4SrU

The Brake pad indicator is lit up but the pads are not worn (has not reached the sensor part yet to brake open the cicuit. I even disconnected the plug and jumpered across the terminals incase the sensore wire was bad but still no change.

There must be a relay or tansistor that activates the pad indicator lamp that could be bad. Anyone know where to find this and how to check it and repair it.

Anyone experience this?
Any other suggestions to test?

cpayne

You actually have to remove the connector and splice above it. I figured it was just one more dummy light I didnt need plus it is SOOO easy to check and change your pads on the Big Reds that it doesnt make sense to have the sensor.

My light was coming on for months until I spliced it ABOVE the connector.

4SrU

I disconnected the connector and jumpered across the terminals. This has always worked on my BMWs. I don't understand why you would need to remove the connector and splice above it. There is nothing between the wire and connector to make any difference unless the wire to the connector does not make contact (break in wire) but I tested this and the wire tot he connector is fine unless there is some break some where further back in the wire.

This circuit connection or lack of it (when the pads wear and break the connection) must activate a relay or transistor. I think this is the point of failure on my car but I don't have info on this circuit and where to test for this.

Thanks anyway.

jjm's quattro

worked on my 95.5 s6 avant this winter... Not sure about a relay... I'd start by jumping both sides and then follow the wires up to the source. A common failure point is where they come into the wheel well.
-jjm

4SrU

That's why I'm asking about the circuit that this wire activates when is breaks open.

cpayne

All I am saying is that this has been the experiance of not only me but also many others on the S-Cars mailing list. If you find a way to work w/o cutting off the connector..pls post. Regardless as I said in my previous post it is one less monitor I need.

Good luck

cp

4SrU

I appreciate your response, and I agree with you the yes if you cut off the connector and connect the wires you elimiate any chance that the wire connection to the connector terminals could be bad.

BUT as I had originally posted I have check the connector wiring and found the wire all the way back into the engine compartment to be good and conductive all the way thru the connector and sensor in the brake pad. So the problem with my car lie further up in the circuit. That is why I asked if anyone is familiar with this circuit further up where it actually activates whatever it is that turns THAT IDIOT LIGHT on!

Again I don't mean to offend anyone but please don't keep posting the same solution when I have checked and double check that solution and I'm asking for a solution to a different part of this failure.

So I will ask again is anyone familiar with the rest of this circuit primarily the part where these wires come in contact with the smarter part of this circuit (i.e. relay, circuit board, cpu...) Not just the open short of this wire near the pad or connector.

cpayne

Perhaps someone there can give you some better insight as your problem is unique.

However..I NEVER got the Pad indicator light before I changed my pads out and calipers and rotors. So with me splicing the wire BELOW the connector it was sporatic....why? I have NO idea as it seems to be pretty simple on/off. So their must be something going on in that connector that is a bit of VooDoo (at least to me)

4SrU

Most likely the wire connection in your connector was corroded. I have seen this many times with various cars. The wire that connects to the terminal pins (which is usually crimped) in the connector becomes corroded and thus creates the open circuit to turn on the light. If this was the case and you jumpered on the connector or after the connector you still have this open circuit. So in your case as in many you must cut out the connector (as this is the weak link and jumper the main wires together.