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EGT Sensor Replacement

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Old 05-16-2011, 01:44 PM
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Default EGT Sensor Replacement

Hey Every One,

Just had my 03 2.7 flashed by EPL, found car is in limp mode due to bad EGT sensor (Vag Code 17866 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236) short to ground - P1458 - 35 - 10 Intermittent)

So I ordered the ECS EGT kit - replacement seems simple enough...Driver side looks tough to access...anyone done one and have any Tips and suggestions ?

Not sure how long I've been in limp mode ...sheeesh...cant wait to feel the diff !
Old 05-18-2011, 08:16 AM
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replacing the Driversside EGTS is a friggin' pain in the donkey ***. I've been working on cars for 15+ years and it was one of the more frustrating jobs I've done. I'd rather do a complete timing job than the drivers EGTS.

That said, most guys cut a 17MM open ended wrench in half and put a notch in the cut end of the wrench. Then go from below, first try and reach up and loosen the EGTS probe nut with just the wrench. If that doesn't work some will run a string up and through the notch on the wrench and then pull on the string while below the car.

I tried all those things and none worked. The simpliest way (IMHO) is:

1.) Remove Secondary Air Injection Pump to allow TOPSIDE hand access to probe.
2.) CUT braided wire close to probe.
3.) Grab end of probe sticking out of exhaust (~3-4") and bend it back and forth about 30 times. It will snap off flush to the nut that holds it to the exhaust manifold.
4.) Once that is done you can just slip a 3/8" 17MM short socket over the nut and loosen it with a simple 3/8" ratchet. You may want to use a extension/swivel.
5.) Don't forget to pull the remaining piece of probe out of the exhaust once the retaining nut is off.


It all boils down to how stuck the nut is. If it's not bad the open ended wrench will work. Mine was REALLY stuck and I needed the extra torque of a socket/ratchet to get it loose. Figures the passenger side (the easy one to get to) was finger loose for me. *DOH*
pay attention to the routing of the driversside sensor probe when you re-install. It's best to route it how it was routed from the factory. There's not much (if any) extra length on the probe to route it however you feel like.

*EDIT*
actually, I think you want a thin-walled flare wrench, not a standard open ended wrench. THere's NO clearance around the nut and the flare wrench works well.
Old 05-18-2011, 08:21 AM
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Hi,

Thanks for the reply....I have a 17mm crows foot line wrench...not sure if it will fit in there....removal of the air pump sounds like the way to go..snapping off the probe as well. I'll let ya know how it goes !

Regards,

Dennis
Old 05-18-2011, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 03 Cobalt allroad
Hi,

Thanks for the reply....I have a 17mm crows foot line wrench...not sure if it will fit in there....removal of the air pump sounds like the way to go..snapping off the probe as well. I'll let ya know how it goes !

Regards,

Dennis
If by crows foot you mean just the open ended head that connects to a ratchet, that won't work. the head is too big/thick. Before you start tearing it apart, pick up a thin wall flare nut wrench to have just in case you need it. You can always return it.
Old 05-18-2011, 08:38 AM
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yep thats what I meant....on my way to get a thin wall LOL....thanks !
Old 05-19-2011, 12:02 PM
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Going to the Indy Tuesday Morning - I attempted to do the EGT---- biggest PITA i have every seen...I would rather to a timing belt service while covered in fire ants !
Old 05-21-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 Cobalt allroad
I would rather to a timing belt service while covered in fire ants!
That's automotive poetry right there. I feel like I know exactly what level of PITA you're talking about.
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