

avincar 06-14-2006 12:35 PM

Use the HP right away. Hot glue... small bits can be OK, but not big globs.
 
It's not a bad way to secure tweeters from rattling (along with other mechanical mounting), but for heavy items like crossovers you're on the bubble.

Make sure it's VERY high-temp hot glue, and if you're in a hot part of the country, it's only a matter of time.


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