STL_allroad

Does the updated oil cap really help that much? Where does all the excess pressure come from?

rylis

Thanks for your inputs guys. I really do appreciate them all. Today I'm going to replace timing belt and check front camshaft seals for leaking. If you read all the forum you notice that my valve cover gaskets was replaced twice and I can assure you that there is no leak!!! I do hope to make some pic of my car to show how does it looks like underneath and find out are them camshaft seals my oil leak cause!!!

alywyn01AR

I am having the same issues, I am already noting the pressure oil leaks due to sludge from (gasp) regular oil being run in the engine. There is significant sludge and the synthetic comes out dirty on the dip stick, is there a cleaner I can run though the engine until I can get time to take it apart further? Ive seen cautions put on the forums about the oil system cleaners and these engines.

Thanks!

thejulex

you could use seafoam, follow heir instructions for adding it to oil before normal oil change but don't drive as much as they tell you (I think it is 100 miles before change) but shorten that to like 25 or so and definitely DO NOT go hard on engine to avoid turbos spinning up. That should dissolve some of that sludge.

alywyn01AR

Thank you very much, I'll go grab some and some fresh oil and a new filter. Much appreciated!

robby777

Lubro moly has some great cleaner products I use every oil change

sobyx1

I believe this happened on my Allroad with the spider pvc breather hose getting clogged. If it causes oil leaks as the gaskets fail are they basically as good as blown and need replacement along with the breather hose? Ie Camshaft and valve cover?

PetrolBear

If the octogon pipe was clogged you can have anywhere oil leaks.
Last year I had this... leaks at both turbos (seals inside gone!) valve gaskets + electrohydraulic actuators, half moons, plus, the O-rings at the front and back of the valve shafts. At least. I cannot recall exactly but I had a LOT OF leaks. Additionally, it was strongly advised to change several waterpipes due to oil contamination. Now my oil/water pipes are 80-90% new...and cost a LOT. So change your octogon pipe as a whole and check for leaks. Aftermath proplems (waterpipe damages) can be serious.

PetrolBear

I do not know the seafoam but in general, such materials are very risky to the turbos!
My advise that worked: ride on cheaper (but specs matching) 5w40 oil in a normal way avoiding racing style driving, and change oil+filter after 1000km (600mile) at least twice or rather three times. Yes it is a bit work but it worths. My car had the same problem after purchase and it did helped a lot. Practically, it cleaned up the whole system. Hence, you can extract the bottom oil pan. There should be a lot of sludge (half inch dick at least).
If you have finances to do, I advise to change the big water cooler as well! It was also full with sludge. Afterwards, the oil (and engine) temperature dropped 10-12 Celsius. It means, driving the fullsynth 5w50 my oil temp never exceeded the 120 mark (at 30-35celsius on the autobahn, driving at 130-160kmh/h with many accelerations)
The oil temp should normally show around 100-103 (at the left white mark from the center or the needle slightly exceeds of... 0,5mm) if everything is clean an OK - and you run on 5w-50 fullsynth.

Lastly, 5W-50 fullsynth oil (Mobil1) drops arund 5-7 celsius of the engine temperature, compared to a good brand of halfsynth 5w-40