hubturn

This bulletin should answer that question.

Pope

I purchased a new switch with the three posts and still nothing. I guess it is in the gauge.
Only had the car a week so I am still working my way around it. Figuring how it remove the gauge panel is going to be fun. Is there a tried and true factory shop manual that I should be aware of that has all the electrical wiring and locations?

Pope

OK, in trying to replace the temp sensor, I broke off the brittle cambox breather tube. Parts store has one, but its $110! I searched the forum and found a repair for that part. But they tell you to use radiator hose. Gas hose is better cause it can stand up to the gases better that a radiator hose can. The radiator hose will flatten out cause of the petroleum distillates in the vapors.
Gates hose #CS032510 is the correct hose to use.

Get an exacto knife and slowly score the covering on the end pieces, to remove the heat sealed tubing that is on the end pieces. In the third pic, you can see the covering that comes off. Attack the new hose end to one of the plastic ends and use a zip tie to hold in on. Pull tight and clip the end. install the hose into the hard to reach place first. Do the hose cutting on the cam box last as it is easiest to work there last.

Total cost, $3

hubturn

Try here. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/aud...998-ebahn.html Also there is one on ebay. The instrument panel is not that tough to get out. A couple of screws to remove the fairing around the steering column, then a couple of screws are exposed that hold in the instrument panel. Then the instrument panel can come foreward, but it may take a bit of maneuvering. A set of connectors make all the electrical attachments and can be separated.

hubturn

Here is the first part of the test for your problem. Hope Bentley's doesn't mind since I've advised you to buy the manual. Basically, you are going to perform a test at the connector that goes to the sensor. A Fluke 83 is a high quality digital multimeter. The high quality part is accuracy and the 10 Meg ohm impedence, which means you won't fry any computers by adding voltage to the circuit during the test. The voltage stabilizer is a similar test and I'll send that if you need it. The gauge test requires a specialty tool and my guess is it is cheaper to replace the gauge unless someone know where to get a VW 1301 cheap.

Pope

I do think it is in the gauge. Might be a loose wire. My radiator fan does turn on when it is needed so that is the important thing.