Wash the car with Dawn, top first then sides then the rockers/low stuff last.
Dry the car off with Costco 100% cotton bath towels and clean all the door jams.
Then I clean the wheels with Jobmaster generic citrus cleaner from Cosctco and a small handheld Rubbermaid dustbroom and a washcloth getting all the way inside the wheel.
Then a diaper saturated with GROW 1705 wax remover go over the whole car and remove any deposits. *Please use protective gloves and ensure you have adequate ventilation when working with any solvent*
If the car has fallout on the top surfaces I will then go over it with straight toluene.
If there are still tar/tire marks on the sides and rockers I will use the toluene there as well until the body is totally clean.
Since this original post I would now insert the claybar step. I use Meguiars Quick Detailer and 3M Perfect It III Claybar.
Then I use 3/4" and 2 1/2" masking tape to tape off all body seams, rubber trim, the wiper trim and assembly and the front grill area and any high spots on the paint.
If the car has alot of fallout on it still I will hit it with a mixuture of Meguiars' #7 and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. If it's not bad I will just use #3.
Since the paint should be really clean now I never use a wool or fiber pad. For cutting I use the Meguiar's Finesse foam pad.
The buffer I use is a Black & Decker 6138 with electronic speed control. For cutting I use 1500rpm and for swirl removal I use 1000rpm.
DeWalt is now making this buffer.
After first stage buff is done remove all compound with bath towels.
Then I go around with the #9 swirl remover and a W9000 soft buff pad.
Then buff off that mess with your bath towels.
The next part is hard to explain but a great detailing secret use for #7 show car glaze.
What I do is get a nice thick terry wash cloth with plenty of texture and lay it on the hood. Then I take my #7 (the one without the cornstarch) and drizzle it onto the rag evenly.
Then fold it up in thirds and squeeze out the pure clear oil. You have to do this a couple times to get the rag wet enough. Then just go around working on small sections starting in small circles, then crossways and finishing lengthwise. Reapply #7 as needed. If you use good hand pressure this will really make a big difference in the final appearence of the car. This stuff does not dry so just leave it on unitl you are ready to Armour All or whatever.
As you go around with the hand rub take off the tape and thouroughly rub the bits under the tape.
At this point the car should look like hell, big oily mess. What better time to armour all. I go around with a shop rag saturated with water/armour all 50/50 and hit all the plastic rubber tires etc.
Now the car really looks bad. Now get your 4 clean bath towels cuz it's time to take it all off and finally see what a good job you did.
Once I get all the muck off I go around with a good carnauba or Meguiars #26 which I like alot. It is cheap, easy to apply/remove and does not discolor rubber.
Then buff that off and clean your windows and your done.
For a quick detail in the future just wash and repeat the #7 handrub then armourall and buff it clean. I do this about once a month sometimes waxing it as well.
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"You'd have people skippin church to watch this stuff . . . "
- Jeff Vader - boscoj 2001-06-10 11:20:21 (6951 views)
- boscoj 2001-06-19 21:41:34 (709 views)