Recommended CV boot kits/source?
#1
Recommended CV boot kits/source?
So while putting the studs on I noticed an outer front boot has a tear in it and I'd like to replace it. Looking at the literature I need an inner and outer boot, plus what looks like a self sticking single sided foam seal shaped like a star for the inboard joint, plus I need to know what the sealant Audi refers to as "D-3" is and I also need the metal bands - two small and two large as I'll do both boots on this axle.
So:
inner boot/outer boot
4 metal bands
1 self sticking seal for inner
identify what "D-3" is.
I've recently done a few on my Vanagon and there are good and bad boots all sold at the same price. So I'm hoping someone here knows the difference and can steer me. Thanks in advance!
Is removing the axle easy like normal ones? You just loosen the bolts and pull it off, or is there a press fit on splines at the outer end?
DougM
So:
inner boot/outer boot
4 metal bands
1 self sticking seal for inner
identify what "D-3" is.
I've recently done a few on my Vanagon and there are good and bad boots all sold at the same price. So I'm hoping someone here knows the difference and can steer me. Thanks in advance!
Is removing the axle easy like normal ones? You just loosen the bolts and pull it off, or is there a press fit on splines at the outer end?
DougM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
honestly Doug, save yourself time and money, go to autozone, get an axle for $80 with a life time warranty. D-3 is a seal that's used by VW and Audi to keep the grease in place between the flange and the joint, your new axle will come wit one (iirc).
#4
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If you do relace the boots make sure you buy CV Boot Kits. The "kits" will include the boots, grease, and bands.
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...18@CV Boot Kit
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...18@CV Boot Kit
#5
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Assuming all '90s & Cabs are the same, I merely wanted to point out that the bolts that attach the axel to the flange are not torx bolts. They are a triple square and if you use a torx bit they will round out. I got mine at NAPA for under ten bucks. Hit the bit to set it in the bolt, then put your socket over it to remove the bolt. Figure on at least one or two going bad and have a couple of replacements on hand. Dealership item for a couple of bucks.
#6
Thanks for the info on the shafts and the triple square. Happily, I already have the bit from my Vanagon, which has similar CVs and shafts.
And on the full rebuilt shaft, I have that sickness that makes me prefer to open them up and repack with a synthetic grease I prefer, etc. The prebuilt shafts would probably last years, but I get a visceral satisfaction out of that stuff. It's a messy job for sure and one where once you are set up to pound the CV joints off and have the space setup for regreasing and rebooting it makes sense to do more than one. So I'll do the front two axles together, then at some point (probably summer - heh) I'll do the rears as they can't be far behind. One comment about this is a suggestion that you have a scheme to make SURE you reassemble the joint exactly as you found it - right down to the orientation of the inner cage, and which ***** go where. I've had a few make noise after repacks and I'm convinced the slight tolerance differences between wear of ***** and cages mean you restart some wear for no reason.
Thanks for the link - even cheaper than Vanagon boot kits and they had the ignition switch for the Vanagon I need as well! Now I just need to find other stuff to get my order up to the free shipping level....
DougM
And on the full rebuilt shaft, I have that sickness that makes me prefer to open them up and repack with a synthetic grease I prefer, etc. The prebuilt shafts would probably last years, but I get a visceral satisfaction out of that stuff. It's a messy job for sure and one where once you are set up to pound the CV joints off and have the space setup for regreasing and rebooting it makes sense to do more than one. So I'll do the front two axles together, then at some point (probably summer - heh) I'll do the rears as they can't be far behind. One comment about this is a suggestion that you have a scheme to make SURE you reassemble the joint exactly as you found it - right down to the orientation of the inner cage, and which ***** go where. I've had a few make noise after repacks and I'm convinced the slight tolerance differences between wear of ***** and cages mean you restart some wear for no reason.
Thanks for the link - even cheaper than Vanagon boot kits and they had the ignition switch for the Vanagon I need as well! Now I just need to find other stuff to get my order up to the free shipping level....
DougM
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#8
87 Wolfsburg automatic. Its in Georgia and I am still trying to figure a way to get it here. I sold my Vanagon Syncro last year and found I missed having a goofy box on wheels, so got this one. The Sube conversions are well regarded, though I'm a traditionalist and will keep the WBX engine until it tanks.
DougM
DougM
#10
Syncro was cool and chic, no doubt. But it wasn't nearly as offroad capable as I'd hoped for a 4 person self supporting rugged vehicle. Switched to a roof top tent on a Toyota LandCruiser wagon. Wolfsburg will be a cool and chic road trip vehicle and getaway with my wife with room for bikes, etc. Simpler to maintain.
DougM
DougM
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