Cialowicz custom air intake system pictures...
#1
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Cialowicz custom air intake system pictures...
If you decide to do this, the whole mod will cost you about $110.
You'll need:
-<A HREF="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AVC%2D07034&view=2047&media=2& applid=%7B338F2BB1%2DC864%2D4070%2D970C%2D51DC765C 19F3%7D">Akimoto <B>AVC-07043</B> air filter on Summit Racing</A> (3" wide opening, 6" wide base, 6" long, anodized red color). They come in other colors, but the rest suck... and 6" long is about the biggest you can go. The end will slightly touch the fuel filter; any bigger and it wouldn't fit. These are nice becuase they have built in velocity stacks, and are very rigid in design. Since it has a velocity stack, you can remove the mesh before and after your MAF if you'd like... the car will not throw codes because the velocity stack will smooth out the airflow. $70.
-A regular 3" exhaust clamp... the "U" kind with two nuts and a connector to bridge the "U" and create the rest of the interior circle. About $5.
-A roll of sheet metal or aluminum. $10.
-A roll of fiberglass pink insulation. $4.
-A roll of aluminum tape. $10.
-Some bendy bracket mounts and various bolts. $5.
-A bunch of high quality 1" diameter rubber hose. $5.
This is what you'll end up with:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0006.2.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0007.2.jpg">
You can see the thickness of the design below. You'll want to cut two pieces of sheet metal to fit vertially between the turbo and the air filter. One of mine, the one closer to the turbo, rises up higher than the other so that I could put a rubber hose on the end to make a good seal with the hood.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0008.1.jpg">
What I did was once I cut the sheet metal to the correct size and test fitted it, I put lengths of hose all around the edges (except the top... that comes later). The hose got sandwiched between the two pieces of metal. I then screwed the hose in through the sheet metal on both sides, using sheet metal screws. I then sealed the hose off with aluminum tape. This made it look pretty and reflected some heat. I hope the tape will last long in the heat, and not peel off.
You can see one of the screws in the picture below... near the top of the shield.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0014.1.jpg">
Once again in the same place on the other side (repeat picture)...
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0008.1.jpg">
So now you have an open space between the two pieces of metal, and a 1" separation... perfect. Just slide some insulation in, and fit the hose in on the top the same way; screw it in on both sides and tape it off.
Your air filter will be mounted using the 3" exhaust clamp, and the mounting bendy brackets. This is how the setup works:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0012.jpg">
It's fairly simple, and uses the same top mounting screw as your old poopy air box. Also note how another bendy bracket thing goes to the same mount and holds the actual shield secure.
In the picture above, note that there is no gaping hole below for the air filter to see the pavement. I am far too concerned about water lock and air flow to let this happen. ;-)
So, cut some sheet metal to cover the hole below. You'll have to finagle it to fit correctly. I use the stock air hose for the airbox to help add more flow to the setup. You can see it in the picture below.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0013.jpg">
See how I recessed part of the sheet metal to help divert airflow up? This really helps to get cool air into that space once you're moving. I created a triangle piece and taped it so there was no gap around where the metal bent down.
The metal is mounted to various part of the car using custom drilled holes. It sits nice and securely.
The whole setup from the top:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0015.jpg">
It may not be as pretty as the Dahlback intake, but it costs 1/3 of the price (saves you $200) and is just as good. The car makes very snazzy noises. The air it sucks in is very cool (it gets really hot near the turbo, but when I put my hand on the other side it's just as cool as the air outside). It also helps the car breathe a wee bit better, which is the whole point of the system.
I severely cut my finger while doing this... but other than that everything went smoothly. It's a very easy mod to do. My only concerns are about the aluminum tape and fiberglass holding up to the heat... I think it'll be fine.
I highly recommend doing this.
Cheers,
Mike.
