UR-Idiot Savant-S6

I had no idea that they were so far down there. Any tips on size of deep socket needed (looks like there isn't even enough width for a socket) and how many extensions you need? I want to make sure they're not backing out at all. TIA

AZSantorin

No special tool, I use a 12" ext and a deep socket... don't know the size tho

squidix9

12 inch or so extension.

It's a standard spark plug socket too.

Just wrap a piece of masking tape around the socket/extension to keep it from falling off though. Or if you have a locking socket use it.

tt16v

5/8ths, sorry i see sombody caught my mistake! a little snotty if you ask me. also a little anti seize wouldn't hurt anything as the aluminum is much softer and somtimes will want to stay with the spark plug(not good)and by the way there is no difference in spark plug choice some last longer than others but the dyno doesnt lie i have dynoed set after set after set found out doesnt make a lick of difference unless you replacing really worn out plugs with fresh ones

UrS4boy

tools. The spark plug socket is NOT the old standard (13/16ths - deep socket with a rubber insert to hold the plug), it is 5/8ths (NOT 5/16ths as suggested elsewhere), also deep with the rubber insert. This 5/8ths spark plug socket is the same as that for the 16V 4 cylinder VW's (the engine architecture is related to our 20V 5's) and some notable products such as the Ford 2.3 L 4 cylinder (YUK!). The socket is "deep" but all spark plug sockets are. They have to be to get over the porcelin part, etc. The trick is the rubber insert that holds the plug when you are inserting or extracting it (more on this below).

The extension does not need to be 12 inches unless you boys feel inadequate with 6 inches (extension). Its not the length of the (extension), its how you use it. Locking style is good. Taping (duct taping) the socket to the extension isn't a bad idea (as long as you don't add tape to the barrel of the socket, just the hex part at top (another characteristic of a proper spark plug socket)).

A typical problem with installing new plugs (F5DPOR's accept NO substitute) or just checking the torque on them (22 lb ft) (monthly?) is the socket can/will get stuck on the plug/wedged in the spark plug well (BTDT !!!). The first time I did tnat I nearly freaked out but was able to solve the problem with long needle nose pliers (grabbed the socket and yanked it up). I now squirt some WD40 into the socket (onto the rubber bit) so the rubber doesn't get stuck on the plug. This has worked well. (I haven't needed to do the duct tape thing).

One thing about checking torque (22 lb ft): Try to just tighten the plugs. Don't back them off and then retorque. The plugs (like all spark plugs in my experience) have a crush washer that is intended for a single use (which I know doesn't always happen). I don't think it's a good idea to re-crush this washer if you can help it. (Just my opinion). On this basis, I have never had a plug back out more than a quarter turn. Retorquing when the engine is warm not hot (as in "Ow! that freaking m*ther burned me" - hot) is better than when the engine is cold (the whole thing with the plugs working themselves out is based on heat cycling).

But then, this is only my opinion.

Dave F.

UR-Idiot Savant-S6

Thanks.....great information.