Rear suspention down.
#1
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Rear suspention down.
Had various minor suspention problems over the past couple of months but nothing serious and mostly these problems seem to sort themselves out or are just occassionally intermitent.
Now though I have a serious problem (I think) Every time I start-up I get the amber 'car' warning symbol light up permentantly on dash. The rear shockers are right down on end stops (front seems to be still on L2)and the green level 1 LED flashes. Cannot operate L2,3,4 keys to raise levels as I think these are disabled by the amber 'car' light.
Tried useing the Ross-Tech VCDS to login to the level Advanced Functions to check/adjust useing the 31564 login but keep getting "login lost due to dropped session" before I get the stored readings.
The only fault showing in the fault log is '1397-Venting solinoid level control (N111) open or short'. Not convinced yet that this is problem.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Now though I have a serious problem (I think) Every time I start-up I get the amber 'car' warning symbol light up permentantly on dash. The rear shockers are right down on end stops (front seems to be still on L2)and the green level 1 LED flashes. Cannot operate L2,3,4 keys to raise levels as I think these are disabled by the amber 'car' light.
Tried useing the Ross-Tech VCDS to login to the level Advanced Functions to check/adjust useing the 31564 login but keep getting "login lost due to dropped session" before I get the stored readings.
The only fault showing in the fault log is '1397-Venting solinoid level control (N111) open or short'. Not convinced yet that this is problem.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
#2
That code can refer to an electrical connection at the pump that is loose or disconnected. I would start there. Also, rub them bags down with some soapy water if you can get any sort of pressure into them and look for a leak. You almost definately have a leak as well.
#3
The N111 solenoid valve is responsible for de-pressurizing the system. For example when a request is made to lower the car. The valve is closed with no power applied and open when power is applied (spring and electromagnetism in action here).
When you lower the car, the valve is energized and thus open to bleed some air from the system through a pneumatic discharge valve. If the N111 is stuck open, all the air will be purge from the system from the valve body to the compressor side. The other 4 valves (one at each wheel) would also have to be open to cause the suspension to go down.
In conclusion, the front axle valves, N148 (FL) and N149 (FR) may be closed while the rear ones N150 (RL) and N151 (RR), ...along with the N111 may be leaking (not closed properly) or the rear air bags leaking. If the N111 is leaking the front will eventually go down when the demand called for them to be opened.
The N111 is integrated with the compressor. Even thou its removable, its more effective to simply change the compressor. Cost about $339.00 US (Arnott though Amazon)
When you lower the car, the valve is energized and thus open to bleed some air from the system through a pneumatic discharge valve. If the N111 is stuck open, all the air will be purge from the system from the valve body to the compressor side. The other 4 valves (one at each wheel) would also have to be open to cause the suspension to go down.
In conclusion, the front axle valves, N148 (FL) and N149 (FR) may be closed while the rear ones N150 (RL) and N151 (RR), ...along with the N111 may be leaking (not closed properly) or the rear air bags leaking. If the N111 is leaking the front will eventually go down when the demand called for them to be opened.
The N111 is integrated with the compressor. Even thou its removable, its more effective to simply change the compressor. Cost about $339.00 US (Arnott though Amazon)
#4
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Thanks for replies.
Have driven the AR carefully around abit today cus its the only vehicle I have on the road at the moment. The front has stayed at usual height around 402mm. Rear left ended up at about 390mm (fairly normal) but rear right is down to stops. Green (low) LED continued to flash and amber 'car' symbol stayed on from start-up.
So this is the way I see it at the moment:
1. Would have thought that if N111 was stuck then front is unlikely to stay at correct height for prolonged period.
2. I dont think there is a leak in rear right bag as compressor would run to try to raise it. (will try soapy water later if need be) The bag has some pressure in it but it is not as hard as left side.
3. Heck of a coincidence if faulty N111 and leaky bag at same time.
Find it strange that only one fault code shows up ie.1397 (N111)
Think I will change compressor and maybe valve block as well then move on to possible bag leak.
Any further thoughts, suggestions please.
.
Have driven the AR carefully around abit today cus its the only vehicle I have on the road at the moment. The front has stayed at usual height around 402mm. Rear left ended up at about 390mm (fairly normal) but rear right is down to stops. Green (low) LED continued to flash and amber 'car' symbol stayed on from start-up.
So this is the way I see it at the moment:
1. Would have thought that if N111 was stuck then front is unlikely to stay at correct height for prolonged period.
2. I dont think there is a leak in rear right bag as compressor would run to try to raise it. (will try soapy water later if need be) The bag has some pressure in it but it is not as hard as left side.
3. Heck of a coincidence if faulty N111 and leaky bag at same time.
Find it strange that only one fault code shows up ie.1397 (N111)
Think I will change compressor and maybe valve block as well then move on to possible bag leak.
Any further thoughts, suggestions please.
.
#6
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#7
Cheaper
http://forums.quattroworld.com/allro...ads/4495.phtml
With the discount code and the Mercedes pump you can get out of this for under 300.00.
No idea on getting that valve block for cheaper other than to shop around.
GenuineAudiparts dot com
Was the cheapest place I saw I think but still 400+ bucks.
Oh, and if you do need those rear air springs I have a pair from a friend who switched to coil overs and then had to go to California. I'd let them go for a fair price. williamcfoster at hotmail dot com if you are interested.
With the discount code and the Mercedes pump you can get out of this for under 300.00.
No idea on getting that valve block for cheaper other than to shop around.
GenuineAudiparts dot com
Was the cheapest place I saw I think but still 400+ bucks.
Oh, and if you do need those rear air springs I have a pair from a friend who switched to coil overs and then had to go to California. I'd let them go for a fair price. williamcfoster at hotmail dot com if you are interested.
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#8
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Many thanks for that.
Have now got a new compressor on the way from Germany. Valve block will have to be a second hand one for now.
Hoping my rear bags are OK but thinking of buying new ones if I have to replace them.
Now looking for articles about compressor removal/fitting. Have got the one from Arnott.
Thanks for showing interest and links.
Have now got a new compressor on the way from Germany. Valve block will have to be a second hand one for now.
Hoping my rear bags are OK but thinking of buying new ones if I have to replace them.
Now looking for articles about compressor removal/fitting. Have got the one from Arnott.
Thanks for showing interest and links.
#9
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Suspension compressor change instructions?
Have to change my suspension compressor and valve block soon on my 2000 Allroad, so I am looking for articles, how to, instructions, advice on the best method.
I have the one from Arnott's site, thank but want to get as much info as poss.
Thanks in advance.
Paul.
I have the one from Arnott's site, thank but want to get as much info as poss.
Thanks in advance.
Paul.
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