So, tried to crack the crank bolt loose on my B3. jammed/locked the pulley, had big bar & socket
03-14-2009, 10:55 AM
#1
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So, tried to crack the crank bolt loose on my B3. jammed/locked the pulley, had big bar & socket
on the bolt, heaving on it, feels like everything is going good, starts to turn but then I realize it actually didn't break loose!?
With the big pulley locked and turning the bolt I can see that what's actually happening is the geared pulley for the timing belt is turning (along with the crank) but the bolt isn't becoming any more un-done.
Have I sheared the key on the big crank pulley?
I'm going to try stuffing #1 with a rag to see if I can jam the piston/crank so that at least I can get this **** apart.
Any other suggestions or ideas?
With the big pulley locked and turning the bolt I can see that what's actually happening is the geared pulley for the timing belt is turning (along with the crank) but the bolt isn't becoming any more un-done.
Have I sheared the key on the big crank pulley?
I'm going to try stuffing #1 with a rag to see if I can jam the piston/crank so that at least I can get this **** apart.
Any other suggestions or ideas?
03-14-2009, 11:12 AM
#3
well there is one way but it must be approached VERY carefully...
take the correct 3/4" drive socket and a med length breaker bar that will reach the inner frame rail on the left side when socket is on the crank bolt and turn crank clock-wise until handle is at the 12:30 or 1 o'clock position. Lay a short length of 2x4 parallel to and on the the top of frame rail. Hit the starter quickly on/off for about half-a-second. It will SLAM the breaker bar against the 2x4/frame rail spinnng the breaker bar clockwise which causes the crank nut to slam HARD counter-clockwise breaking it free. I've had to do this 3 or 4 times over the decades and it ALWAYS worked, but there's the potential for damage if the socket slips off or if it's not done correctly. I've never attempted it even once that I wasn't scared to death I was gonna break something. Don't like doing it or even recommending it but sometimes there's just no other way. "Drastic problems require drastic solutions." This has served me well even when jumping up & down on a 4ft breaker bar with a 24" cheater bar tubular extension with car in gear and e-brake applied wouldn't touch the crank bolt.
If it works you can thank me. If you break something I'll deny even suggesting it and tell you what a hair-brained idea that was ;-)
If it works you can thank me. If you break something I'll deny even suggesting it and tell you what a hair-brained idea that was ;-)
03-14-2009, 11:35 AM
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Another way that needs to be approached carefully....
Put the trans in to 3rd or 4th gear with the e-brake cranked, and use the largest breaker bar you have. This will prevent anything from spinning but try to not 'hump' the breaker bar (applying pressure on and off), more so give it steady pressure to avoid any un-needed stress on the trans.
I have alos heard of shops removing the starter and jamming the flywheel where the starter gear engages... Having never tried this (or thinking of anything you can 'jam' it with without causing damage) I probably wouldnt venture down this route.
I have alos heard of shops removing the starter and jamming the flywheel where the starter gear engages... Having never tried this (or thinking of anything you can 'jam' it with without causing damage) I probably wouldnt venture down this route.
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03-14-2009, 11:46 AM
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Yea I was going to say, impact wont do it. In fact the last one I have done out of the car..
We had two guys, 2 breaker bars, both over 200 lbs, jumping up and down on either side of the crank. Finally broke loose after a lot of cursing and jumping...
03-14-2009, 11:47 AM
#10
Nope, never, old Audi tech told me the starter-bash method and it's all I've ever done...
after jumping up & down on a 6ft breaker bar assembly. I've later found evidence of hi-strength LocTite (red) on those threads from the factory tho they probably use Wurth/Bosch thread-locker products rather than LocTite.