HoustonA5

I just took my 09 A5 S-line in for it's 15k service (even though it's only got 10K on it, the time limit has come). The dealer service manager (Reggie, who's awesome, btw) told me the synthetic that they use needs to only be changed every 10K (at regular service intervals).

Since I only drive about 5K a year, it doesn't really affect me, but it's an interesting notion.
Also, I asked them to flash the ECM (and update, if necessary), which reset the shifting patterns and everything. The car is MUCH smoother in shifts now. I highly recommend that if you have a good relationship with your service manager, ask them to do this.

Yuri (my sales guy) and Reggie (service manager) at Momentum Audi are super guys, and always go the extra mile. I highly recommend them.

mentodan

Hey HoustonA5,

about the ECM flash ans "The car is MUCH smoother in shifts now", could you detail a bit? to what extent does the computer handle the gearbox?

I have a manual 2009 3.2 a5 ~13k, and always thought it pretty hard to shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd, even if I pay super extra attention on the clutch, especially during cold weather.

Hobbes, thanks a lot for the DIY oil change, really great and useful(especially for where to find a proper filter)...I did not do any oil change @10k, planning one now @13k to learn, even if 15k service is close.

Have you done stuff like seafoam in intake manifold through vacuum line before an oil change? in order to try removing some of the carbon buildup on the intake valves? If yes, using your DIY oil change picture #8, could you point which vacuum line you used to suck in seafoam?

many thanks

Imola Ghost

Seafoam will not remove the carbon build up issue the FSI engine has.

Mad Matt

That is exactly what I do also. I have a burn in procedure for that first 1000 miles. I use it for all new engines on cars, bikes, whatever, and I seldom ever have any serious engine problems.

Oil changes are cheap and engine repairs are not.

Huey52

I too change at 1k miles to be assured any break-in metallics are removed. Then 5k, 10k, etc.

Mobil 1 and similar synthetics are most definitely high duration oils, but wear contaminants are the issue.

btw: Note that the 2.0T has a top mounted, self-contained filter (vs. canister), but otherwise same procedure. Always check your owner's manual for oil pan capacity and manually check with a dipstick after refilling (had to aftermarket buy one for my A5). It's always better to go less and top up than to overfill.

QuattroWerks

+1 and best to use "Audi-approved" oil to avoid any headaches:

http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/....0023.File.pdf