You'll need:
-<A HREF="http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AVC%2D07034&view=2047&media=2& applid=%7B338F2BB1%2DC864%2D4070%2D970C%2D51DC765C 19F3%7D">Akimoto <B>AVC-07043</B> air filter on Summit Racing</A> (3" wide opening, 6" wide base, 6" long, anodized red color). They come in other colors, but the rest suck... and 6" long is about the biggest you can go. The end will slightly touch the fuel filter; any bigger and it wouldn't fit. These are nice becuase they have built in velocity stacks, and are very rigid in design. Since it has a velocity stack, you can remove the mesh before and after your MAF if you'd like... the car will not throw codes because the velocity stack will smooth out the airflow. $70.
-A regular 3" exhaust clamp... the "U" kind with two nuts and a connector to bridge the "U" and create the rest of the interior circle. About $5.
-A roll of sheet metal or aluminum. $10.
-A roll of fiberglass pink insulation. $4.
-A roll of aluminum tape. $10.
-Some bendy bracket mounts and various bolts. $5.
-A bunch of high quality 1" diameter rubber hose. $5.
This is what you'll end up with:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0006.2.jpg">
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0007.2.jpg">
You can see the thickness of the design below. You'll want to cut two pieces of sheet metal to fit vertially between the turbo and the air filter. One of mine, the one closer to the turbo, rises up higher than the other so that I could put a rubber hose on the end to make a good seal with the hood.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0008.1.jpg">
What I did was once I cut the sheet metal to the correct size and test fitted it, I put lengths of hose all around the edges (except the top... that comes later). The hose got sandwiched between the two pieces of metal. I then screwed the hose in through the sheet metal on both sides, using sheet metal screws. I then sealed the hose off with aluminum tape. This made it look pretty and reflected some heat. I hope the tape will last long in the heat, and not peel off.
You can see one of the screws in the picture below... near the top of the shield.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0014.1.jpg">
Once again in the same place on the other side (repeat picture)...
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0008.1.jpg">
So now you have an open space between the two pieces of metal, and a 1" separation... perfect. Just slide some insulation in, and fit the hose in on the top the same way; screw it in on both sides and tape it off.
Your air filter will be mounted using the 3" exhaust clamp, and the mounting bendy brackets. This is how the setup works:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0012.jpg">
It's fairly simple, and uses the same top mounting screw as your old poopy air box. Also note how another bendy bracket thing goes to the same mount and holds the actual shield secure.
In the picture above, note that there is no gaping hole below for the air filter to see the pavement. I am far too concerned about water lock and air flow to let this happen. ;-)
So, cut some sheet metal to cover the hole below. You'll have to finagle it to fit correctly. I use the stock air hose for the airbox to help add more flow to the setup. You can see it in the picture below.
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0013.jpg">
See how I recessed part of the sheet metal to help divert airflow up? This really helps to get cool air into that space once you're moving. I created a triangle piece and taped it so there was no gap around where the metal bent down.
The metal is mounted to various part of the car using custom drilled holes. It sits nice and securely.
The whole setup from the top:
<IMG SRC="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24762/dscf0015.jpg">
It may not be as pretty as the Dahlback intake, but it costs 1/3 of the price (saves you $200) and is just as good. The car makes very snazzy noises. The air it sucks in is very cool (it gets really hot near the turbo, but when I put my hand on the other side it's just as cool as the air outside). It also helps the car breathe a wee bit better, which is the whole point of the system.
I severely cut my finger while doing this... but other than that everything went smoothly. It's a very easy mod to do. My only concerns are about the aluminum tape and fiberglass holding up to the heat... I think it'll be fine.
I highly recommend doing this.
Cheers,
Mike.
#2
Interesting article about modifying the intake...
So what are the pro's and con's of a pod filter versus doing what this article proposes? (I think this article is similar to what Hap has)<ul><li><a href="http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0629/article.html">http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0629/article.html</a</li></ul>
#3
The Negative Boost Article
That was the genesis of my RAIS. Its one of the best articles ever written about our cars and a source of debate ever since.
Hap, No stinkin Negative boost in Evagboost
Hap, No stinkin Negative boost in Evagboost
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#8
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The stock airbox intake hose.
"See how I recessed part of the sheet metal to help divert airflow up? This really helps to get cool air into that space once you're moving. I created a triangle piece and taped it so there was no gap around where the metal bent down."