Coolant leak
07-08-2014, 08:21 AM
#1
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Coolant leak
My 2004 has a slow coolant leak I cant find.
I replaced the expansion tank because it was looking old; I never see any water anywhere but I do smell it. Probably putting in 2 cups of fluid every couple of weeks. The car has never overheated and runs great. 92k miles.
Thoughts?
I replaced the expansion tank because it was looking old; I never see any water anywhere but I do smell it. Probably putting in 2 cups of fluid every couple of weeks. The car has never overheated and runs great. 92k miles.
Thoughts?
07-08-2014, 09:24 AM
#3
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2.4t auto. have no idea where the coolant is going; have never seen a drip anywhere, just know I have to add every once in awhile and can smell it sometimes.
I do my own oil changes and most of the work on the car myself, so know how to turn a wrench; cant find anything wet though.
I do my own oil changes and most of the work on the car myself, so know how to turn a wrench; cant find anything wet though.
07-08-2014, 09:35 AM
#4
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Do you mean 2.7T or the 2.5TDI?
If it's the 2.7T it could be the secondary water pump. It is located in the valley of the engine so when it leaks it just sits there and you don't really see any drips anywhere. It is kind of a pain to get to though. Here's a pic of mine when I replaced it. The picture is from the front and you can see the driver's side intake runners. The pump is in the center with the hoses coming off and you can see the dried coolant in the valley from the leak.
If it's the 2.7T it could be the secondary water pump. It is located in the valley of the engine so when it leaks it just sits there and you don't really see any drips anywhere. It is kind of a pain to get to though. Here's a pic of mine when I replaced it. The picture is from the front and you can see the driver's side intake runners. The pump is in the center with the hoses coming off and you can see the dried coolant in the valley from the leak.
07-09-2014, 08:00 PM
#6
Its not a bad job, took me about 5 hours as I was in no rush.
Grab a heap of hose clamps, the originals are not reusable, and you have to unplug a heap of lines to remove the manifold. The inlet manifold gaskets are cheap to buy. Be careful unplugging the PCV valve, the hose on the back is brittle after 10 years and if you break it, the spider hose is all one assembly which is expensive ($250-$300) which is ridiculous for a set of plastic hoses and $50 PCV valve.
There is also a kit available from some of the aftermarket suppliers that extends the hoses so you can mount the pump somewhere else in case it leaks again. I figured if it took 10 years the first time won't be my problem the next time.
Grab a heap of hose clamps, the originals are not reusable, and you have to unplug a heap of lines to remove the manifold. The inlet manifold gaskets are cheap to buy. Be careful unplugging the PCV valve, the hose on the back is brittle after 10 years and if you break it, the spider hose is all one assembly which is expensive ($250-$300) which is ridiculous for a set of plastic hoses and $50 PCV valve.
There is also a kit available from some of the aftermarket suppliers that extends the hoses so you can mount the pump somewhere else in case it leaks again. I figured if it took 10 years the first time won't be my problem the next time.
07-09-2014, 08:44 PM
#7
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I took a flashlight today after I got home and took off the plastic covers and looked around the manifold, etc as well as I could and wasn't able to see any goo like that... do you think when yours was bad you were able to see all the burned coolant in there before you took everything apart.
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07-09-2014, 10:35 PM
#8
Yes- hard to see with a torch so I had a little LED light on a stem, like a 'book reading light' so I could put the light in through one of the gaps to illuminate under the inlet manifold and could see the little puddles of coolant.
the other way to test if its the pump is that this pump only operates when the turbos are hot and the engine has been turned off, they provide cooling to prevent heat soak. So - go for a 'spirited drive', when everything is hot, turn the car off somewhere with a slight hill just do the front of the car is higher than the back and on concrete or somewhere where you can see under the car. Grab a cold drink and wait 5 minutes. If after a couple of minutes a small drip appears at the rear of the engine on the ground, that's the pump leaking when running.
If not -you may have a leak somewhere else
the other way to test if its the pump is that this pump only operates when the turbos are hot and the engine has been turned off, they provide cooling to prevent heat soak. So - go for a 'spirited drive', when everything is hot, turn the car off somewhere with a slight hill just do the front of the car is higher than the back and on concrete or somewhere where you can see under the car. Grab a cold drink and wait 5 minutes. If after a couple of minutes a small drip appears at the rear of the engine on the ground, that's the pump leaking when running.
If not -you may have a leak somewhere else
07-10-2014, 12:30 PM
#9
I do not understand this:
Audi has fanastic hose clamps. Stainless worm gear drive on the smaller and the spring steel ear type on the coolant hoses are better than the parts store stuff. It's about the right tools. Get the hose clamp pliers that work with the Audi clamps.
Audi has fanastic hose clamps. Stainless worm gear drive on the smaller and the spring steel ear type on the coolant hoses are better than the parts store stuff. It's about the right tools. Get the hose clamp pliers that work with the Audi clamps.
07-10-2014, 12:33 PM
#10
AudiWorld Member
I do not understand this:
Audi has fanastic hose clamps. Stainless worm gear drive on the smaller and the spring steel ear type on the coolant hoses are better than the parts store stuff. It's about the right tools. Get the hose clamp pliers that work with the Audi clamps.
Audi has fanastic hose clamps. Stainless worm gear drive on the smaller and the spring steel ear type on the coolant hoses are better than the parts store stuff. It's about the right tools. Get the hose clamp pliers that work with the Audi clamps.
