Anti-freeze mxing question:Got orange in the system now. Ok to drain and go pink without a flush?
02-24-2007, 06:38 AM
#3
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Hijack: What can I use to top of my blue coolant?
I am doing a t-stat next week but am a little low on coolant...about a quart or less. Is there something I can mix with the blue until I can get to the dealer? Can blue be bought at FLAPS?
02-24-2007, 06:52 AM
#4
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I would'nt mix any of those goofy coolants, some can gel.
I miss the good old days when there was only green, it would probably work fine in everything too if it was flushed annually or semi annually.
02-24-2007, 07:31 AM
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Blue coolant is put in most V-dubs and can be mixed with...
with most if not all other non-OAT (Non Organic Acid Technology) coolants. Audi's pink coolant is an OAT coolant which SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) says can be mixed up to 15% with non-OAT coolants, but passed that, the coolant will start losing its rust inhibiting properties. There have also been posts here on AW that said mixing Audi's pink (OAT) coolant with conventional American green coolants will cause them to solidify, though my Google abilities couldn't find any more info on that note. Maybe one of the mechanics on the board could verify this info before you take it as fact?
Keep in mind also that Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) coolants are to be changed every 30,000 miles whereas OAT coolants can last up to 150,000 miles or 5 years. IAT coolants are also much cheaper than OAT coolants, which offset the difference.
<i>Conventional American coolant (green or gold) contains silicates (a long-used aluminum corrosion inhibitor) and other inhibitors. Silicates work quickly to protect aluminum, but also are depleted relatively quickly in service. They're also somewhat abrasive (being based on silicon-sand), so they've been implicated in water pump seal wear. Advocates say tests show silicates last longer than was commonly believed. And with the latest seal materials, they actually do a better job of protecting the water pump, because they both resist cavitation erosion-corrosion and "repair" any that occurs.
OAT coolant (orange or pink) contains no silicates and no phosphates. It's a blend of two or more organic acids, a specific class of inhibitors with slowacting, long-life properties. Texaco's Havoline Dex-Cool (also sold under the Goodwrench label by GM) was the first example. Prestone and Peak also have introduced OAT coolants that are chemically compatible with Dex-Cool.
Conventional Japanese coolant (green or red) contains no silicates, but has a heavy dose of phosphates and other inhibitors, including a modest amount of one or two organic acids.
Conventional European coolant (blue or yellow) contains a low dose of silicates and no phosphates, but does include other inhibitors, including one organic acid.
Hybrid European coolant (blue or green) is similar to conventional European, but with a much greater dose of organic acids. It's a balanced formula designed to have the silicates provide the primary protection for the aluminum, then allow the organic acids to provide long-term protection.
Hybrid American coolant (green or orange) contains a moderate dose of silicates, plus a blend of organic acids. </i>
Keep in mind also that Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) coolants are to be changed every 30,000 miles whereas OAT coolants can last up to 150,000 miles or 5 years. IAT coolants are also much cheaper than OAT coolants, which offset the difference.
<i>Conventional American coolant (green or gold) contains silicates (a long-used aluminum corrosion inhibitor) and other inhibitors. Silicates work quickly to protect aluminum, but also are depleted relatively quickly in service. They're also somewhat abrasive (being based on silicon-sand), so they've been implicated in water pump seal wear. Advocates say tests show silicates last longer than was commonly believed. And with the latest seal materials, they actually do a better job of protecting the water pump, because they both resist cavitation erosion-corrosion and "repair" any that occurs.
OAT coolant (orange or pink) contains no silicates and no phosphates. It's a blend of two or more organic acids, a specific class of inhibitors with slowacting, long-life properties. Texaco's Havoline Dex-Cool (also sold under the Goodwrench label by GM) was the first example. Prestone and Peak also have introduced OAT coolants that are chemically compatible with Dex-Cool.
Conventional Japanese coolant (green or red) contains no silicates, but has a heavy dose of phosphates and other inhibitors, including a modest amount of one or two organic acids.
Conventional European coolant (blue or yellow) contains a low dose of silicates and no phosphates, but does include other inhibitors, including one organic acid.
Hybrid European coolant (blue or green) is similar to conventional European, but with a much greater dose of organic acids. It's a balanced formula designed to have the silicates provide the primary protection for the aluminum, then allow the organic acids to provide long-term protection.
Hybrid American coolant (green or orange) contains a moderate dose of silicates, plus a blend of organic acids. </i>
02-24-2007, 03:18 PM
#7
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EXACTLY why I still run the green stuff...
I can't see any real benefit to going with the pink, orange, blue, (insert color here).
Green works just as good IMHO, and I can pick it up at the local auto parts store. Been running Sierra (anti-phosphate) in everything I drive, for years. Never had a problem with it.
Green works just as good IMHO, and I can pick it up at the local auto parts store. Been running Sierra (anti-phosphate) in everything I drive, for years. Never had a problem with it.