Possible Starter Issue?
 

I drive a 1993 Audi S4. I recently replaced the thermostat and thermostat housing to fix an overheating issue. After a few days of driving it, I accidentally left the lights on and killed the battery (probably because I've been driving a motorcycle for the past 8 months where I don't have to turn the lights off). I jumped it and drove it home. When I went to drive it again I put the key in and turned it per usual, but this time it started making a clicking noise. Not like it wasn't starting but it was having a problem. All of the display lights blinked on and off together while the key was being turned and after like 2 or 3 seconds a small amount of smoke came from the steering column. I not sure exactly what the problem is but I think maybe something is shorting in the starter? What should my first step be in trying to fix this?

Ignition switch.

When you turn the ignition switch to START, it sends current to a solenoid on the outside of the starter. This solenoid (basically an electromagnet) tries to throw the stater gear into the ring gear on the flywheel and engage the starter to start turning the engine. If the battery voltage is too low, you get the solenoid working but there is not enough power to actually spin the starter. The clicking noise is the starter gear banging on the ring gear on the edge of the flywheel (but without enough energy to actually turn the flywheel (and crankshaft)).

So the first thing is to charge your battery back to 12 V (i.e. 11.5 or so) with a battery charger.

The smoke? No sure. The ignition switch is NOT in the steering column. Only the headlights, turn signal, wiper, cruise control and horn wires are in there. Nothing to do with starting.

It could be an ignition switch issue (they are common). Here is a DIY that will help you: http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIYRev1.pdf

http://12v.org/urs/StarterConnections.jpg

Update
 

So I got all of the pieces (starter switch and instrument panel lights) ordered and they should be here by the end of the day. So the picture that you posted, is that where I should connect the battery charger? I guess I just need clarification as to where I need to connect the battery charger. As far as I'm aware, the battery is under the rear seats, is there a good tutorial on how to disconnect the battery so I can complete the repair per the tutorials' recommendation?

Sorry. The note on that photo related to an issue where somebody's door locks were both broken *AND* the battery was dead. The question was how to get into the car (the central locking pump worked but the battery was dead). So if you can't get into the car to access either the under-rear-seat battery OR the underhood battery (+) post, how do you charge the battery? Answer: Through the starter connection.

Normally, you would disconnect the battery under the seat. I typically disconnect the (+) cable from the (+) terminal on the battery and move the cable away from the battery. You will will want to have the radio code because the radio will go into SAFE mode after a few minutes of no power.

http://12v.org/urs/93UrS4UnderRearSeatArea.jpg

When charging the battery you can either connect to the battery terminals OR to the under hood (+) terminal and engine or another grounding point for the (-) charger cable.

Here is an example of connecting to the underhood (+) terminal:

http://12v.org/urs/ClippingTheBatter...osTerminal.jpg

Attachment 35418

So this is what I'm looking at. I loosened the nut but now how do I remove the cable? Do I just need to pull it hard to the side?

Disregard previous post. I figured it out. Now I'm going to replace the ignition switch.

Ok new question. I got to the point where I could flip the cluster to see the back and I documented where all the cables were connected and then started removing them but I can't seem to remove this white routing piece.

Attachment 35419

I don't want to break it. Does anyone know how to remove it properly? Thanks for the help.

Continuing on
 

Alright so I eventually got it all out. I ended up just cutting the top of that little plastic piece to remove the cables. I was planning on replacing the instrument cluster bulbs so I purchased some LED's from the linked site "Super Bright LED's" but there is no way to install them. They aren't compatible even though I used their compatibility form to confirm that they would. So I guess I won't replace those.

NAPA has normal OSRAM replacement bulbs. Try 2.0 watt if you want brighter. About 12 needed for all.