Oil Change, how easy is it to DIY?
03-01-2012, 03:13 PM
#1
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Oil Change, how easy is it to DIY?
I usually have a local shop change the oil for $10 if I bring in the oil and filter. For this newly acquired Audi Allroad, he doesn't want to do it claiming that it's easy to screw up the Air Suspension system and it's not worth 10 bucks to do it. He said to bring it to a dealer. I want to do this myself. Is it just removing the bolt underneath the car at the oil pan to drain and re-install the bolt, and twist and turn the filter to remove it and replace with new filter? I used to be able to do this with the older Audi's, but not sure about this one. I haven't take a looked underneath. Just wondering. Thanks.
03-01-2012, 03:48 PM
#2
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You can put the car into jack mode (hold both up and down buttons for more than 4 seconds)
Then you have to crawl underneath and remove the two body pans (if they are still present).
After that, its just a like a regular car, draining, replacing the filter (which is right there) and refill with 6.5 litres of VW502 compatible oil.
Then you have to crawl underneath and remove the two body pans (if they are still present).
After that, its just a like a regular car, draining, replacing the filter (which is right there) and refill with 6.5 litres of VW502 compatible oil.
03-01-2012, 06:41 PM
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I put the car in lever 3 or 4, Drive the front up on ramps (mine are about 10" high)
You will need some metric Allen keys 10mm socket Screw driver and I find a quarter works well for the twist lock screws in the front wheel well (2 each side) The only oddball thing is a splined male socket for the two bolts at the front (They are not Allen or Torx bolts) then take out the large panel from under the engine ( I leave the one under the trans in place)
Drain oil, Change filter New drain plug, New oil run & check for leaks Reinstall panel, That it job done
The first time is a bit on a pain in the neck with the panel But after that its a walk in the park
You will need some metric Allen keys 10mm socket Screw driver and I find a quarter works well for the twist lock screws in the front wheel well (2 each side) The only oddball thing is a splined male socket for the two bolts at the front (They are not Allen or Torx bolts) then take out the large panel from under the engine ( I leave the one under the trans in place)
Drain oil, Change filter New drain plug, New oil run & check for leaks Reinstall panel, That it job done
The first time is a bit on a pain in the neck with the panel But after that its a walk in the park
03-01-2012, 09:47 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
You can put the car into jack mode (hold both up and down buttons for more than 4 seconds)
Then you have to crawl underneath and remove the two body pans (if they are still present).
After that, its just a like a regular car, draining, replacing the filter (which is right there) and refill with 6.5 litres of VW502 compatible oil.
Then you have to crawl underneath and remove the two body pans (if they are still present).
After that, its just a like a regular car, draining, replacing the filter (which is right there) and refill with 6.5 litres of VW502 compatible oil.
03-01-2012, 09:48 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
I put the car in lever 3 or 4, Drive the front up on ramps (mine are about 10" high)
You will need some metric Allen keys 10mm socket Screw driver and I find a quarter works well for the twist lock screws in the front wheel well (2 each side) The only oddball thing is a splined male socket for the two bolts at the front (They are not Allen or Torx bolts) then take out the large panel from under the engine ( I leave the one under the trans in place)
Drain oil, Change filter New drain plug, New oil run & check for leaks Reinstall panel, That it job done
The first time is a bit on a pain in the neck with the panel But after that its a walk in the park
You will need some metric Allen keys 10mm socket Screw driver and I find a quarter works well for the twist lock screws in the front wheel well (2 each side) The only oddball thing is a splined male socket for the two bolts at the front (They are not Allen or Torx bolts) then take out the large panel from under the engine ( I leave the one under the trans in place)
Drain oil, Change filter New drain plug, New oil run & check for leaks Reinstall panel, That it job done
The first time is a bit on a pain in the neck with the panel But after that its a walk in the park
03-02-2012, 01:54 AM
#7
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That small of a angle wont make any difference at all
And to get out of jack mode (if you go that way) just hold the buttons again for a few seconds,
I don't use "jack mode" when on the ramps
And to get out of jack mode (if you go that way) just hold the buttons again for a few seconds,
I don't use "jack mode" when on the ramps
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03-02-2012, 02:34 AM
#8
No need for ramps with the AR. Just put it in L4 and there is plenty of room. Drain plug is toward the front of the pan, so the rear slant means that all the old oil won't drain out and you'll leave about 1/2 qt in there. No need for new drain plug, but the crush washer should be replaced.
Only fiddely part of the whole job is getting the belly pan back in position to reinstall. BTW: There are two different length belly pan twist pins. Black and silver. The 3 black ones go through the engine and tranny belly pan where they meet. Silver are for single layer of belly pan everywhere else. There is also 4 plastic ones in the the fender wells. 2 on each side.
Only fiddely part of the whole job is getting the belly pan back in position to reinstall. BTW: There are two different length belly pan twist pins. Black and silver. The 3 black ones go through the engine and tranny belly pan where they meet. Silver are for single layer of belly pan everywhere else. There is also 4 plastic ones in the the fender wells. 2 on each side.
03-02-2012, 08:58 AM
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Having the car up at the front will help drain out all the oil as the drain plug is at the rear left hand side of the engine Mine is a 2.7T Not sure about the other engine
Just changed the oil in mine this morning
I think for the first time having it up on ramps would make it better for you until you get to find out where everything goes IMO
Just changed the oil in mine this morning
I think for the first time having it up on ramps would make it better for you until you get to find out where everything goes IMO
03-02-2012, 02:47 PM
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No need for ramps with the AR. Just put it in L4 and there is plenty of room. Drain plug is toward the front of the pan, so the rear slant means that all the old oil won't drain out and you'll leave about 1/2 qt in there. No need for new drain plug, but the crush washer should be replaced.
Only fiddely part of the whole job is getting the belly pan back in position to reinstall. BTW: There are two different length belly pan twist pins. Black and silver. The 3 black ones go through the engine and tranny belly pan where they meet. Silver are for single layer of belly pan everywhere else. There is also 4 plastic ones in the the fender wells. 2 on each side.
Only fiddely part of the whole job is getting the belly pan back in position to reinstall. BTW: There are two different length belly pan twist pins. Black and silver. The 3 black ones go through the engine and tranny belly pan where they meet. Silver are for single layer of belly pan everywhere else. There is also 4 plastic ones in the the fender wells. 2 on each side.