Well, so I didn't wake up this morning and say to myself "hmmm, I feel like gutting the M3" but....
11-30-2008, 05:21 AM
#51
You inspired me. A couple cups of coffee, and some hand tools. I'm down to 1,800 lbs!!!
<center><img src="http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/porsche-924-100_5-26.jpg"></center><p>AND I'M ONLY HALF DONE!
11-30-2008, 06:20 AM
#54
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Definitely doing a roll bar at first, full cage later
That's what prompted me to do all of this. I want the safety in the car. I also started out wanting better seats actually because stock, leather seats just weren't cutting it. Well, race seats, if they're done right, need 6-point harnesses. OK, fine. Well, 6-point harnesses, if they're done right, need to be tethered to a roll bar and not buckled in to the rear seatbelt buckles. OK, fine. A roll bar, if done right, needs to be welded in and go as far up to the edge of the roof as possible and welded to as much of the structural part of the car as possible. Well, that meant removing rear seat and headliner and carpet. As my dad always says, once you open one job, you open 10 others. And that's exactly what I've done here.
But ultimate goal was safety first, with less weight/quicker car as resulting benefits.
But ultimate goal was safety first, with less weight/quicker car as resulting benefits.
11-30-2008, 06:23 AM
#55
So true. I really do not want to do another track day with stock seats and belts.
But the upgrade path is steep. Seats + harnesses + roll bar = $2,000 easy. That's 1/3 of what I paid for the whole car!
11-30-2008, 08:33 AM
#59
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i've always used the heat gun method...
some of it comes it easily with a little heat, some takes a lot of heat and some scraping...
clean up all the residue with goof-off and shop rags...make sure your work area is very well ventilated...
clean up all the residue with goof-off and shop rags...make sure your work area is very well ventilated...