Stuck in neutral
05-28-2013, 08:05 PM
#1
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Stuck in neutral
I searched the forums and couldn't find any info on my problem.I was backing up in my driveway and when I went to put the car in drive, it wouldn't go past neutral. Foot on the brake, but won't move out of neutral. I turned the car off and restarted and it didn't change anything. Has anyone had a similar issue with their tip? It's an 03 with about 160k miles and a brand new torque converter.
05-29-2013, 01:57 AM
#2
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I searched the forums and couldn't find any info on my problem.I was backing up in my driveway and when I went to put the car in drive, it wouldn't go past neutral. Foot on the brake, but won't move out of neutral. I turned the car off and restarted and it didn't change anything. Has anyone had a similar issue with their tip? It's an 03 with about 160k miles and a brand new torque converter.
05-29-2013, 05:41 AM
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UPDATE: I was able to get it into and out of gear. I had to hold my foot on the brake, turn the key to a certain position (just before the on position) and then I could move the shift lever. I was able to find that perfect sweet spot where I could still start the car with the shift lever just in between neutral and drive.
Next, I can feel and hear a switch engage under the shift lever that is trying to do its job, but I'm not sure that is the problem.
The little foot/brake light next to the shift lever does not come on when I press on the brake.
Also, I have no adjustable suspension. The control buttons on the dash don't even light up and I the suspension warning light on the instrument cluster has been on for several months and now that has gone away. I'm also getting an oil sensor warning symbol on my instrument cluster readout.
Are these all separate gremlins that I am chasing or is there a common denominator?
Next, I can feel and hear a switch engage under the shift lever that is trying to do its job, but I'm not sure that is the problem.
The little foot/brake light next to the shift lever does not come on when I press on the brake.
Also, I have no adjustable suspension. The control buttons on the dash don't even light up and I the suspension warning light on the instrument cluster has been on for several months and now that has gone away. I'm also getting an oil sensor warning symbol on my instrument cluster readout.
Are these all separate gremlins that I am chasing or is there a common denominator?
05-29-2013, 06:02 AM
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Did your suspension compressor make a lot of noise?
If you have no green lights by the up/down buttons, you've probably blown the suspension control module.
The warning in the instrument cluster may have disappeared because of a failed fuse. Check Fuse #5, a 10-amp fuse that's the most-left in the second row from the top in the panel at the end of the dash on the driver side:
<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/150484424.jpg">
If that's OK, check the big 40-amp fuse and adjacent relay in the last row (closest to the floor mat) under the knee bolster below the steering wheel, called the 8-fold panel. It's a real PITA to get to, requiring a bunch of disassembly. See the description in the Bentley. If the relay and fuse are OK, you'll need a new suspension control module.
If you have no green lights by the up/down buttons, you've probably blown the suspension control module.
The warning in the instrument cluster may have disappeared because of a failed fuse. Check Fuse #5, a 10-amp fuse that's the most-left in the second row from the top in the panel at the end of the dash on the driver side:
<img src="http://www.pbase.com/kneale_brownson/image/150484424.jpg">
If that's OK, check the big 40-amp fuse and adjacent relay in the last row (closest to the floor mat) under the knee bolster below the steering wheel, called the 8-fold panel. It's a real PITA to get to, requiring a bunch of disassembly. See the description in the Bentley. If the relay and fuse are OK, you'll need a new suspension control module.
Last edited by Kneale Brownson; 05-29-2013 at 06:06 AM.
05-29-2013, 06:09 AM
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I checked all the fuses in the panel, but not the big 40 amp one you are referring to. The little green lights do not light up and the car is currently "riding dirty" as in slammed to the ground below level one. It's a very uncomfortable ride when it's slammed like that, but it looks great.
Do you know if there is a write up or video on how to get to that 40 amp fuse?
EDIT: The compressor did make a lot of noise and I knew it was time for a rebuild.
Also, would this have anything to do with why the shift lever won't work?
Do you know if there is a write up or video on how to get to that 40 amp fuse?
EDIT: The compressor did make a lot of noise and I knew it was time for a rebuild.
Also, would this have anything to do with why the shift lever won't work?
Last edited by dotrenrew; 05-29-2013 at 06:11 AM.
05-29-2013, 07:53 AM
#6
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I checked all the fuses in the panel, but not the big 40 amp one you are referring to. The little green lights do not light up and the car is currently "riding dirty" as in slammed to the ground below level one. It's a very uncomfortable ride when it's slammed like that, but it looks great.
Do you know if there is a write up or video on how to get to that 40 amp fuse?
EDIT: The compressor did make a lot of noise and I knew it was time for a rebuild.
Also, would this have anything to do with why the shift lever won't work?
Do you know if there is a write up or video on how to get to that 40 amp fuse?
EDIT: The compressor did make a lot of noise and I knew it was time for a rebuild.
Also, would this have anything to do with why the shift lever won't work?
Checking the 40 amp involves removing the trim above the wheel (pull up and out) then remove four screws.
Link to a picture of the module:
IMAG0487 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
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05-29-2013, 08:13 AM
#8
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Link to control module replacement
I don't know what the testing procedure would be.
05-29-2013, 08:25 AM
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I just got a call from Audi of America. They are going to pay for half of a complete diagnostic for my car at my local dealership. For $50, they will tell me exactly what the problems are and from that point, I can either fix them myself or I can take my car to my local indie. Either way, in the end I'll be paying thru the *** to fix the problems. Story of my life with this car. I will be selling this car. I'm sick of putting money into it. I know it's 11 years old, but I could have almost bought a brand new car for as much money as I have put into this car.
05-29-2013, 08:43 AM
#10
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That sums up my AR ownership experience to date.
I just got a call from Audi of America. They are going to pay for half of a complete diagnostic for my car at my local dealership. For $50, they will tell me exactly what the problems are and from that point, I can either fix them myself or I can take my car to my local indie. Either way, in the end I'll be paying thru the *** to fix the problems. Story of my life with this car. I will be selling this car. I'm sick of putting money into it. I know it's 11 years old, but I could have almost bought a brand new car for as much money as I have put into this car.