Jimmy Pribble

<center><img src="http://www.jimmypribble.com/images/eS2/camtimingmarks.jpg"></center><p>
I have an AAN with a 7A exhaust cam installed and the car has just recently started to run again after a couple of years. It runs fair, but there are a few issues that we are trying to sort out.

Eric Fluhr has always been suspicious of the cam installation and he thinks that we have it wrong. His suspicion stems from the fact that the timing marks do not line-up perfectly with the plane of the head. They are lined-up horizontally, but they are raised just a bit as you can see in the photo. Based on some tech that I got from the S-Car list (Ned Ritchie and a post from Keith Maddox come to mind), Ken Fluhr and I feel like it's set correctly.

So, what would a "tooth off" look like? What would the failure mode be? The car starts and runs pretty well (though I feel it's down on power) and there is no bangy-bangy of valves, so we can't be off by much.

I have no idea if this is related or not, but it's timing related, so I'll throw it out. My car is throwing a 2111 (RPM sensor open or short circuit, defective sensor &amp; cables, metal fragments on flywheel teeth.) If the sensor was bad the car shouldn't start. Any tips on what to look for here? Any common fixes associated with this code? Mockry's site didn't have much about it.

Thanks,

Jimmy

fusilier

<center><img src="http://www.bufkinengineering.com/cams2.JPG"></center><p>Have you verified that the RPM sensor and the Crank position sensor are both working correctly off the flywheel pin and teeth respectively?

Jimmy Pribble

If either of those don't work, the car won't start. However, I am throwing a 2111, so SOMETHING isn't quite right with the RPM sensor. We plan to inspect it next. We will make a visual inspection of the flywheel and check RPM sensor grounding and wiring.

fusilier

<img src="http://www.bufkinengineering.com/cams3.JPG">

<img src="http://www.bufkinengineering.com/cams4.jpg">

fusilier

you don't have them backwards do you?

Don@STaSIS

maybe two even and each cam needs to come in towards center one more tooth. Look at James's pics and note the cam lobe also, they are both pointing more inwards, laying more horizontal thank yours. Though I may be nuts!

Maybe you are getting that code because you do have the base cam/crank timing off? I would get those cams to line up better like James's and then give her a whirl.

That will surely make you run down on power as well. I found some damage to the damn crank on my motor which allowed for the base timing to be off and when I fixed that up it made a world of difference in power.

Cheers,

Jimmy Pribble

...that makes it look spot-on with how yours is done. You can tell the slight difference is from the angle the photos were taken from (your photo taken from steeper angle).

Jimmy

fusilier

I was drawing the line and it wasn't quite lining up. I can't see the exhaust side of the head so its hard to tell.

I did notice that the chain and its associated teeth are quite different on the exhaust side.

But, it could just be that with a slight counter clockwise rotation of both cams, they dots will align.

Don@STaSIS

noticed that when doing timing belts and other timing related parts nothing ever seems to line up 100% on the mark. On more than several motors I've lined up the flywheel at TDC and the vibration dampener mark/cover arrow don't line up 100%, nor does the cam pulley and head arrow line up 100%, sometimes it's off enough to make me try one tooth difference and then go back, just to be sure. The cam pulley on my AAN seems to sit slighly counter-clockwise in the arrow on the valve cover when the flywheel is at TDC, though if I jump the belt back one tooth and adjust the mark goes far beyond the arrow on the valve cover. I've noticed this on 10v's, 16v's, 8v's alike.

Cheers,

TurboEnvy52

wow dirty cams, not running synthetic?