UrS4boy

Here is my previous post on coil options (check out all the hyperlinks)

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...&highlight=LS2

Since then, Marc S. at EFI Express has fully developed the LS2 option as a $425 plug and play kit. He and Apikol also both offer 1.8t/2.0t coil pack kits for around $350.

One of the key things in these kits was finding the correct four pin male connector that plugs into the ECU to POS harness female pin connector. One example of this is a Volvo connector, unless you can find it as a AMP four pin Junior timer connector, perhaps through EFI Express. Otherwise, here is the Volvo ordering info:



To do the wiring as a DIY, you could use this updated 1.8T coil pack diagram as a guide to get the wire colours and positions, and this LS2 coil diagram to convert the 1.8t diagram to LS2 coils (very similar):

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

thank you Dave :-)

Joe100S

Dave,

Quite useful, but I'm curious what happens when you get up into the 26 lbs of boost range with higher HP engines. I've had a weak spark on #1 and suspect a coil but am waiting to test the POS's to eliminate that as it's pretty easy to swap a pair in for a quick test.

With the HP going up and up I'm wondering when the stock AAN ignition system will start to show weakness.

J

UrS4boy

If you think you have a weak coil at either stock or Stage 1 (or 1+) levels of boost, I will guarantee that at 26 psi (typical of RS2+ levels), you will have a massive misfire since the coil will not be able to get the spare to jump under that pressure.

Here is a device map that you can follow. Click on the word labels and then follow the hyperlinks inside, i.e. click on the N122 and N127 POSs and then read down until you find the link to the updated POS diagnostic post and its diagnostics table. Click on the Coil label and the read down until you find the missing and hesitation diagnostic and then see how you can test the coils for strength.

http://members.shaw.ca/speedtek/UrS%...ice%20Map.html

Joe100S

Yeah, I've tested the entire circuit and Cyl 1 is weak, but I have not isolated the cause to be the POS or the coil. I will do that Friday when I get a chance, but there is absolutely a misfire on throttle. It's gotten worse the past 10 days and the only thing preventing me from fixing it has really been spare time. Kids will do that to ya.

Cheers Dave. Merry Xmas.

J

Joe100S

Turned out to be weak coils, both 1 and 5. Alex at IA and I tested them all and found 5 almost as weak as 1 and swapped them both out. Looks like 5 got a tad wet and fried. Smooth as silk at full boost and WOT now.

This should serve as a warning to others to do their best to keep the coils dry. Had 5 not gotten a bit damp it probably would have been fine. Luckily the POS's were both in good shape.

Car is running better than new now.

J

UrS4boy

Im my experience, the only way to get a OE AAN coil wet with water is if the "20V Turbo" plate is not tightened down and/or the plate "O" ring Item 33 in the diagram below) is in bad shape. And even then you have to direct a hose onto the cam cover.

Joe100S

Yeah a little water had gotten in at some point as the hole in the back of the cover leaves a little room for water intrusion if you're not careful. Apparently I wasn't once.

I may put some silicone tape around the coil wires where they come through the cover to 'gasket' them at some point.