While I was changing the Starter I noticed pad wear, Inner pads very low Outer pads thick, Calipers?
#1
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While I was changing the Starter I noticed pad wear, Inner pads very low Outer pads thick, Calipers?
I just did the brakes at end of summer. If I had to redo my brake system(stock now) What would be a moderate improvment without braking the bank?
#3
AudiWorld Senior Member
Maybe related..not trying to hijack but............
I have noticed the same thing on my G60 setup. Really want to go BBK but after being without work the last six months and just starting a new job the $$ is pretty tight.
Anyways, my pads do wear really unevenly and I cannot stop the brake "shimmy" in my car. I have had the rotors turned twice which elimantes the shimmy for about 2 weeks and then it returns. I am not late braking or trail braing into every turn either. Wondering if the rotors I picked up from a reputable ebayer are junk and that is my problem or is it that my brakes are "unbiased" or somthing and uneven pressures applied by the calipers is causing the rotor to warp?
Any ideas?
Anyways, my pads do wear really unevenly and I cannot stop the brake "shimmy" in my car. I have had the rotors turned twice which elimantes the shimmy for about 2 weeks and then it returns. I am not late braking or trail braing into every turn either. Wondering if the rotors I picked up from a reputable ebayer are junk and that is my problem or is it that my brakes are "unbiased" or somthing and uneven pressures applied by the calipers is causing the rotor to warp?
Any ideas?
#4
Re: Maybe related..not trying to hijack but............
Are the rotors Zimmerman, or a no-name brand? No-name brands are generally not made to the same specification iron, and will tend to warp quickly. Also, did you make sure the anchor slides were clean and the pads can move freely.
-David
-David
#6
you won't fix your shimmy problem with turned rotors
as you are finding out. When a warped rotor is turned, it won't be the same thickness all around, making it even easier to warp again. New rotors are the answer.
#7
Guide pins.
So that the caliper doesn't slide properly.
For the warping rotors of WVUrS6, I'm guessing crap rotors coupled with uneven heating. Once they warp, they're done. No amount of turning will make the metal the same.
Read StopTech's website on this issue.
To answer some of the questions that have been asked, and are going to be asked:
Upgrading pads, rotors and lines will improve braking some. Not much, but some. The reason people speak so highly of the BBK is that the difference in performance is night and day.
While not as great a bang-for-the-buck mod, it is, hands down, the best performance mod for these cars, IMHHEO(tm). Best bang/buck mod is HID kit. But night or day, big brakes deliver the goods.
Yeah, they're expensive. You could get all the gear together for under $1200 if you knew some folks with some connections. The installation is dead simple, and, at least for me, the braking was better *with green pads from the very first application*! As you can imagine, the braking got better with time, and the first time my wife got in the car after the time I had spent bedding in the pads, she yelled at me for not warning her about how different the brakes were.
This is from a woman who just doesn't notice this kind of stuff.
For the warping rotors of WVUrS6, I'm guessing crap rotors coupled with uneven heating. Once they warp, they're done. No amount of turning will make the metal the same.
Read StopTech's website on this issue.
To answer some of the questions that have been asked, and are going to be asked:
Upgrading pads, rotors and lines will improve braking some. Not much, but some. The reason people speak so highly of the BBK is that the difference in performance is night and day.
While not as great a bang-for-the-buck mod, it is, hands down, the best performance mod for these cars, IMHHEO(tm). Best bang/buck mod is HID kit. But night or day, big brakes deliver the goods.
Yeah, they're expensive. You could get all the gear together for under $1200 if you knew some folks with some connections. The installation is dead simple, and, at least for me, the braking was better *with green pads from the very first application*! As you can imagine, the braking got better with time, and the first time my wife got in the car after the time I had spent bedding in the pads, she yelled at me for not warning her about how different the brakes were.
This is from a woman who just doesn't notice this kind of stuff.
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#8
2nd on the guide pins
If the guide pins are not sliding freely the outer pad will not wear and the inner pad that has the piston pressing directly on it will do all the work and wear far quicker.
Pull off the caliper and clean up the guide pins. If they are worn and don't slide nicely in the caliper once clean, replace them. Also, replace the rubber seals on the pins and be sure to fully seat the seals to the pin and caliper to keep the lube grease in and the dirt and water out. Also, a good idea to replace the fasteners that attach the pins to the caliper bracket. You can get the seals and fasteners from just about any FLAP store. It helps to take the old parts with you to the auto parts store to make sure you get the right stuff.
Pull off the caliper and clean up the guide pins. If they are worn and don't slide nicely in the caliper once clean, replace them. Also, replace the rubber seals on the pins and be sure to fully seat the seals to the pin and caliper to keep the lube grease in and the dirt and water out. Also, a good idea to replace the fasteners that attach the pins to the caliper bracket. You can get the seals and fasteners from just about any FLAP store. It helps to take the old parts with you to the auto parts store to make sure you get the right stuff.
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