Brake pad change question
01-10-2024, 12:14 PM
#11
AudiWorld Super User
This “replace not resurface” rotors has been a German vehicle “feature” for quite a few years. I know Mercedes and BMW have the same requirement. Personally - IMHO, YMMV — it’s about Added Dealer Profit (ADP) via the Service Department. Unless you are an enthusiast like many of our members are, most people with high-end German vehicles just take their cars back to the selling dealer for service needs.
I was quoted something over $1,000 for replacing my rear pads, rotors & whatever else is required. If I went to an indie shop and specc’d the same type of non-OEM parts, but not higher-end parts, I would guess I would trim between $250 & $300 off the dealers price.
And, again, this is my opinion (based on doing some research) and it may not be exact based on your area & labor rates.
— John
I was quoted something over $1,000 for replacing my rear pads, rotors & whatever else is required. If I went to an indie shop and specc’d the same type of non-OEM parts, but not higher-end parts, I would guess I would trim between $250 & $300 off the dealers price.
And, again, this is my opinion (based on doing some research) and it may not be exact based on your area & labor rates.
— John
01-10-2024, 04:45 PM
#12
Club AutoUnion
01-10-2024, 08:05 PM
#13
AudiWorld Super User
B9 S 330x22 and B9 RS 330x22 use the same pad set. And same size rotors, but different p/ns because the RS rotors are constructed differently.
$142 MSRP rev K for A/S 330x22: https://parts.audiusa.com/p/74743107/8w0615601k.html
$945 MSRP rev G for RS 330x22: https://parts.audiusa.com/p/71653419/8w0615601g.html
But damn, that's a lot of extra cost for some extra holes.
$142 MSRP rev K for A/S 330x22: https://parts.audiusa.com/p/74743107/8w0615601k.html
$945 MSRP rev G for RS 330x22: https://parts.audiusa.com/p/71653419/8w0615601g.html
But damn, that's a lot of extra cost for some extra holes.
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Nikon1 (01-11-2024)
01-11-2024, 06:12 AM
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Rotors usually good for 100K miles.
I just replace the pads. I have been known to grind the outer lip of the rotor, inside and outside. Recognize that’s pushing the wear limit, but there’s a lot of meat left on the rotor. If you’re tracking the car YMMV.
01-11-2024, 06:16 AM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Do NOT push pistons back w/o opening bleeder
Always open the bleeder during pushback to dump oldest fluid. That way you won’t push old fluid up the pipes and possibly booger the abs pump.
After installing new pads and rotors if you wish then pressure bleed. Some people have access to computer to activate the abs pump but I’ve not had to do that.
After installing new pads and rotors if you wish then pressure bleed. Some people have access to computer to activate the abs pump but I’ve not had to do that.
01-11-2024, 06:20 AM
#16
AudiWorld Super User
Bleed the caliper and look at the fluid! In fact there is a conductance tool to measure h2O of old fluid…u calibrate it with new fluid. Two yea4s and the old fluid is usually watered, enough to cause brake fade on repeated hard track braking if not alpine descent.
01-11-2024, 11:19 AM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
Say what? I should think if there were ANY chance of that happening, Audi might make some sort of mention in the repair manual. As far as the "oldest fluid" needing to be relieved - I can't see how that concept is going to cause any detriment to performance. Sorry, definitely in the camp of not opening the screw - never have had an issue.
01-11-2024, 11:52 AM
#18
AudiWorld Member
There are many methods of doing brakes. Im not worried about a little old fluid going in reverse since my fluid is changed every 2 yrs. Nevertheless, each of the mentioned methods work, just a matter if you want to do it that way. As for brake parts, just go to Rockauto.com for reasonable priced aftermarket or FCP if you want to have lifetime warranty on those parts. I don't keep cars after the warranty is over, so I don't need lifetime warranty. But for those that keep their cars for 100k mi or is hard on brakes, that is the place to get parts. RS parts have a bigger premium in pricing and limited sources. For the S models, much more options.
01-11-2024, 06:27 PM
#19
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Well, I got annoyed and gave up. The triple square bit I bought doesn’t fit in the space with the ratchet attached, I couldn’t get my breaker bar on the caliper bolt because the jack was in the way so stupidly I put a jack stand under the bushing area of the lower control arm so I could move the jack. The stand slipped down toward the middle of the control arm and when it flexed it looks like it tore the bushing because some oil came out. Now I know why the dealer quotes so high on these jobs. This is the first time in 40 years I’ve given up on brakes. I’ll just bring them to a shop and have them do ot. I suppose I’ll have to buy a new bushing too.
01-12-2024, 06:47 AM
#20
AudiWorld Super User